Adding 12 feet to the 1 1/2 home.

Started by schiada, September 07, 2011, 05:43:31 PM

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schiada

What  will I need to add to the plans to make the 1 1/2 home 12' longer?

MountainDon

To add to the actual plans, more paper.   ;D

To add to the structure, it's just adding more of the same down the length, more foundation, more wall, floor, roof. . Proper headers for windows, doors etc. The increased length may also get you into the realm of requiring more braced wall panels if you are in a code compliance area, and depending on the type of exterior wall sheathing, # of windows, etc.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


schiada

Thanks Don. But it is more of what I will need to take to the permit office? What needed to be added to John's set of plans?

MountainDon

It may be advisable to ask the office that will approve or reject the submitted plans. Their requirements may be different from others. Below is what my local authority having jurisdiction wants for a new build.

Two complete sets of plans at 1/8" = 1'-0 minimum with dimensions, on at
least 8 ½ "x 11" paper is required and will provide the following information:

1. __ SITE PLAN. Show proposed new structures and any existing
buildings or structures on site, including existing adjacent structures
within 10 feet of any adjacent property lines, and north arrow. Show
property lines with dimensions, all streets, easements and setbacks.
Show all water, sewer, electrical points of connection, proposed
service routes and existing utilities on the site. Show general drainage
and grading information.

2. __ FOUNDATION PLAN. Indicate size, location and depth below
grade of all footings, piers, and stem walls. If necessary, provide a
geotechnical report, including soil-bearing capacity for the proposed
structure at the site.

3. __ FLOOR PLAN. Show all floors including basement. Label all the
rooms and provide overall dimensions. Show all doors and windows.
Provide door and window schedules. Locate smoke detection
systems.

4. __ FLOOR & ROOF FRAMING PLANS. Show size, spacing and
spans of joists, girders, rafters, beams and headers. Specify grade and
species of all wood members. All wood trusses must be engineered
and pre-manufactured. The sealed truss engineered specifications
must be submitted with the drawings when applying for permit. The
manufacturer's instructions on placement and attachment of all wood
trusses must be at the job site for the building inspector's review.

5. __ DETAILS. Include typical interior and exterior wall sections showing
floor, wall and ceiling type, size, spacing and insulation required by the
Model Energy Code. Show footing and foundation depth and
dimensions; detail anchor bolt size and spacing, and spacing of steel
reinforcement in masonry, concrete footings and stem walls. Show
stair details showing dimensions of rise and run of steps, handrail
location, guardrail spacing, headroom, etc. Show fireplace details and
section showing masonry reinforcement; if using pre-fabricated unit,
the manufacturer's installation instructions must be at the job site for
the building inspector's review and uses.

6. __ TOTAL SQUARE FOOTAGE. List the heated, garage, carport,
covered porch and patio square footage on your plans. The total floor
area square footage must be listed on the APPLICATION for STATE
BUILDING PERMIT.

7. __ MODEL ENERGY CODE. A package explaining and detailing
Model Energy Code requirements, including sample worksheets, is
available, as well as one page compliance sheets for your area.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

keyjoy

Mountain Don, 
Not to hijack the thread, BUT, after you show them these plans what if you change your mind and want to say switch the bathroom to the east wall, or move a window down 3 feet, or put in sliding glass doors instead of a regular door, or say you decide to put the house 10 feet back so you can keep the only dogwood tree on your lot?? do you have to file an amended plan?
Can you keep working or do you have to get the change approved?
We don't have to get any permits or inspections here. I am just curious.


MountainDon

A major change would have to be signed off on. You don't just show them the plans, they may mark required changes and then stamp and sign the approval. Two sets are submitted and they keep one set.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

keyjoy


schiada

Thanks Don. The plans I have are for a 20' x 23' , 1 1/2 Home. But I am going to build a 20' x 42' , 1 1/2  home.
How or what will need to be added to John's plans? ???
But thanks for the other list,I got their list off the net. and it is about the same.
Thanks again for the input!
Randall

MountainDon

Expanded and dimensionally labeled foundation plan, floor framing plan. floor plan with rooms and dimensions, all that sort of thing. It means redrawing much of it to depict what is planned to be built.  As far as how much detail they want, they can best answer that question. They may or may not want elevation views of all the walls for example.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


John Raabe

#9
The 1-1/2 story plans are 20' x 30'. If you want to make the house 42' long rather than 30' you will be extending the structure length by 12'. That will mean doing the following:

• Extend the foundation - more piers (with spans on the beams no longer than current), more concrete stemwall or a longer slab
• Extend the main floor and loft floor plans - the new floor space will obviously have modified room layouts, and different windows and doors.
• Redraw the elevations for the new length, adjust such things as windows, doors, porches, and dormers.
• For a longer house with a larger loft you will want to use the larger "U-shaped" stair in the plans booklet. Include this in your floor plans.

For getting the basic shapes and an overview of the size you can do cut & paste layouts with the existing plans. Get two sets of copies and then overlay the two floor plans or elevations say until the appropriate length is reached. Use a razor knife and slice through both sheets and tape them back together at the new length. This way you can get a feel for the look and size of what you're trying to build. Existing interior walls, windows, doors, furniture, etc can then be taped down to this plan or elevation and will be at the same scale. That's what the final blank sheet in your plans set is for (however, you may need a larger sheet for a 1/4" floor plan of 42' feet long).

Some people use home design software and the appropriate templates from our sister site PlanHelp.com to do this work. This probably involves buying, installing and learning a new PC computer program. Here is a link: http://www.planhelp.com/public/92.cfm. It would be wise to have a home designer or builder check your work before submittal.

Other folks will get some tracing paper and do an overlay sketch on how they want the revised space to layout and then work with a local home designer to make the needed new layouts. This costs more money than a stock plan but less than starting a custom design from scratch. Often the details can be used from the paper plans without needing to be redrawn.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Native_NM



As noted, many of the better home design products will allow you to scan your existing plans and modify.  Every Kinkos in the world has it's own email address.  Create your drawings and email to Kinkos and have them printed on the plotter. 
New Mexico.  Better than regular Mexico.