ACQ lumber

Started by PEG688, March 11, 2006, 12:04:54 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

PEG688

 Here's some thing to ponder.

 Yesterday I talked with our local building insp.  We had a nailing / shearwall insp before we covered the walls,,

 The question can up about ACQ because on the kit house we are assembing / building  CCA plate stock was used , which is still ok to do but he was concerned that it might be ACQ , quick check of the stock lumber stamp confirmed it was CCA , ok that being said  more chatting about ACQ lumber.


  A few builders here, Whidbey Isl. , have noticed alot of corrision on foundation bolts and the 3"x3" bearing plates being used ,  the bolts and plates are Hot Dipped Gavl.  the type recommended for use with ACQ.

 The insp. said he was just at a three day code conference where ACQ lumber and this corrision was informly , I took it , talked about . Seems it might be a problem.

 Our short term sollution is going to be to use Cedar or Fir , with a approved barrier , IE Grace  / Vycor or 30 # felt between the cement and the plate stock.

At least two other builders are doing this currently , time will tell who is / was right.  

  I'm not sure what we will do for exterior deck joist and posts that need to be fastened with nails , ??  Maybe stainless steel , not sure .  Not sure about ZMAX hangers either ?? Wrap the ACQ with Vycor ??  A lot of time, read $$$, in my thinking , the tape is $$ The labor is $$ guess who pays that ?

 Just what I've heard and seen , here on Whidbey. Might be the salt air in combo with the ACQ ????

PEG      
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

JRR

#1
Thanks for the info.

I was afraid this story (about galvanized hangers) wasn't "fully out".  It seemed like a too simple a fix (double galvanizing) for a problem that got so much early press.

I don't know if it is totally effective, but I have been doing the following:
1. As Simpson hangers are purchased, butter the wood contact surfaces with a thin layer of (PL brand) poly roof sealer.  This will cure to the touch overnight.
2.  As the connection is made, apply a fresh layer of poly roof sealer to the wood surface itself.
3.  If it is a joint that I'm really concerned with, I also stick the nails/screws down into the cartridge nozzle so they will be coated.

This makes a joint that looks water resistant (and sometimes messy).

But I've been getting a bit lazy recently.  With your posted info, I will resume the full procedure in hope that it does some good.