Tree Post

[peter_nap]

MY WIFE IS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!!!!!! :'(

Now that I got that off my chest.
I have been told that I will make cathedral ceilings and have an open area from one loft in one end of the building to the loft at the other end.

Because of the length between these two points my ridgeboard will need to be scarfed together in the center. After explaining to her that I HAD to have a support there, she agreed if I use a post made from a peeled tree. (She saw one in classic homes or something)

Does anyone have any idea how long I need to let the thing dry after I cut it, peel the bark and paint the ends? :'(

[glenn-k]

Depends on how wet you want to use it.  It will shrink probably about 3/4 inch per foot of diameter for softwood over a period of about 2 years.  It doesn't need a coating and if coated it should be breathable and non-mold promoting like DEFY by Saver Systems.

[glenn-k]

You could probably go with a giant expensive gluelam or similar ridge beam.

[peter_nap]

Thanks Glen!

I am putting in new family rules. She is forbidden to buy any magazines and cannot go into a Bass Pro Shop until this is built!

[peg_688]

 There may be a few other ways around this , I think Revextratall had a similar design issue about a year ago.  Maybe someone , Glenn   could find that post. OH I'll look as well :'(

 Anyway what exactlly are you building , how long, how wide?

If it a smallish cabin , and you have a loft  , indicating floor joist tieing the walls together  ,at both end .

I would think you could , IF wifie allows it , to use a collar tie system to hold that center section in tension/ up .

 Seldom is it REQUIRED for a ridge board to be full lenght / one piece to hold up a roof system.




This house was 40 or so feet long , and 18 feet wide , we used 3 ea. 2 x12's IIRC , so two splices/ joints , just butted , and 2x6 or 8 collar ties , you wouldn't even need a collar tie on every rafter pair every other may be enought , they could even be left unwrapped / raw wood if thats what she likes .

So maybe you could give us a lil more intel and we could figger some thin out fer ya that would work .
 

[peg_688]

Here's that thread

http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1174613115/0#0

You'll have to study the whole thread to see he was asking about the same thing you are , just using different words

See if that doesn't flesh out some of it , and maybe then re-ask / describe your questions so it's "more answerable " as what we have now is to little info to give good guidance.  

Or link any other thread you have about your building.  

I never knew you could click on the members word in the header above and view all the members by name , they are in post count order, scary, I'm near the top  

[glenn-k]

You can also sort them by name or any heading at the top of a column.  Click on the heading - name - click on alphabet letter - registration date - I use it for getting rid of new spammers.

[peter_nap]

Peg, it is a very modified version of Johns 20x30 basic.
It is 20x70' with a full pole foundation and Johns roof with collar ties:


It has a ten foot loft on either end with floor joists over a bedroom and bath on one end and kitchen on the other end.

The unsupported section (except for the collar ties) is 50'

As for the rest....depending on what kind of prices I get at the sawmill tomorrow, I'll either go with a stud wall fitted in between the poles or preferably, a traditional pole framing with girds.

[peter_nap]

Never mind. I finally talked her into letting me put a few posts in. The collar ties and columns will work fine now and she still has her open space.

[Woodsrule]

Peter,  I have been involved in building rustic furniture for about ten years now.  My rule of thumb with larger pieces is to let planks air dry one year for each inch of thickness.  For logs "in the round" I let them dry half as long, so for a support log that is six inches in diameter I would let it air dry for three years. In my experience, logs that are not dried sufficiently will check and crack more than most would find acceptable.  Painting the ends with wax helps them to dry more uniformly.  Good luck, Tony.