Victoria's Cottage- Best siding for my climate?

[MikeT]

John, Glenn, et al

As you may know, I am building the VC design on the Oregon Coast (rain, high wind zone D) .  I am about ready to frame, and I need to land on a siding choice.  If you were building in this climate, what would you think about:

Hardiboard- the 4'x8' sheets that also reportedly have sheathing strength, a la t1-11

over 30# tar paper

over 1/2" CDX (because I read that OSB is mold candy)--or is the CDX even necessary if I am using the sheathing capacity hardiboard?  And if I go without the CDX should I let in those diagonal braces?

over 2"x"6 walls

I would especially like to hear from those who know this climate well.

[glenn-k]

I'll go with the tarpaper/felt part.  Good choice there.  Last trip to the coast they told me of several near new apartments that had to be torn down because of housewrap failures causing mold and rot.

[jraabe]

I would use plywood structural sheathing, 30# felt and perhaps a rain screen spacer over that (thin lath or 1/2x vertical) then whatever siding is appropriate to your style. The Hardiboard is not as subject to transmitting moisture as wood sidings but it is still a good idea to let the back of the siding breathe. In an earthquake zone do the plywood sheathing and count the siding as extra racking resistance insurance.

[MikeT]

Thanks to both for your thoughts.  I will plan on adding the 1/2x vertical to the mix as an air gap.  If you don't mind, just let me play this out for the inside of the wall now:

2 x 6 studs with R-21  (?) batt insulation

then vapor barrier (yes or no)

then  sheetrock

then (perhaps) pine paneling.

With this wall setup, from outside to inside, do I need to insert some rigid styrofoam insulation on either side of my studs?  Would it get me much in terms of added value--remember a home on the Oregon coast?

[jraabe]

Looking at the inside of the wall - I would do the R-21 high density batt insulation first. Then, I have done a 6 mil vapor barrier in my own house with no problem (but not all builders do it in the NW climate). You do want an air barrier at least and can use Tyvek here as well.

Then, if you want a super insulated wall, add an inch of foam - it will be about an R-5 that will perform as an R-7 as it insulates the studs and all the mini gaps. This will give you SIP level insulation performance. If you do the foam you don't need to do the poly vapor barrier - just tape the seams for air control.

You can then do drywall (for fire protection and backing for thinner wood paneling) or just 3/4" wood paneling. Code would likely require drywall protection only on common garage walls and under stairs.

[MikeT]

Thanks, John.

I will use this as the plan.

Now if the weather would give me a break....what a wet and windy late fall/early winter.

mt

[MikeT]

With respect to the 1" foam panels, I know I can go to Home Depot/Lowes and get the Dow panels, but I was wondering if one can get a similar performance for less money if I find simple styrofoam sheets that might be used/sold for other purposes.  Does this make sense?  

mt

[John Raabe]

The Dow blueboard (expanded polystyrene) would be the better choice. White beadboard (expanded polystyrene) is not as tough and under some conditions can absorb moisture.

http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/E/AE_extruded_polystyrene.html

[HAsh]

Mike, I'm going to PM you. I'm also on the Oregon Coast and have been obsessed with the VC plans since I saw them here 3-4 years ago.