ladder ridge hook equivalent for standing seam, metal roof?

Started by metolent, September 18, 2012, 11:51:47 AM

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metolent

Hi all - I'm in the middle of trying to get the exterior stained before the rain returns for the year.  On our next painting trip, I want to lay down some paint on the cheek walls (that upper forward facing wall of the dormer in the pic below).  The question is how best to do so safely while minimizing the "pucker factor,"  so I'm looking for some advice. 

My roof is 12/12 where I need to be to get the cheek walls (see picture below).  My first thought was to just get some ridge hooks attach them to one of my extension ladders and have at it.  But I'm concerned that I'll damage the metal roof near the ridge or the ridge cap itself.  What have you successfully used?  Ridge hooks?  Or are there some special ridge hooks I should be using? 

I read some forum posts from guys that cut kerfs in 2x6s to slip over the standing seams of the metal (orienting the 2x6 perpendicular to the standing seams) that supposedly locks down with friction making it a "step" so to speak.  But I'm not necessarily looking to start surfing a 2x6 down my metal roof.   :o

Any advice?

thanks,
matt



Redoverfarm

#1
Matt a few things come to mind.  Just a shot in the dark as I can't actually see what you are up against behind the room addition.

One would be a "chicken ladder" constructed of wood with legs (45 deg) from the top down the other side.l  Of course you could modifiy a aluminum extension ladder by bolting wooden legs to the end.  To keep you off your ridge just add an extra 2X to the legs that would come in contact with the roof.  That will keep the actual ladder off the ridge.

Second would be to temporarily attach roof jacks.  Lay 2X(6"or 8") against the jacks and then place a ladder on the roof letting it bottom out against the jack. You could install a longer jack board and reach both sides as well as the front.   Then when you are finished just insert regular metal roof screws(gasket included) into the holes you created.  I know you don't want to put unnecessary holes into the metal.  I was plagued with a similar delimia when I had to stone my chimney.  The only trace of what I did is 6 additional screw heads on the roofing tin.  This is a picture of how I used them.  I had installed 3 jacks because of the weight of the stone, mortar and tools but 2 should be sufficent for yourself and ladder. If you had access to some scaffolding you could use it as well in conjunction witht eh jacks.



Third being a extension ladder laid against the roof tin from the ground with one exception you will probably not have the length.  Use your truck bed as a base for your ladder.  That will elivate your ladder up to possibly lay flat.  Resting it on the ground is usually not an option because you need an extremely long ladder. Using the truck bed will give you additional reach and not allow it to kick out at the bottom.

Finally a man lift but that is usually cost prohibitive.


mnboatman

I built my own roof ladder to work on the 9/12 pitch steel roof. I laid some 14' 2x4s down and placed scrap 2x4 across as steps.
I slid it up on it side with the help of a rope over the peak.
It was easy to move laterally as I progressed.



If you want some scratch protection for the steel, add some carpet scraps.



I felt confident scampering up and down as I put in screws.