D-Log Shed Build on Skids

Started by OlJarhead, May 13, 2024, 02:49:30 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

OlJarhead

Afternoon all!

OK, I'm about to embark on a D-Log shed build that I plan to make somewhere between 8x10 to 10x12 and make 'non permanent'.  By this I mean the shed will be small enough to not meet permitting requirements and will not be on a foundation.

My plan is to set two logs flattened on two sides leaving at least an 8 inch flat face, on pavers/rocks/cinder blocks (not sure what I will do yet) and then build 5 or 5 1/2" D-Log walls on top of those logs which will leave a 2 1/2" 'ledger' (or at least a ledge) on the remaining flat surface (since the logs will have an 8 inch flat face and the D-Logs will be no more than 5 to 5 1/2 inches as I plan to use the worst of the logs I have already milled and just flatten them out) which would allow me to build my floor inside the 1st course of wall logs, sitting on the 'skid' logs.

My thought is that I won't move the 'cabin/shed' anyway so using the skid logs as a ledger to mount fix the floor on top of (leaving me a span of 10' so I'll use 8" floor joists most likely).

As I build up the course of logs I'll mark the door and windows (windows will not be put in the structure until/unless I convert to a bedroom cabin) and not screw the logs together in those location.

I plan to use 9" Oly log screws and place them at 24" intervals as well as at the ends.

I'll be using the Butt and Pass method of building and will use purlins to make the roof.  I can mill 1.5" 6" ceiling planks and probably make them into T&G for sheathing the ceiling then place 30lbs felt on top of those and I'll likely then affix two layers of R10 foam on them, then a layer of sheathing, more felt and then roofing (metal) to finish off an R20 roof with open purlins running the length inside with exposed 6" plank ceiling.

For the porch I'll extend the purlins 4 feet to the from and 2 or 3 feet to the rear (so if 12 foot in length I'll need 18-20 foot purlins) and use D-Log cut offs for the gables.

My main contemplation at this point is the non-foundation.  I think using pavers is probably the best option and setting them every 4 feet or even 6 feet should work.  Once level the area has good drainage so I'm not overly concerned about movement and with a 24" eve/overhang on the sides I should protect the logs well.

I figured I'd burn the logs before placing as the 'skid' foundation log and then use base plate seal foam between log courses to help seal up gaps and of course, finish it with chinking.

Any thoughts?  Concerns?  Suggestions?
Thanks!
Erik

MountainDon

Quote from: Jason Downard on August 13, 2024, 09:35:37 PMGreat, your plans for building a D-Log Shed without a foundation are very detailed and thoughtful. The use of cleats, flat logs as "supports" and the "Butt and Pass" construction method are noteworthy. Adding insulation and a porch design will add to the aesthetics and efficiency. If done correctly, you will have a beautiful and durable log home. ;) ;)

Odd comment and why the double winks?  Is the comment AI generated and the joke is on us? ???  ???
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


OlJarhead

Probably a computer generated spam post.  I see them all the time!

OlJarhead

I'm thinking now that I may place the skids as planned, then run flattened 6" logs as 'floor beams' to place plank flooring on (though I may use OSB and then 1x's to make sure it's well sealed.

I'm still debating the issue of rats and mice and insulation and maybe will use 2" Foam between the OSB and the 1" flooring or something like that.

Anyone have a good way to make a floor this way and insulate it while keep the rodents from stealing the insulation and without having to crawl under a structure on the ground and placing hardware cloth?