Any "building for a lifetime" tips

[RayN]

I just got my approval for a "camping cabin" by the APA (Adirondack Park Agency - a forever wild area ).  The 12x18 little house with a loft is the idea.  Since I do have a house on the property the cabin will be used for fun and guests who like to hike; since it will be well into the woods.

I would like the structure to be in good shape well after I'm gone.  What things should I consider when building to make this thing last for a long long time.

I thought of:

 (1) vinyl siding over wood (I wanted to do Adirondack siding for authenticity but I think its not good)
 (2) maybe going 2x6 studs or 2x4 unsanded studs over finished 2x6 for some extra strength
 (3) use glue and screws over nails for the plywood sheathing
 (4) maybe foam insulation instead of fiberglass, thinking animal invasion

Any other things ?

Thanks

[John Raabe]

• I would vote for using wood siding but not treating it with anything but perhaps a coat of clear wood finish. Then let it age. In most parts of the world it turns dark and erodes at about 1/4" per century. Vinyl looks like plastic stamped with a wood grain and ages like plastic (ie: becomes brittle and chalky).

• I would do the siding on 1x4's over the building paper or Tyvek to provide a rain screen and backside ventilation.

• 2x6 framing with galvanized or ring shank nails would be fine. I wouldn't glue the framing. Use KD materials if worried about cracks with drying.

• Foam insulation on either the inside or outside of the framed wall would add additional energy efficiency but wouldn't add to the durability of the house. (Keeping it somewhat heated and ventilated even when unoccupied will however.)

• Do a very good job on dealing with site drainage and water runoff. Build up off the ground. Many of the 100+ year farmhouses are up 30" above grade. Slope backfill away on all sides.

• Good roof overhangs, a long term roofing material (metal or tile) with as few holes punched in it as possible. Gutters and downspouts or a gravel splash trench to catch and carry away runoff.

• Finally — a commitment to good maintenance. Nothing makes a house last longer than someone looking after it and fixing little problems before they become big ones.  There is no such thing as a zero maintenance house, and low maintenance is pretty much a marketing term rather than a reality.

(My advice? If you don't want to maintain your house, then rent somebody else's!)

[JRR]

I would add, for long building life... "choose a simple floor plan".  A simple square or retangular floor plan will allow a simple well draining roof.  A single ridge-line gable or hip roof avoids roof "valleys"... and water and ice damming.  If you choose an "L" or a "T", or some other floor plan shape, you will have a more complicated roof design... and it will cost more to construct.

Old style farmhouses usually have very simple roof designs.  The simple saltbox is a good example.  Some of these new cookie-cutter sub-division houses have such complicated roofs, I wonder how the rain water finds its way down.  Through the living space perhaps?

Avoid fancy stuff like roof "eyebrows" or skylites.  Gotta have dormers?  Not me!  Shed dormers if I must.

As John points out, extended overhangs are good.  Further, if you choose to send the vents through the gable-end overhang, water leaks around the vents won't be such a concern.

Plan to have a big masonry chimney?  Locate it centered on the roof ridge-line to avoid the need for a "cricket".

etc, etc.

[RayN]

Johns comment on siding I found is interesting.  Here is my experiences with different sidings:

1) 100 year old farmhouse, with painted wood siding, overlapped boards - not ship lap.  I wound up painting it twice in 12 years - of course it was painted a couple times before that.

2) 30 year old ranch with aluminuim siding.  It turned chalky after 30 years - I just painted it last year with a BenMoore product - looks good was a pretty easy paintjob.

3) 20 year old wood siding ( tounge and groove , sort of a reverse board and batton) stained with an solid stain.  It still good but "thinning" in some weathered areas.  Plan on painting this year - wish I did so last year.


The painted 100 year old farmhouse was a big job(s), so maybe with John suggestiong of the shiplap with using a solid stain and making one of my kids restain it in 20 years will keep it from looking like its abandoned.  

On other points, I plan on using a 12x12 pitch so the roof should hold up fine for a long, long time.

[Chuckca]

Thought I'd being this to the top - found this while reviewing John's past posts....

[Daddymem]

Soooo..John, what exactly do you have on that saltbox of yours?  How long was it on at the time of the photos here http://countryplans.com/sb-tour.html. It looks like a light brown stain on clapboard siding? Or is that natural aging color?Cedar?