Tying in block wall to footer.

[Gravel Road]

I have read two schools of thought about rebar from the footing into the block wall to tie it together/strength.

1.  wire in L shaped rebar to the rebar in the footer, every 3 feet, place block over and grout cells.

2.  pour footing, then drill out hole for vertical rebar and epoxy in 3 ft length.

The epoxy route seems easier and allows for adjustments if needed.  Is epoxy strong enough?  Codes office allows either.

Note: walls are to be 10 inch dry stack with vertical rebar, course grouted and bond beam/rebar on top course...

Thanks.

[Don_P]

No competition, #1. If you miss "close", remove the offending web on the bottom course and adjust the rebar a little, this will be later filled in the grout lift.

[rick91351]

No competition, #1. If you miss "close", remove the offending web on the bottom course and adjust the rebar a little, this will be later filled in the grout lift.

Hey thanks for the post Gravel Road I was sort of thinking posting a couple questions in this line as well!!

By web here are you referring to the center cross member of the block it self?  Could it be done at the end of the block as well?  Forty years ago when I was a concrete mixer truck driver (seems like another life now)  we hauled a lot of grout. It was sand - pea gravel and cement and mostly pumped.  What do you grout with today?  Is sand and cement an option now as pea gravel is not up here.  I am thinking of making a small foundation for a small cabin over a cellar or maybe just a root cellar.  How far apart would you place your verticals.  Engineering called for a # 4 every 18 inches when I poured the foundation on this house.

   

 

[Don_P]

I guess first is to try not to end up there. Figure out block layout and try to hit the voids. I don't see a problem with removing and forming the entire block area if it came down to it. The steel reinforced grout column is what is doing the work. You are creating vertical beams from floor to floor that brace the wall against horizontal loads or buckling.

You seem to be in a tighter area than prescriptive Rick, and, the prescriptive reinforcing tables really vary by wall thickness height and amount of unbalanced fill. Those tables are in section R404

You are describing fine grout vs course grout, nothing wrong with it as long as proportioning is good. There is a table somewhere in the code but I can't remember where at the moment. I went to the Concrete Masonry TEK manual . Google NCMA TEK 9-4 and it should come up with the Nat'l Conc Masonry Ass'n grout specs (which explains things better than the codebook).

[rick91351]

You seem to be in a tighter area than prescriptive Rick, and, the prescriptive reinforcing tables really vary by wall thickness height and amount of unbalanced fill. Those tables are in section R404

Kind'da' got a lot of head scratching  going on.  Us that try and color between the lines that is.  As we are not on a high seismic region yet it is seems we are.  But the charts down at the county planing and zoning show we are not. But you get stuff from engineering firms are drawn as if we are. No larger than I am talking about I think I will just pour it if I find the money for it one of these days.  Then build a shed or bunk house type cabin over it so I wont have to worry about a 'lid'.  But then concrete is crazy up here now at $195 a yard. We just poured 13.25 yards that is what it came to. With a five yard minimum on the last pour. Or that is what the batch plant said it was going to cost.  We will see when the computer says when it gets done billing it.             

[Gravel Road]

...Not sue if I need to clarify...some people use a key way on top of footing before laying block.

1) I was looking at 1 wiring in "L" shaped rebar from footing that comes up vertically thorough the cells of the first few courses of block.

2) Or, just drilling holes and epoxying in vertical rebar

I like doing the drill/epoxy ... to me it is easier and quicker...I know it's not as good though...The biggest reason I like it, is that I think it does the job and is easier and quicker...As for wiring it in, well, it seems like a lot of time to do and getting it right seems a bit more of work than I care for...not lazy, but trying to economize time where I can.

Local Codes are okay either way.