Portable SawMill service? Who'd be interested?

[curlewdave]

You might want to consider a note to clients about blade cost replacement if you hit some metal and lose a blade.  Also, if you have ,or they, have  a gas-powered pressure  washer it would come in handy to clean up real dirty logs.  That way you could get 800-1000bf/ blade... Just a thought from the cutting I've done.  Good luck!!

[OlJarhead]

What kind of mill were you doing that on Dave?  I don't think I can get much over 200bf a band on my saw.

[curlewdave]

A Woodmizer HD-40, with a debarker option...  I always take along a REALstiff broom to brush off the dirt from the infeed side.  usually don't use the debarker, tho.  If you can keep the bark clean as possible the blades will really last, but I  have had times in old yellow fir out here on the coast when 200 bf would have been a bonus...That danged dirt just destroys the blades.  If you have a lube option it can extend things as well.  I think you spend time on the Forestry Forum, and they have plenty of great guys with good suggestions.   

[OlJarhead]

A Woodmizer HD-40, with a debarker option...  I always take along a REALstiff broom to brush off the dirt from the infeed side.  usually don't use the debarker, tho.  If you can keep the bark clean as possible the blades will really last, but I  have had times in old yellow fir out here on the coast when 200 bf would have been a bonus...That danged dirt just destroys the blades.  If you have a lube option it can extend things as well.  I think you spend time on the Forestry Forum, and they have plenty of great guys with good suggestions.

Yup, that's me   I'm gleaning all I can from them!

[OlJarhead]

Thought I would share this with you all too   I'm getting pretty excited about this!


Center basket installed to transport fuel cans, tools, blades etc.

When in use these things must be removed of course, but this allows me to place various items in the trailer to transport it.

Another look.  Personally I love this idea!  The expanded metal allows sawdust to fall through.




The bumper   Ready for lights.


Tomorrow I'll update with tonight's progress and whatever we manage to get done tomorrow (like mounting the head I hope).

Basically, I'm getting excited!

[OlJarhead]

The trailer is almost ready for the road.  Meanwhile we continue to use it to test out the mods we need to make in order to make it user friendly off the ground like this (since WM designed it to be run on the ground).

That small log we picked up and set on the mill but soon there will be a winch with ramps that will roll the logs onto the mill.

By mid spring those who are interested should be able to see the mill in the Okanogan and for those who go to the Extensions land owners events in June (23rd I think) we'll be there milling up stuff so you can see what it's like. 

[Yonderosa]

Just came across this thread.  Very cool!

If I ever get the Lightning tree down and figure out a way to get a few others out of the woods I will be in touch.

Keep us up to date and let us know the details of the demonstration day.  Is Ron W. the Forester?

[OlJarhead]

Action shot!

I'm loving having the mill up on the trailer and have used it a lot since moving to my place.  Still need to get the lights done, ramps done and the winches done.

As for moving trees, you're not so far away I couldn't bring the tractor over to skid them out to the mill for you.  Heck, depending on how far you are it's possible I could just drive it over but if your close to Crawfish I'd probably trailer it to save fuel (not sure how much that would save though, but it might save 30 minutes since driving the tractor at 10-14mph can be tough on a bouncy dirt road.

Either way, we can skid logs too   Heck, my jeep makes a good skidder too and as long as the ground where the mill will be used is relatively level it can be pulled in close to where the trees are down.

I think I've mentioned before that it's best to mill the tree as soon after falling it as possible so when you plan to get it milled up just schedule the milling to take place the same weekend (if possible) that you fall it.

Things to think about:
1.  Is the tree wider then 24" above the stump?  (Trees are measure at chest height but I like to recommend measuring where you plan to mill also since anything over 24" will need to be slabbed down with a CSM)
2.  What size lumber do you want/need?  I can mill true dimensions (2x4 is really 2x4) or to dimensional standards (1 1/2 x 3 1/2) though I'd mill dimensional stuff 1/16th to 1/8th over size to allow for shrinkage during drying.  I can mill boards as wide as we can get from a 24" wide log (so about 16 to 20 inches roughly) and usually mill the CANT and go straight from there BUT I can quarter saw for those who want the grain to stand up -- that takes a lot longer though!
3.  Where will the mill operate?  Needs to have enough room for the mill and crew (you are part of the crew normally) and truck to pull the mill.  Logs are loaded from the drivers side of the truck/mill so bear that in mind when planning the site.  Ground should be reasonable flat/level though the mill has leveling jacks.
4.  Logs should be staged so they taper the same direction (towards rear of the mill) -- the operator runs the mill from the tongue to the rear from the passenger side of the mill (based on where the truck would be) so the large end of logs should be on the drivers side large end on the tongue side.  The mill will want to be so the logs are staged at the center of the 21 foot bed and about 8 to 10 feet away from where the mill will sit.  I have 10 foot ramps that will be placed from the mill deck to where the logs are and a winch to winch them up onto the deck.  Also a good idea to have the logs sitting on top of 4x4's if possible.  This keeps them off the ground (keeps them from getting anymore dirt on them) and makes them easier to roll onto the ramps/mill etc.
5.  Water:  I'll bring water but if you have a water source please let me know as the mill uses water to keep the blade clean.
6.  Nails:  pull any and all nails you are aware of, broken bands are bad!
7.  trim all branches as flush to the trunk as possible.  A little knob here and there won't matter much but it's best to have the logs as clean and straight as possible.
8.  Drying Lumber:  It takes about 8 weeks to dry pine in the Okanogan if you do it the way I have which is to stack and sticker the lumber and cover it with plastic to dry.  This approach works but isn't the best approach.

I use 3 pallets for 8 foot lumber and 4 for 10 to 12 foot lumber and 1 sticker for every two feet of board plus one on either end (8 foot boards require 5 stickers).  The stickers I use are about 3/4" thick by 1" wide and I get them from a sawmill about 50 miles from me.  They toss and burn any bent of broken sticker (theirs are 8 feet long) and I can pick them up and cut them to useable lengths BUT I'd have to charge if someone wanted them for their lumber and I can't always guarantee I can get them.  Best option is to seek out small mills in your area and see if they do the same thing, next would be to bring a stack of 1x4's that we can rip down on the mill (no charge to countryplans members!) into stickers.  You will need A LOT of stickers.  Figure each row of boards on the pallets represents about 36 to 40 inches in width and 8 foot lengths would make that roughly 24 to 27 board feet per layer so the ten layers in this picture is about 250 board feet and 50 stickers.  That's about 1 to 2 hours worth of milling if things are going well (I can mill up to 200 bf per hour on a good day, maybe even 250 but the mill is rated at 160 -- of course when things aren't going well it might only get 75 to 125 bf per hour).

I'd say to have at least 3 pallets per 500 to 1000 board feet of lumber (1000 is stacking it awfully high though).

This is about 700 bf and about 4 feet tall.  The stickers were made from 1/2" OSB and worked fine.

Try to make sure you have good flat ground for the pallets to sit on and if you have time, plan to make a roof over the stack that extends 18" all around and has a slight peak to shed water.  This would be best but again, plastic/tarping does work.  It's what I've done with all mine.

9.  There will be a lot of bark and sawdust and it will have to dealt with (by you the customer).  Plan to have a spot to move it to during the milling process that will give room to work and of course hook up and tow out the mill when done.
10.  To run the mill I provide the operator (me) and you provide the offbearer (takes the boards off the mill) and onloader (assists in loading logs).  Having an extra hand to help you will make the operation go much better and produce a lot more per hour (when the mill is really going I mill, draw back, mill, draw back etc without pause so the lumber comes off pretty fast!  Having to grab a board and walk it to a pile 20 feet away and put stickers down doesn't give you much time to get back to the mill to get the next board!  Trust me!   When I'm really cranking out the lumber (200+ bf/hr) you'll be hopping!!

Best bet is to have saw horses ready (or a tractor with forks on it) to set the boards as well as a set for the re-useable flitches (the boards cut off the make the CANT which can be milled into stickers or usable lumber).  Having it planned out a bit in advance will save time on milling day   and make it much more fun!


In this picture James is offbearing as soon as Josh finishes the cut.  The pallet wasn't in the best place (best on the opposite side and not in front of the staged logs) but demonstrates the offbearers job a little.  In this case he's just laying them on the big pallet and will restack and sticker when done.  This works fine.


In this one you see the offbearer taking a 'flitch' to the burn pile.  Flitches are the bark ends that I usually try to make too small to be useable (to strip the bark and start the CANT) but some will be such that we can mill 1x3s or larger out of -- band mills can do this and will give you about 30% more lumber out of your logs -- also because of the 1/8" KERF).

These pics show the mill on the ground, it won't be now of course and this makes it better for the offbearer as well as me (the operator).

That ought to do it for now!  I'll try to pop in and post something on guesstimating board footage in a log so you have an idea of how much lumber you might get out of a tree and I encourage all of you in the area to mark June 22nd on your calendars!  I'll be in Okanogan for the Foresters land owners field day (which I can't wait to attend myself!) and you'll get a chance to meet me (since most of you haven't) and see the mill in action too and learn a bunch from the Forester!

Oh and the Forester is Andrew B. Perleberg.

Cheers
Erik

[OlJarhead]

I should add that it's best to mill your lumber before the hot and dry summer months.  If it's too hot and dry the wood will dry too fast and cause a loss to warping etc.  I will mill anytime but best months are now through June IMHO.  July is ok as long as it's the first half of the month, later when it dries out (in my area that is) you would want to keep the wood drying in the shade near a water source I'm told.  Some humidity in the air is good actually.

[OlJarhead]

Maiden Voyage?

Well not exactly, we were just moving the mill back to the shop (next door) so the rest of the metal work could be completed.  Initial testing was done and everything is going great!

First test for REAL milling will be in the Okanogan on the 5th of April, then it's off (if all goes well) to the state police to have it inspected on the 17th of April and then we're in business!

Since I'm working full time Mon-Friday my son's will operate the mill during the week if there is out of town work and I'll run it (possibly with them) on weekends if we get orders.

So far I've had a lot of interest and believe it's very possible this will become a serious venture for my sons and I

Have sawmill, will travel (to VERY remote places too!)

[OlJarhead]

Were almost done!


Just a few things to tidy up and a weekend (this weekend we're going to test it out with several logs at our cabin) and then we're ready to mill lumber for you!

[OlJarhead]

It works!


Anything from 8 inches in diameter (smaller is doable but not recommended unless you really want to pay to have them milled into lumber -- it's just that they aren't very cost affective) to 24" in diameter and 6 feet (shorter is doable but not a lot shorter) to 18 feet -- 18feet is pushing it though!


That's a 16% grade (approximately) and very narrow but we can make it!


I'm very happy with the portability of the mill.  We were able to drag it into our place which isn't the most 'trailer friendly' of places I've been to! lol

[OlJarhead]

http://moseslake.craigslist.org/fgs/3732419783.html
Started posting ads

For CountryPlans forumites rates will be lower

First person to have us do some milling from the forum will get the best possible rate!   I figure I owe the forum just for letting me share our adventure so what better way to pay back your indulgence?

[UK4X4]

Good luck in your endevour !

[OlJarhead]

Thanks!

There is just something about making lumber out of your own trees/logs!  I can't wait to get back and get more done

[OlJarhead]

Received a quote request from someone a few miles from our cabin

[OlJarhead]

Got a few updates done (and coming) on the mill   10hp motor upgrade (faster production on larger logs), 5 gallon water lube system (original was 1 gallon), milling scale (4/4, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4) etc.

Going to test out some of it this weekend (milling 3", 4" and 5/8" material and perhaps some 6x8's if I get the time).  Also meeting a customer in Waukonda

[OlJarhead]

Here I am  


Probably posted a few of these in my cabin thread.  The mill is really doing well!  We're VERY happy with it anyway.


Friend of mine rolling logs onto the mill.  Anything that isn't too big is done faster this way!


10hp!  Gives us 60% greater production they say.  We haven't tested it yet but I'm told it makes a LOT of difference, specially on the longer/bigger stuff.


Brand new and it sounds like a beast!

We'll be milling in Waukonda on the 17th I believe and Leavenworth in June or July.  Also still have plans to be at the Foresters Field Day if anyone is going.

Erik

[OlJarhead]

http://extension.wsu.edu/forestry/Pages/default.aspx
For those interested in meeting us we'll be at the Forester's 'Forest Owners Field Day' in Tonasket on June 22nd.

Address and directions located on the flyer on he Foresters page (link above).

[OlJarhead]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2K1xTY1sNus
Here we are milling in Waukonda this weekend

[OlJarhead]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGXnUTf--bc
Here's another video of us milling.

We're offering an intro rate of $50/hr for Country plans members in our area

Thanks again for everyone's support! 

[OlJarhead]

Been a while!

For those interested I'm starting to look at milling this spring.  I'm also looking at a bigger mill for larger jobs.  A lot of dead trees in the Okanogan need to be milled up soon so I hope to get the mill ready by the thaw.

[glenn kangiser]

Nice video..  I just got mine rebuilt changing from 14" wheels to 16" .... It was easy once I got started but it sat in my shop about 8 months before Whitlock came over and got me motivated.. so it's his fault.   

I am sawing some salvaged beetle damaged logs (only slight damage) that were given to me for getting them off a guys property.  Lumber is so cheap now that .50 a BF is about all that can be had for corral boards as far as I can see.  We have to be careful not to offend the Federal tree gods that protect big industry and union labor so not trying to go into it big.  Something like 70% of the pine here is damaged and dying because of drought and beetles.  Half the mountainsides in the pine forests are dead.

[OlJarhead]

Nice video..  I just got mine rebuilt changing from 14" wheels to 16" .... It was easy once I got started but it sat in my shop about 8 months before Whitlock came over and got me motivated.. so it's his fault.   

I am sawing some salvaged beetle damaged logs (only slight damage) that were given to me for getting them off a guys property.  Lumber is so cheap now that .50 a BF is about all that can be had for corral boards as far as I can see.  We have to be careful not to offend the Federal tree gods that protect big industry and union labor so not trying to go into it big.  Something like 70% of the pine here is damaged and dying because of drought and beetles.  Half the mountainsides in the pine forests are dead.

Is that your 'for sale' rate on lumber?  If so wow!  Or is that your milling rate?  A lot of millers seem to charge .35-.45c per bf for soft wood or just by the hour out here but occasionally I hear lower prices...but none of those for remote site milling as it's harder to find someone willing to drag a mill to the places I do! lol

[glenn kangiser]

That's it, Eric.  I had someone interested but haven't heard back.  I don't really want to work cheaper than that so I don't really care if I sell it either. 

Blades are around $25

Truck and fuel to pick up cost money and time too and the truck and crane breaks, so I'd rather not work for less than cost.  Just something to do in my spare time. 

There was a guy doing it a bit north of here for .35 BF, towing a trailer behind his old car for deliveries but I heard he was losing his tail.