forming a concrete stemwall with a small twist

Started by MikeT, October 17, 2007, 08:25:21 PM

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MikeT

So for my kitchen bumpout on the VC project I am building, my structural engineer has called for an 8' high stemwall (five feet is below grade with three feet being above grade--it is also serving as a retaining wall).  It would be easy for me to visualize how to form it if there wasn't this twist:  he has called for the below grade portion to be 8" wide with the top three feet being 6".  He said this would make it easier to furr out, insulate and drywall.  So how would I go about creating the form for such a wall?  I should add that I gather I will need to place a ledger board and hang joist hangers off it for the floor.

Make sense?

Thanks as always for your help.

PEG688

 Way more bother than it's worth IMO. I'd pour the whole works as a 8" wall.

I don't understand the "why" you'd need a ledger and why he thinks it would be easier to fir out the wall?

 Is the plan to hang the joist inside the foundation wall?

If so it will be  a PITA whether it's a 6" wall or a 8" wall , at least for any services , IE wires , pipes etc that want to pass thru that wall either into , or out of the basement ?/  crawl space.  

 You will I assume have a basement? If you need a 8' high wall, why not !
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


MikeT

Yes, PEG, the plan is to have the joists hang from a ledger that is five feet high on the wall and three feet of the kitchen/dining area is concrete stem wall.  I should probably put in a picture, but I do not have one handy.  The reason is that this kitchen bumpout and the wall I am framing is on a slope and I am trying to create a parking area upslope of the kitchen, so the walls have to be able to withstand a vehicular load and at the same time not  be too steep.  If I simply framed the kitchen bumpout with a 2 foot stemwall, the slope would be too steep to park a car.

I will try and find a good picture.  But in the meantime, thanks for the opinion that the pain and anguish of trying to build and frame something to get 2 extra inches of interior space below some windows might not be worth it.

mt

glenn kangiser

#3
I don't see a problem, Mike.  Seems this is not a big area so just form it all up as 8 inch then take 2x stock (1.5" appx) flat ways for spacers and put 1/2 inch plywood over it to box out the section you need to.  If using snapties, do it in sections or strips - seal the crack with canned foam as needed.  If you need ideas sketch up what you need in design and how you plan to do it and I can help you figure it out.  I am currently working with basement walls using Rapiform clips - thanks to you. :)

You could weld or screw 8" Rapiform clips to 6" Rapiform clips even at the outside edge -

....an even easier way -- extend your 8" wall up 3.5 inches extra - nail a 2x4 inside the top of the form - that will get the 6" bacjk down where it belongs - extend the top 3' with 1/2" plywood using wailers to keep it in place and straight.  Make sense?  If not I can sketch it.

Nail the ledger inside the form with J bolts or other anchors before you pour, or leave anchors bolted to the form then pull the nuts off to remove the form after poured leaving the anchors embedded in place.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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PEG688

Oh so more info does help eh ;D, Sure then something like Glenn said could work , you may want to pour in a PT sleeper into the  wall. This would be used later to nail your D/W / interior finish materials to.  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .