Concrete ?'s

[McClain]

I am building a 12'x12' shed to store tools and material prior to building the Victoria's Cabin.  I have a few questions about pouring the concrete slab (which I am planning to do this Sunday!).

1. I was just planning on buying enough 60# bags of Quikrete for the pour, but is it generally cheaper and/or easier to go to a specialty company and buy the mix?  And if so, how do they give it to if not in bags (i.e. I have a flat bed trailer)?

2. The shed will be up against an excavated wall, and will therefore need 6' of a block wall along three sides (I am using ICF's).  I was thinking a 12"x12" footer and a 4" slab (poured monolythically) would be sufficient, does this sound adequate? or should I go deeper? wider?

3.  Lastly, with a 12"x12" footer over 48' and a 12'x12' (11'x11') 4" slab, I calculate 93.4ft3 or 3.46yd3.  I've mucked alot of concrete but does this sound too ambitious for two people to accomplish mixing with an electric mixer?  The only alternative would be to pour the footing seperately and pour the slab inside later??

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

McClain

[John_C]

3-1/2 yards may be a large enough order to avoid a short batch charge by your local concrete co.  If so it will probably be cheaper and definitely a lot easier to have a concrete truck deliver it premixed.  If you can get close enough for their chutes and your forms are good a 12 x 12 pour will go quickly.

Make sure you don't come up just a bit short.  an additional 1/2 yard would be expensive.

[MikeT]

I live in an urban area with many options.  Some companies specialize in small batches.  Then there are places where one can get a trailer of premixed concrete and just haul it to the site.  Then still there are trailers with mixing capabilities.  All of these are alternatives to the big truck.

For me, I would try and form this as a monopour if possible.  And I would do everything to try and avoid buying, opening, lifting, mixing and pouring nearly 4 cy of concrete.

mt

mt

[McClain]

Thanks for the replies.  I'm building this in Duck Creek Utah.  We're only about 30 miles from the closest delivery company but it is 30 miles uphill and it isn't easy/cheap to get them to come up.  I did however make some calls and I might have a lead on a mobile/small batch operator!?

I know answers to questions about things that are best left engineered, like footings, are touchy, but let me ask what size footings people have used for either a standard 3-4' stem wall or what size people have used for basements?  Thanks again.

[John_C]

what size footings people have used for either a standard 3-4' stem wall or what size people have used for basements?  Thanks again.

I would think you would get better information from local people building a similar house on similar soil.

A one story stick house needs a much different foundation than a three story log home.  I believe that somewhere on the site John gives a simplified way of testing your soil for its load bearing capabilities.  Size/contruction/load bearing would at least help folks make a guess.

[McClain]

Thanks John,  

It is a 12'X12' shed w/ three 7' walls made of 6" Quad lock ICF's, one wall stick framed with 2"X6" dimensional lumber.  The roof will be framed as in the little house plans kit on top of a 2"x6" half wall for use as a temporary sleeping loft and eventually added storage.  

I will look up the article on identifying soil types but I can tell you it is quite solid.  I had to use a large chipping gun to excavate the footings, and will have to use it again to get them to dimension.  

Does this give you much to go on?

[glenn kangiser]

Are you planning on using steel in the walls and tying to the footings?  The walls I am building now require #5 rebar on 9" by 12" centers.  Footing was 24"wide 12" deep w/ 2 #4 continuous, but will have a 2 story house with rock walls above it.

[McClain]

Yes, I am using #4 rebar tied into the footing running vertical in the wall (set every 9").  I am also using using 2 #4 bars running in the footing, and a #4 bar running horiz. in the ICF's per manufacturer (every 1 foot running up the wall if I remember right).

[glenn kangiser]

Sounds similar to what our engineer did.  Must be right.