? about EPB66 Simpson Bracket

[peteh2833]

I'm building the 1.5 story 20x30 cabin and have the plans already. I have a couple ?'s since I will be getting started soon.

#1. I will be drilling the piers down 36" and 16" in diameter. I will use rebar in the bottom and rebar in the hole coming up filled with concrete. At the top I will be framing in the top square and setting beam right it a bracket placed right in the concrete. The ? I have is does this sound good? Should I come off of the square pier with a 6x6 or leave it this way? Does the pier sound ok.

#2. Can I use the Simpson EPB66 bracket. Here is a link for it
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/EPB.html#

Thanks Pete

[youngins]

I mentioned in an earlier post that my local mega home improvement stores did not carry them. I was told that they would have to special order, and that I would have to buy the whole box.  Others on here have indicated they been more fortunate in locating it.

[peteh2833]

Thanks for the info. Pete

[youngins]

#1. I will be drilling the piers down 36" and 16" in diameter. I will use rebar in the bottom and rebar in the hole coming up filled with concrete.

Are you talking about using that circular rebar coming up the pier?

[peg_688]

I'm building the 1.5 story 20x30 cabin and have the plans already. I have a couple ?'s since I will be getting started soon.

#1.  A)   I will be drilling the piers down 36" and 16" in diameter. I will use rebar in the bottom and rebar in the hole coming up filled with concrete.


     B)   At the top I will be framing in the top square and

     C)   setting beam right it a bracket placed right in the concrete.


     D)       The ? I have is does this sound good?


     E)     Should I come off of the square pier with a 6x6 or leave it this way?


     F)          Does the pier sound ok.



     #2. Can I use the Simpson EPB66 bracket.

  Thanks Pete

#1 A)  John calls for a 8"dia. pier  so a 16" one should be almost as good  ,

     B)  Why do you want to take the round pier back to a square top?  Not neccessary in fact it would be a bad idea , hard to form up , and would just be will wierd  


    C)  You could  BUT again your just making more work , thats not neccessarily better.

   A post 6x6 could be place in the bracket and that post attached to the beam with a  AC66.

   


 If your lot has any slope keeping the piers low to the ground , say  at least a foot above grade makes more sence . Use the post to get the beam level , way easier.


    D)  No see above  

 

     E)  No see above .


#2)  John calls for a EPB or equal . IMO with that large a dia. pier I'd use a    CB66


 

Stonger bracket , you could either drop your beams right in or use the post to correct  

[highlight] Of course if you use PT materials make sure it's  ZMAX rated hardware. [/highlight]  CB44 in use:




AC44 in use:





Simple eh,

G/L PEG
 

[peteh2833]

Ok I will just go with the round pier. For the 16" pier can I just drill the hole and pour concrete right in and not have to worry about filling with any gravel along the sides? Is the CB66 rated for pressure treated lumber? Thanks Pete

[Kodakjello]

Hey peteh2833,

The CB66 in it's standard format is most certainly not rated for treated lumber, especially not the new ACQ lumber with tons and tons of copper in it. Simpson has a ZMAX coating which provides good protection (1.85 oz of zinc) but you might as well just go with the Hot Dipped Galvanized coating (2.0oz of zinc) since the brackets are NOT easy to replace once the pier has been poured. I would hate to have to re-do a 16" pier 10 years down the road because the bracket needed to be replaced.

One thing you should also consider is using self-adhesive roofing membrane to provide a physical break between the treated lumber and the bracket. That's what I'm doing with my beam foundation and from what I've read it should work just fine. Someone has a special type of membrance used specificatlly for decking but I can't remember what it is right now.

FYI I'm using the CB88 brackets with the Hot Dipped Galvanized specification on my house due to concerns raised through my research. Here is the perfect example: Two years after installation these researchers found visible rust on G185 (Zmax) brackets holding up ACQ lumber!! Check it out:

http://www.hpo.bc.ca/Research/R&Eupdate5-04/summary%20reports/Field_Investigations_Application_ACQ_Treated_Wood_FULL_Report.pdf

[jraabe]

Good suggestion Kodakjello:

We are still in the realm of the low serial numbers when it comes to the ACQ treatments and chemical/electrical reactions to metals. Almost any asphalt or butyl rubber based sheet goods will likely break the contact and insulate the reaction between the two materials.

PS - These self-adhesive sheets can also be used to extend the life of embedded posts such as in a post and pier foundation. Soil action and potential rot takes place only where both moisture and air are available. This is usually limited to the first 6" of a post below and above the grade line. If you can wrap the post for 12" using an adhesive sealant you will greatly extend the life of the post.

[youngins]

I learned that Stronge Tie has a tech note out there which suggests to wrap a barrier membrane (They tested Grace Vycor Deck Protecter) around the PT wood wherever anchors are attached.

Grace claims that their product protects against corrosion comparable to before the PT chemicals were changed.

Here are the links:

http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/bulletins/T-PTBARRIER05.pdf

http://www.foxhomecenter.com/lumber2/treated_wrap.htm

[peg_688]

 I did a thread on PT ACQ lumber a while back , no one read it I guess

This new ACQ stuff is a big mistake , , Who wants to look at a bunch of Grace vycor wrapped around ever post , under every hanger , etc .

[highlight] BTW the vycor doesn't stick would a $hit when it's cold and or wet , makes lay out a PITA , looks like hell in use , is a PITA for getting the hanger just right / hard to align the hardware .[/highlight]

Yup gonna be a problem , use SS  (stainless steel) [highlight]if you can find it / if  you can afford it[/highlight]  

[peteh2833]

Thanks for the info. Home Depot said that they can order any Simpson Bracket I want. Also they quoted me a price of $16.18 per LF for the I Joists and $4.10 per foot for the Glue Lam Beam. Do those prices seem right. For the I Joists it seems that I could put a center beam in and use 2x12's for the floor joists and save a lot of money that way. If I go with the 2x12's should I use Pressure Treated or not? Thanks Pete

[peg_688]

We Pay about $1.85 LF for BCI 5000 series 11 7/8  I joist and $ 7.10 LF for 3 1/8 x 10 1/2 G/Lam beam stock .  That in Western Washington , YMMV.  


 BTW Home depot is a poor place to lumber shop , I've said this before as well , hardware , OSB , cement , doors , plumbing stuff etc ya H/D the place , lumber no way it's all crap , Az., Ca. , WA. < never seen good lumber in a H/D.  

[peteh2833]

Ok, Thanks. I'll check at some other local lumber yards. Is Lowes the same? Pete

[peg_688]

IMO ya Blowes is the same