Drying in the first floor first?

[Jimmy_Cason]

I just got back from H&R Block. My income tax return is will be $2200.00. (Remember, I am building as I save the money). I also have a few hundred saved to add to this amount.
I am thinking about buying all the windows and doors for the first floor, the sub-floor for the second story, replace the 25x40 tarp I shredded because of the rain water, and put Tyveck or tarpaper over the sheathing.
By doing it this way I think I could keep the first floor dry until I have saved enough to build the second floor and roof all at the same time.

With a layer of 4 mill plastic and a tarp covering the upper subfloor and a temp frame with plywood covering the stairwell. Do you think this would keep it dry enough to bring my items in from storage? I really would like to get away from that 50 dollar a month storage fee.

Theft is not an issue. The inlaws are right across the street.

Any thoughts?

This is what it looks like at this time.

[glenn-k]

Great to see that things are going the right direction for you, Jimmy.

I would just be absolutely sure that the loss of things in case it doesn't work is not more than the $50 per month.  Perhaps you can get one section absolutely sealed and secure even if it means a temporary plywood and tarpaper roof over the one secure storage room?  I'm always putting things in semi-secure areas that end up having a leak in just the wrong place - can't do it all at once.

The place is really looking great, Jimmy.

[Bouncer]

Why not use the money for the second floor and just use tyveks or roofing paper to cover the doors and windows.You can lift them up when there and tack them down when gone.
Just a thought.
Kevin

[Jimmy_Cason]

That was my original plan. And it still might be the way I decide go. The only reason I am thinking of doing it the other way is because I had plastic covering up the windows and doors during the last storm. But, When the tarp failed I guess it became some sort of wind tunnel and blew out a few of my plastic coverings.  The solid floor above might stop that problem.

[glenn-k]

That sounds like a real good idea - then even a single 30lb roof felt covering over the roof sheathing will dry you in and it can be part of your permanent roof.

Strips of wood over the plastic will help keep it from tearing out - wrap it around the wood or double it for extra strength.

[Mo(Guest)]

Great looking framing.
We did the framing for both floors and the rafters. Then we wrapped it in 84 Lumber wrap, we have 2 sliding door openings that have been covered in the wrap for 2 years now and we haven't had any problems. This winter we did make frames out of firring strips and plastic for the inside.  
We covered the roof in a durashield tarp. It is thicker than regular tarps and has stop rip throughout it. We did take it down the sides of the cabin and wrapped it around 2x4's and then attached it to the side of the cabin. this made a tight seal and the air didn't get under the tarp. We did this down to the bottom of the gable end also.
The only problem we have had is with the 84 Lumber wrap. It seems to attract Lady bugs by the millions.

[jraabe]

When I built my place I bought a big family camping tent and used it for storage over the winter. In the wet NW winters things just turn organic too fast. Most of the books and clothing had to be thrown away in the spring. This was without any real "leaks" just wicked moisture from the ground and perhaps some creep at the seams.

Oh, had to throw the tent away too. Now I understand why Lewis and Clark complained so much about their winter at the mouth of the Columbia

[spinnm]

You may be right Jimmy.  There's a powerful chimney effect that goes on if there's wind coming in from open doors and windows.  I speak from experience.

On the other hand, with your rain, might be better to get the roof on and leave the vertical openings.  Have to do the roof too, tho.  Wind would rip anything off.  I did this once.  Can't tell you how many times I redid the felt.

Might want to rig up something that gives you a little pitch under the tarp...and check the tyvek.  I don't use it, but seems to me that it decays under UV.  In fact, get the latest issue of Fine Homebuilding.  Big article discussing all the house wraps.  Last paragraph the author says that he'd use tar paper.

Gets discussed on the MB all the time.  Has a tendency to trap moisture behind it.  With your climate, I'd use felt.  Your call.

[speedfunk]

i belive tyvek is 100 day before uv starts breaking it down

[Jimmy C.]

i belive tyvek is 100 day before uv starts breaking it down

Thats good. I think tyveck is what I am going to use.

http://construction.tyvek.com/en/constrSystems/newResidentialTraditional.shtml

[glenn kangiser]

Hate to confuse the issue but I'm with Shelley.  Old discussion:

Search Tyvek -this forum

The Tyvek type wraps aren't all they have cracked up to be.  Dirt carried into them under the siding or a surfactant such as soap from washing the walls can destroy their chemical coating making them useless - how about installing a damp rag under your siding    

I read that the way tar paper protects is to wrinkle up a little under the siding allowing drainage.  The report I read said 30 lb was better than 15 lb tar paper.  Both were better than defiled Tyvek - (ooooh- I feel so soiled).  :-/

[Jimmy C.]

Does the tar paper give off a smell that would be noticed inside?

[glenn kangiser]

I've never seen any problem with it. Let me run out and sniff some ----very mild smell at the paper outside when fresh -doesn't seem too be much on older stuff --  millions of houses have used it with no problem.

Lots of the new wraps are having major problems-- just goes to show that with enough advertising money spent on it people will buy anything.  I wonder what would happen if they spent all that money selling 30 lb felt.


Actually I have it around a lot of the walls of the underground cabin and have never noticed any smell.

[Jimmy C.]

I would hate to ruin that Fresh Built Lumber smell that is going on in my place right now!
Now that I think about it, I have never noticed a smell in any house being built other than the wood smell.

[glenn kangiser]

The best article I've found on comparisons of house wraps

[glenn kangiser]

I would hate to ruin that Fresh Built Lumber smell that is going on in my place right now!
Now that I think about it, I have never noticed a smell in any house being built other than the wood smell.

Tyvek and mold would be a bad smell too.

[Shelley]

No smell to speak of Jimmy.  Little tar-like when you unwrap the role.  Quickly disperses.
You ought to see me with the stucco guys.  No house wrap, no synthethic.  Tar paper and old-fashioned 3-coat.  If they're over 50 their eyes crinkle and they say, "that's good".  If they're young they're teed off because it's more work.

A lot of this new stuff isn't better; it's just faster.

With your climate I'd really research carefully.  I read a big article in Fine Homebuilding a while back.  Contractor in Las Vegas.  Nevada.  Talked about tearing into 5 year old houses that were totally rotten.  And that's in a place that has low humidity and little rain.  Mfgs say that it's improper installation....just as the synthethic stucco guys said when all the lawsuits were filed.  I dunno.  But I know what works.  That's why I'm a dinosaur

[John Raabe]

I'm coming around to thinking that heavy tarpaper - 30#, is often better a better choice as a housewrap than anything else. Now, I'm sure there are many climates where Tyvek and other options work just fine. However, with wood siding in a stormy climate there can be problems with the plastic air barrier housewraps.

One reason I'm changing my mind is the new information on long-term siding performance under heavy weather conditions and the importance of a breathable "drainage plane" behind the siding. One of the cheapest and easiest ways to do this is to nail the siding to a wall with crinkly heavy tarpaper - there is enough air gap between the back of the siding and the felt that water can drain away without being sucked into the wall.

With a sealed wall such as stucco there are special issues and potential problems that are even more critical. A wall that is sealed from both sides needs perfection to stay dry. Traditional stuccos were breathable, modern plastic materials (paints, poly vapor barriers, foam insulation) seal the surfaces.

Siding is best that can:
• expand and contract
• has breathing room between the pieces (shingles, boards)
• and also behind (with a drainagle plane).

This type of siding will be able to adjust to just about any weather conditions. And this type of installation will get the longest life from wood, concrete or any other type of siding material.

Now you can seal the inside of the wall (drywall and two coats of primer is the simple way) and not have to worry about trapping moisture in the cavity.