Installing windows after lock-up

[Ignavus]

Hi there,
I'm building a small cabin (20x16) in small stages as money/time comes available. I've now reached a bit of a critical stage of going from completed foundations to lock up, which basically has to be done in one great big step (since I don't want to leave the flooring exposed to the elements).

However the windows/doors are going to be the most expensive part of the build. So I'm toying with the idea of only purchasing a single door, installing all of the framing/roofing/siding, and then when I finally get the money for the windows, I'll come back and cut holes in the siding, install headers/jack studs etc...

I should also mention that I'm purchasing second hand windows, so I don't know their exact dimensions, which means I can't pre-frame the openings at this stage either.

Has anyone done a build this way? Would I be better off to just wait longer & do it all at once?

Thanks,
Andre

[kenhill]

We built ours that way.  We used a sawzall to cut the openning.  Cauked the window before install and then caulked the top of the trim to keep water out.  Not the recommended way to waterproof a window installation.  We did this before insulating or finishing the interior.  I wish I had planned it out and framed it beforehand.  I think it would have been easier.

[Abbey]

I know a guy who did this as well. He didn't finish any of the interior walls and as he got a window he would figure out where he wanted it and then frame the jack studs, cripples, headers, sills, etc. from the inside cutting the studs where he needed to get his rough opening, then he'd simply cut the sheating with a sawzall and installed the window. It sounds like he did pretty much what you want to do, although until he had more than one window it was dark in his cabin.

The last question is up to you because what works for you might not work for someone else.

[CjAl]

Its best to frame the openings in the walls. You can add the openings later but it is easier to do now and just put the sheething over them and cut them out when you need to. Thats what i am doing. I am using  T1-11 siding just to save some time since it is both sheething and siding in one  later i can put siding over it if i want.

Advantec subflooring is weather resistant for like a year. My build got stalled for a year because my business wasnt doing good.My subfloor has been exposed for over a year now and its just starting to get soft in a few spots. It is not advantec it is the trufloor that lowes carries. I am really wishing i had spent the extra money on the advantec.

[JRR]

If you have any covered storage available; I would advise that you buy the windows "ahead", ....then you will have their exact dimensions ... and then frame to suit.

Be sure to asked the big-box stores if they have any great deals on windows.  Often they have windows on-hand that were ordered and not picked-up ... or stock to be disposed off for other reasons, especially if they are currently changing manufacturers.  You will need to speak to the head of that department.

[Abbey]

JRR,

Not just the big box stores but a lot of lumber yards or hardware stores that sell building supplies also have a back room where miss-ordered stuff is stored. Many times you can get perfectly fine brand new windows and doors for sometimes half price. Also look into places that are going out of business. I got 3 $300 windows for $50 each. I also got a Makita chop saw for $25. It was one they had used for cutting down lumber in the yard so it was used, but it works perfectly fine. I was too late to get the Bostitch air nailers that they were selling for 80% off list. They were selling boxes of nails for the Bostitch coil nailers for $5 each. I told a friend of mine who has that nailer and he bought every box they had, he told me that for the full price of 1 box he got 11 or 12 boxes. He also bought all of the low expansion foam cans they had in stock as well for something like 90% off list price. Sorry to ramble on like that, I'm going to eat a chocolate chip cookie now.

[flyingvan]

  I agree, framing for windows in advance is far superior.  Just frame standard sizes-- 4-0x4-0 or 2-0x3-0 for example.  After framing, though, just put up sheer panel everywhere, including right over all the window openings, then the housewrap.  You can come back later and cut the windows and doors out of the sheer panel from inside, cutting right against the window frame with a sawzall