Land is purchased for our 14 X 24 !

[Arlynn]

We still have some decisions to make but we have our site chosen.  Our land is 1.25 acres and came with spring water, septic system, electric ity hook up and phone line pole.  At one time there was a cabin there.  Previous owner pushed it over the hill.  We have massive clean up to do on the hillside.

We plan to build on the old foundation site.  There's no block or concrete other than what appears to be remains of former pier posts.  We're just dealing with dirt....well, actually shale.  We need to purchase an auger.

I have pictures but don't see how to upload them into the message box.  I'll be back.

[MountainDon]

photos how to
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=11663.0

[Arlynn]

THANK YOU   

[Arlynn]

I'm back and will give posting pictures a try.

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[Arlynn]

The first picture is a top view of the old foundation.

The last picture is looking up to the foundation site.

The second picture is looking to the top of the property.  It
does go into the woods about 50 feet.  Where you see the
pine tree in clear view begins a level area over the hill.  Nice
place for another cabin someday.

Third picture is a creek at the bottom of our hill.  Great fishing!

[Arlynn]

I have a problem accepting the pier post design of having the post set on the pre-formed concrete pyramid with a steel fitting to nail into the end of the 4x4 post. This seems to be a weak link, both because the very end of the 4x4 tends to splinter when nailed that close to the end, leaving it susceptible to moisture, and secondly steel rusts. I have used a method of driving 12 penny nails halfway into the 4x4 where it is to be buried. I dig the hole below frost line, put in 4 inches of gravel, pour in 2 or 3 inches of cement, place the spiked post in, and fill the hole with cement 3 to 4 inches over grade. I have used this method for a pole building garage, and two large sheds. I removed the one shed after about 12 years and there was no deterioration of the posts and they were almost impossible to remove. From an engineering standpoint is this an acceptable way to build. Please comment.         Ar

[MountainDon]

From an engineering standpoint is this an acceptable way to build. Please comment.         Ar

If it is for a habitable building I don't think you will find a licensed PE (professional engineer) who knows his structural stuff who will give an okay on that.


The pyramidal blocks might work for a temporary building, but then how does one anchor it against stiff winds? And it is a pivot or hinge point.

For a pole barn it should work, although myself I wonder about gravel in the bottom of the hole. If not well tamped it may be asking for settling. If well tamped in my mind there arises the question of why. The standard theory is that the gravel will let the water drain... to me it is just as likely the spaces around the gravel gives water a place to collect.

Have you checked with the local AHJ (authority having jurisdiction) to see what requirements there may be with respect to building codes and/or planning and zoning? Also what is the frost depth where this is to be built? You mentioned shale... is this bedrock or ...? 

[Arlynn]

Your thoughts on the pyramidal blocks I agree with. Your thoughts on the gravel also have merit. The reason that gravel was used in this location is because the ground is mostly red clay and there was muddy water in the holes which needed separated from the cement. As I stated these buildings have been up 12 years. There has been no settling. The garage is 22 ft. At the peak of the Gambrel roof and has .weathered 70 mph. winds. The new building site is not clay ground however and a 12 inch pad at the base I think will suffice. The ground there is sand stone.