Back framing a standard gable roof valley.

Started by PEG688, September 10, 2008, 09:45:45 PM

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PEG688


  Here's how I do it.

Ridge is set by pulling a string line across the truss ridge . This gives you two things a straight line and a level ridge.



It's hard to see the string line but it's centered on the ridge board. 

 

The 1x6's are nailed over the lower sheathed roof to distrubute the load and take any point load of the sheathing and spreads it over both the sheathing and the trusses below.

 



They are nailed about 2" below the true valley line , the steeper the roof the closer to the valley they get placed as the angle of the rafter is steeper. I use a 6' level to "plane in " the 1x6's.

 

You have to keep in mind the 1x6's elavate the rafter's so the lift has to be factored in as to the exact placement of the 1x6's.

I just pull lay out from a common truss as long as you measure square across , not at a diagonal, you'll be OK with that process.


Seat cuts ,



Ridge cuts ,




This is a remodel , the double truss or girder truss has hanger on it to pick up the ends of the old common and mono trusses , the wall below will be removed later in the project when the doors , windows and roofing are all installed.

       
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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PEG688

 Getting ready for sheathing. I've noticed a lot of folks get things out of sequence , I do understand the "rush" sort of , but when you get out of sequence you'll pay in quality of workmanship , IE even I can install a row of straight bird blocks after the roof sheathing is on , and it would take at least twice as long to do the crooked rows.

Note bird blocks/ vent blocks installed , the outlooks for the  sub-rake,  rake and fascia boards are hung.

On this job the rake boards are held up 7/16" (thickness of roof sheathing ) so no 1x2 "shake mold" a narrow trim strip to hide the edges of the roof sheathing itself.  Save another piece of trim, doesn't look as nice IMO. I like the shake mold look. But this is a remodel so the ole 'match existing' rule of remodeling is involved.   

And any down low / hard to get to interior S/R backing is also installed BEFORE the roof sheathing.


The gable truss and the one attached via the lookouts are plumbed and straightened as well , before the sheathing even starts. 

Just thought I'd show the process.


   


Thanks Glenn.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

So on this method then the edges of the OSB roof sheathing are unsupported in some areas, PEG?  hmm
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


PEG688

#5
Quote from: glenn kangiser on September 13, 2008, 10:44:25 PM


So on this method then the edges of the OSB roof sheathing are unsupported in some areas, PEG?  hmm



No the rakes have a sub-rake 2x4 the LP plain ( a finished type of OBS one side has wood grain sort of like  T1-11 blank siding. The LP plain sits on the top of the fascia board , only about a 1/4" but no one walks that close to the roof edge. All  the  4' joints / ends of the sheets are supported by either he White wood ( Pre-primed Spruce 5/4 x 6 , or a truss/ sub rake 2x4.


The next trick is to stop the roofer BEFORE he drives roofing nails thru the LP Plain , the soffits and eaves are open hence the use of the 'finish' type LP Plain / OSB with a wood grained face/ one 'good side'.      

When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

PEG688


Yer welcome. ;)

You can see a cut sheet of the LP Plain leaning against the wall left of the door opening, the grayish piece.

It goes from the PPS  (Pre-Primed Spruce)  fascia to   C/L (center line) of the bird blocks , a narrow strip goes up the eaves butted to the PPS , fully over the sub -rake and back inward to C/L of the gable truss.


I didn't get a good photo of that detail. I figured it was a no brainier.  d*

       
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

I should understand it then.  I have no brain.  [crz]
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


PEG688

Quote from: glenn kangiser on September 13, 2008, 11:59:51 PM


I should understand it then.  I have no brain.  [crz]


Humm, why'd I have to esplain it then Lou-sey?  Read with your best Ricky Ricardo  ( I Love Lucy) accent.  [slap] rofl
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

You had to explain it to me because I do very few fine touches, Ricky, I mean PEG. 

Does that stuff cut good with a chain saw?      [chainsaw]
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

PEG688

Quote from: glenn kangiser on September 14, 2008, 12:19:50 AM


You had to explain it to me because I do very few fine touches, Ricky, I mean PEG. 

Does that stuff cut good with a chain saw?      [chainsaw]



Humm, thats depends ( yup breakum out )  rofl on what you consider "cut good" as ? The saw will go thru like a hot knife thru budda, it won't look  purdy though d*
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .