Add Concrete Block Between Perimeter Posts

Started by stricsm, October 26, 2011, 12:32:55 PM

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stricsm

I have an old cabin that we are slowly fixing d*.  Our bedroom is built on posts/piers but I'm not sure how stout it is; we bought it this way.  I'm adding a beam now because of a span problem and thought about adding cross bracing to the perimeter posts.  Instead of adding cross bracing I've decided to retrofit if possible a concrete block foundation between the posts.  The block and posts will eventually be covered with dry stacked rock.  Anyway, I'm not sure how close I can dig to the posts for the block footers and how to mechanically tie the block to the posts.   Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.  The main area is shown in the photo.  Thanks.

Mark



MountainDon

What about building a PT wood framework, like wall studs between the piers. Sheath that with PT plywood with lots of nails. Sort of like a permanent wood foundation. More detail later if you want.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


OlJarhead

Quote from: MountainDon on October 26, 2011, 04:23:33 PM
What about building a PT wood framework, like wall studs between the piers. Sheath that with PT plywood with lots of nails. Sort of like a permanent wood foundation. More detail later if you want.

This is also what I've been thinking as a way to enclose my foundation and insulate it.

stricsm

Thanks Don.  I've thought about that and may still do it.  It just seems my task list keeps getting bigger.  Right now I have the stone mason putting stone on the front of the cabin and he could very easily add the block for me.  But, if he can't get to it I may just do the PT wall and have him come back and rock it when I win the lottery.

If I did the PT wall would I need to pour a footer the same as for block?  Low risk for quakes, high risk for tornadoes, and mild winters.

MountainDon

If you do the PT wall do one of two things. Either dig down below frost level just like the pier footings should be, or keep the bottom plate of that added in PT wall above the grade level. No need to complicate matters and have frost heaves possibly causing problems.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Don_P

I've generally supported on either side, remove the post, dig a footing trench and pour that section, block or stone the foundation, move down and repeat. Part of the reason I try to steer folks towards doing it right to begin with, it's sure alot easier to put in a foundation before there is a house on top of it.

stricsm

I like the idea of doing it in pieces and removing the posts.  Is it better to start at the low end, the high end or does it matter?

Don_P

I don't think it'll really matter. I was driving the footing rebar into the next unexcavated section about a foot to give enough for a good tie when I got that section dug out.

Squirl

Just curious for a few more details.

Is the stone mason doing the block?
What kind of block? (6" solid, 8" hollow, etc?)
Mortared or drystacked?
PT sill plate?


stricsm

The stone mason will do the block if I can afford it.  I haven't showed him the job yet so I don't know how he would do it.  It would have a PT sill tied to existing structure and probably not be dry stacked.