14x24 on 5 Acres in Mounds, Oklahoma (2nd CountryPlan Build)

Started by ajbremer, March 21, 2016, 02:46:04 AM

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ajbremer

Thank you Don,

Those are excellent points you've mentioned. I cantilever over my beam by 2 feet, I don't know,
maybe I should put wood in between my joists right above the beams - the weight of the wall is
out there too so I guess it could only be a good thing.

I also really like the idea of using 2x4's instead of hurrican ties to support the joists to the beams.

Hopefully the sun will be out tomorrow and I'll get beam 2 started!
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

Don_P

Code limits the cantilever to the depth of the joist without engineering. The reason there is another phenomenon, horizontal shear. Hold the binding and opposite edge of a phone book and bend it, watching the pages slide past one another as it bends. This is similar to the shearing action along the grain of a beam under that type of load. For that reason, when you cross over the code limit it is a good idea to have the plan reviewed.

I tilled dust yesterday, hopefully we can trade a little moisture soon.


ajbremer

#127
Wednesday - April 20th, 2016

Today I cut all 6 tops of the posts for beam #2. They are a touch rough at the top
but I'll 'edit' them a little here and there. Tomorrow I'll screw and nail beam 2 together,
place it on top of these posts, and then do my gusset work.

https://youtu.be/zQ-tdd4vm4E

I noticed that one of my post concretes have cracked...

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

azgreg

Quote from: ajbremer on April 20, 2016, 03:14:56 PM
I noticed that one of my post concretes have cracked...

Do you think it was a mixture issue? What's your plan for it?

ajbremer

Thanks azgreg,

I'm not sure if it was a mixing issue as far as thr cracked concrete is concerned. I don't know just
yet what I should do about it but I'm studying the situation daily. Maybe I can get some kind
of circular band like a massive hose clamp kind of deal and pour something in the crack (if
it's large enough) and then clamp around it. I realize that water can make its way into
any cracks and that's not a good thing.

Thanks again azgreg, I'll let you know what I find out.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.


ajbremer

Thursday - April 21st, 2016

Got beam #2 up and a few gussets in place. Will hopefully bolt it all up tomorrow:

Here's a video:

https://youtu.be/Yyog9kDua8M
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#131
Thursday - April 21st, 2016 (The day the Red Baron was killed in combat at 25 years old)

A picture of the beams for our 14x24 CountryPlan:



And here's a very interesting article about why a post should never be surrounded by concrete.
(Something I wish I saw a little earlier). Picture first and then the link. The first post is the way
it should be, the second is the way it shouldn't be  d*:


http://www.temmelsiding.com/2013/04/why-deck-posts-should-not-be-set-in-concrete/
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

Don_P

QuoteThe first post is the way it should be

That is true if there is something bracing the deck that post is connected to, a house. 


ajbremer

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.


MountainDon

Quote from: Don_P on April 22, 2016, 04:30:44 PM
That is true if there is something bracing the deck that post is connected to, a house.


Yes, note that the article that was linked is referring to deck posts... not piers that support a building. A deck is an add-on to a house.  A house is not a deck. Construction details for building a deck can not be simply transferred to the building of a house.


If a horizontal force is applied to the top of the post that is nailed to the metal post base, the nails that secure the metal to the lower end of the post will not prevent the post top from moving sideways. Tilting, if you will.  You may have seen references made here and there to how certain methods can create hinges. The lower end of a post sitting on a metal post base is one such hinge.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

Note: regarding the carriage bolts. The carriage bolts pictured are electro-plated. Electro-plated fasteners are not approved for use with PT wood. Premature corrosion and possible failure is the problem.

IRC Section R317.3.1 Fasteners for preservative-treated wood, states...
"Fasteners, including nuts and washers, for preservative-treated wood shall be of hot-dipped, zinc-coated galvanized steel, stainless steel, silicon bronze or copper. Coating types and weights for connectors in contact with preservative-treated wood shall be in accordance with the connector manufacturer's recommendations. In the absence of manufacturer's recommendations, a minimum of ASTM A 653 type G185 zinc-coated galvanized steel, or equivalent, shall be used. "

There are some exceptions to the rule listed on the linked page.


A general FYI on carriage bolts... Most carriage bolts are threaded full length. That reduces the effective diameter to the diameter measured at the bottom of the thread.  A hex head bolt has the threads only at the end. A properly sized hex head bolt will have the full sized shank diameter almost all the way through the pieces being secured.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

ajbremer

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

Friday - April 22nd, 2016

One final video of the day.

Within this video I talk about some thoughts and considerations, things I should have done, things I did that I shouldn't have...etc.
I won't go into long explanations of why I did things the way I did, whether wrong or right, I'm just mentioning some thoughts
and some of ideas using my own logic...whether wrong or right.

I'm all done now with both beams, carriage bolts and all. I would like to mention one good thing about those carriage bolts. I
felt the flex back and forth in a perpendicular direction of the beam when I tried to jiggle and move the beam. I could feel it
flex a little bit, not much. Then, after I put the bolts in and tightened them, I tried it again and it's 'stiff as a board' (a little
pun intended). Here's the video:

https://youtu.be/gODdQXVI12M
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#138
Saturday - April 23rd, 2016

Today the wife and I took our Tandem bicycle and got a nice ride in on a great bike path in Tulsa. Came
home and screwed in gusset screws:

https://youtu.be/i63kMINS2QE

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.


ajbremer

#139
Sunday - April 24th, 2016

I have a question about the underlayment of my floor joists.

I have a bunch of 3/8" plywood that measures 2'x8' exactly. I'm thinking that I could put them on the bottom
of my floor joists and then I could put insulation into those floor cavities and then put my 23/32" Advantech flooring
on top of that. The Advantech cost $27.97 each at Lowes. Does this sound like a good idea? Here's a pic of my plywood:

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

MountainDon

Advantec sub flooring is good. Insulation in the floor is good. 3/8" plywood under is good.

How good is your luck with weather forecasts?  If you work from bottom up there is the danger of having rain before the top is all buttoned up. And then trusting that the Advantec joints are water tight if it rains before the shell is dried in.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

nailit69

You might want to shop around for that 3/4" subfloor.  I was going to use Advantech but my supplier didn't carry it (although he could order it) and I substituted for an in stock "Tolko mill" product instead which was only $15 a sheet and is just as good unless you plan on leaving it exposed to weather for long periods.   

I also priced out T1-11 for my siding, it came in around $1500... 7/16" OSB and 8" channel cedar siding came in at $1200 and it's a far superior building method than "single wall" construction... $500 in savings just on subfloor and siding .

Advantech is a great product... i've used it for years and it's never failed to impress but if you're trying to save a buck or two... take it anywhere you can.

I might hold off on insulating until you're sure it won't get wet... if you do insulate, be sure to glue the ends and the groove of the subfloor and that'll help keep the water out.  I'd also ventilate the 3/8" with a row of continuous vent strip on ea. end  of your joists to provide a little airflow.
   

ajbremer

Thank you MountainDon, those are things I didn't think of just yet.

Thank you also nailit69. I do choose to use Advantech because I believe my floor will be exposed
for a lengthy time, I'm trying to build my place everyday but there's days when I run out of wood
and just have to wait.

Nailit69, I'm not sure what you meant when you mentioned ventilating the 3/8" plywood with a row of
continuous vent strip on each end of my joists.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

MountainDon

Nail a strip of screen (to keep out small insects) with an overlay (underlay?) of 1/4" or smaller hardware cloth (to keep out rodents) under the joists at each outer end or along the beams.  I am not sure if it is necessary. We don't vent our wall insulation. We do vent attics and roofs as the upper area is where warm air and moisture is driven.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

nailit69

The Advantech is probably the way to go... if my place was going to be exposed over the winter i'd have gone with it too but I should have mine covered by Labor Day.

@MountainDon...  I was thinking venting if it's going to get wet, otherwise I don't usually vent a floor or wall.  It could even be covered up once it was dried in and screening it only to keep the critters out in the meantime.


ajbremer

Sunday - April 24th, 2016

Fixing my Ford Festiva and then I plan to sell my other Ford Festiva so that I
can get more wood...just trying to keep building.

https://youtu.be/dFvd50KZlU0
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

MountainDon

Quote
@MountainDon...  I was thinking venting if it's going to get wet, otherwise I don't usually vent a floor or wall. 

Right.  I am reluctant to install insulation in the floor before the bldg is dried in. We experienced way too much rain between laying the subfloor and having the roof dry.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

ajbremer

Good point Don, I see what you mean.

The one thing I think about is that if I install my insulation now, before I put my subfloor on, then I can place
the insulation in from the top and not from the bottom. I realize that I'd have to install the plywood from the bottom
but putting insulation in from the top seems easier than from the bottom.

I have a really nice massive tarp that I can always cover the floor with so that'll help. And using Advantech will
greatly increase my chances of weather NOT ruining my floor.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

nailit69

Quote from: ajbremer on April 24, 2016, 03:57:16 PM
I have a really nice massive tarp that I can always cover the floor with so that'll help. And using Advantech will
greatly increase my chances of weather NOT ruining my floor.

I've seen that Advantech left outdoors and exposd to the elements for over a year and other than some discoloration it's just fine.  Probably not intended to be left to the weather but good to know it can hold up if necessary.

ajbremer

Tuesday - April 26th, 2016

Covered up beams with a bunch of spare 3/8's plywood that I have. There's a lot of talk about
tornadoes here near Tulsa, Oklahoma today. Now though it seems the forecast has changed for
the better...a little bit.

I also setup our 200 gallon water container 'temporaily' for our rain catchment system, more pics
of that to come soon.

Here's a video of how I covered my beams from the storm:

https://youtu.be/v0v1VdOOOn4
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.