4x8 t&g advantech flooring 7/8

[astidham]

I special ordered 7/8 advantech flooring for my subfloor over my garage which is 20 foot wide.
The flooring is only 47.5 inches wide like all t&g I have ever used, but my width of the floor leaves a 2 .5 inch gap on one side...
Anyone have a solution for this?
It took forever to get this material since I had to special order it, and I only have 19 sheets

[flyingvan]

I swear, I'm going to market 1.5" t&g filler strips people can put every 3 courses to solve this.  It sure is a problem that comes up frequently

[astidham]

I swear, I'm going to market 1.5" t&g filler strips people can put every 3 courses to solve this.  It sure is a problem that comes up frequently

Lol....
I will be your first customer...
I need it by 7am tomorrow.

[MountainDon]

If you want T&G joints all across the width the solution is to rip a couple feet off the panels for one side, work across the width, then rip another set of panels to complete the other side. That is what I'd do if there was wall framing sitting on top of the sub flooring for certain. If this is just infill floor sheathing between wall framing and rafters that are already up then you should be able to finish off with a strip laid in with few or no issues. Or so it seems to me.

The thing that decides is whether or not the outer edges have a tie in to the wall structure or not. If a wall frame is placed onto top of the edge subfloor you want to have a 2 foot panel width to help tie wall and floor diaphragm together. I'm not sure how the whole thing is framed / built off hand.

[astidham]

Thanks Don,
It will go on this


I considered blocking one side between the floor trusses with a 2x4 flatwise against the let it truss brace at the top of the truss to be able to connect the short edge of the sheathing to the outer wall and use a filler strip to fill the gap.
Im not sure that would tie the floor together well enough though.

[Don_P]

In common practice most carpenters rip a thin filler strip at the end. As Mt Don pointed out this doesn't create the tie or diaphragm that is supposed to be happening there though. The APA says no less than a 16" wide strip.  One way would be to run a row of sheathing, then a 1x4 with blocking in every bay  that edges can be screwed to then remove tongue from the next row and continue across the floor  . another is to run straps (those cst simpson multi hole jobs) up and over the ends of the trusses, over the let in 2x4 and across the top of the trusses, then the fill the missing strip of sheathing. This is sort of a halfway approach, it ties but does not incorporate the "shear collector", the let in 2x4, into the diaphragm, the plate formed by the floor sheathing. That gap is literally the gap between engineering and the real world  .

[astidham]

Thanks Don,
If I ran a 1x4 after 1 row of sheathing, what would be a good way to block that area...
2x6 or (2) 2x4s? To make the connection to the sheathing.
Thanks,
Todd

[Don_P]

2x6 or even plywood scrap should work, really it's just holding alignment to prevent buckling. If you have access to a planer maybe dress some decking down to 7/8 thickness instead of a 1x4, depends on what that floor is going to finish as.