Deer Blind

Started by Adam Roby, February 19, 2022, 05:52:30 PM

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Adam Roby

Slightly off the cabin topic, but I was wondering how many have designed and built a deer blind?
Just started to think of this, something I'd like to add to my plot of land and hopefully use come October for the next season.
Initial idea was to build a 6'x6' blind, for two, 3 sides opening, door on the back, roof sloped from front 8' above floor to 6' in back. 
Floor about 8' off the ground.  I am thinking to make use those 50" Pylex foundation screws, with 3x sandwiched pressure treated 2"x6"x8's to span from screw to roof top (~16'), hopefully plywood sheathing is enough to brace it all, otherwise some added bracing added to the mix. 



Adding some bracing, make the roof and sides tarp and see through (just for visualization).  Figured I could add sides later if needed.


jsahara24

I have not built a deer blind yet, have been using the ladder stands but I am planning to build a couple on my farm in the coming years.  I have been watching videos of folks building them on Youtube, lots of different approaches. 

In my head the benefit on the blind is so you can stay "warm" while hunting.  So i'll be looking to enclose it to cut out the wind at a minimum, but also give me the option of adding a small heater. 

I would definitely plan on adding bracing to the legs, especially if the legs are only connected to the pylex and not in the ground at all.  Speaking of the pylex, will they help with uplift?  Want to make sure it doesn't end up on its side during a high wind event. 

Finally I would try to 'hide' it in the edge of the woods or similar, and brush it in so it doesn't stand out.  It seems deer are smarter than I am sometimes!  haha...

Good luck!


Adam Roby

The Pylex screws only purpose would be to help prevent uplift, which I hope would be sufficient.  The have a wide screw on the bottom and should be below the frost line once screwed down.  They claim 5000 lbs of support, but don't say how much uplift resistance.  I was hoping someone has tried them in these kinds of applications, as this would have significant topple over possibility being basically a box on a sticks.  :)  There should not be much weight on it, but will act as a sail once closed in.

I am looking to add a small propane heater.  I am hoping that being up a bit will help with them not smelling anything.
I already made a trail that goes in some 1000 feet or so which I use for 4-wheeling.  I also have some apple trees planted there which I hope will help attract them.  The plan was to put the blind near the end of that trail and hidden as best as possible.  I will be setting up some cameras in the spring and keep an eye on how much traffic I have through that area before committing to a final location.

Nate R

Following....have similar thoughts of building one this year, but probably higher....but haven't decided yet how it's all going to work.

I just want one that's freestanding in a better location than the current one, not attached to trees that sway, die, rot, etc.

jsahara24

Thinking about the pylex a little more, I believe they are intended to hold a beam to create a platform, and then build up off it.  I'm not sure how they will work holding a post, seems like it could be an issue...But I admit I have neve worked with them. 

My strategy would be to put 4-6x6s in the ground, built a platform on top of them, and then do conventional framing on top of the platform. 

Last year I sat out on opening day in the rain, it sucked....I was dreaming of an enclosed blind, if lumber comes down this summer as projected I might just build one..... 


Adam Roby

#5
@jsahara24 - Maybe we are referring to different products.  Not sure if the Admins will be OK with this, but here is a link to the product I am referring to.
https://pylex.com/en/produit/adjustable-pylex-50-black/

These are designed specifically for attaching posts to. 

Quote
The simplest and most efficient way to support a patio, tool shed or deck without needing to dig or pour concrete. Quick installation with a lever. Adjust the head to facilitate installation or add an extension to insert it deeper. Its steel structure, with a baked powder coating finish and its spiral disk ensure stability. This modern technology can be used in all types of terrain and resists ground movements (freezing, thawing). Supports a load up to 5 000 lb in sandy soil – 3 500 lb in clay soil. To be used with 4 in x 4 in square posts. Use with a Extension 24 inches for found a solid ground, and to be buried more than 42 in in the ground, below freezing depth. If necessary. Head adjustment can be adjusted up to 3 in. Offers long term protection since the wooden post is above ground level.



I don't have ready access to water, so mixing cement is something I want to avoid.  I need to bring water in for cleaning and drinking.  Need to tap a well for cleaning at least, but that's another thread for another day.  :)

Adam Roby

Quote from: Nate R on February 21, 2022, 01:48:53 PM
Following....have similar thoughts of building one this year, but probably higher....but haven't decided yet how it's all going to work.

I just want one that's freestanding in a better location than the current one, not attached to trees that sway, die, rot, etc.

I am also wondering about height.  8' doesn't seem quite high enough, but I think the higher I go the more unstable the structure will be.  I definitely would want a continuous post from the ground to the roof line to help with shear and not have an extra hinge point to worry about.  Those Pylex are designed for 4x4 posts instead of 6x6... not sure how well I would trust a 4x4 or laminated 2x4's up that high...  maybe I'm overthinking the wind factor?  I also do not want to attach to any trees and just be free standing.

MountainDon

Those piles can make a foundation with great uplift resistance and will keep the posts from sinking in the ground. However, with 8-foot posts, they will provide very little lateral resistance. The "box" on top of the posts will want to move sideways in a stiff breeze. Without having bracing between the lower posts it will not live long in a strong wind, IMO. If the posts were continuous from the bottom connection to the wall top plate, and if the walls had sufficient structural panels to become shear walls, that would be better.

I have been told that 8 feet is tall enough, maybe even only need 6 feet. But the blind has to be in that location long enough for the deer to become accustomed to it being there. Once it becomes a non-threatening "thing" that is always there they accept it.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

jsahara24

For some reason that link gave me an error, but I get it from the picture....

I hear you on the 4x4s, I've always said they are good for mailboxes!  haha....  However I've seen a lot of people build with them, considering its a tree stand there is some flexibility.  Just plan on bracing them really good....

The ideal height depends on the location and surrounding topography, my goal is going to keep it as hidden/out of sight as possible.  But yes, eventually the deer will get used to it, but maybe not the mature bucks during daylight hours.  They seem to be much smarter than me.....haha....Perhaps a small food plot of Rye/Oats is in order....



NathanS

I have this exact stand on my property. Built by prior owners and still working great. I will try to get some pics soon.

Mine is right next to a nice maple tree, perhaps anchored to it.

Posts are just sitting in those preformed concrete 'footings' on ground level.

For something that only gets used a few times a year, it's great.

NathanS

Here it is. Only mistake was the lack of overhang, which is causing corners to start to rot. The posts are just sitting in those precast concrete footings for 4x4 posts.



the stand is attached to both the trunk and the strong side branch.



during hunting season

Adam Roby

Very cool, it has a kind of antique look to it.  Thanks for sharing.
If I am counting right, looks between 10 and 12 feet high, is that about right?  How do you feel about the height?
The windows appear to be sliding, do you hunt with them open, or open for the shot?
Are you using a heater inside?
6x6 approx size?

I love the lever action with open sights.  I target practice with open sights at 50 yards at the range, but can barely make out the sheet of paper, let alone the orange bullseye.  I don't think I would take a shot over 20 yards without worrying about missing some vitals. 




NathanS

Quote from: Adam Roby on February 24, 2022, 01:30:56 PM
Very cool, it has a kind of antique look to it.  Thanks for sharing.
If I am counting right, looks between 10 and 12 feet high, is that about right?  How do you feel about the height?
The windows appear to be sliding, do you hunt with them open, or open for the shot?
Are you using a heater inside?
6x6 approx size?

I love the lever action with open sights.  I target practice with open sights at 50 yards at the range, but can barely make out the sheet of paper, let alone the orange bullseye.  I don't think I would take a shot over 20 yards without worrying about missing some vitals.

I think 12 feet. Good height, as you can see from my fall patchwork the stairs are about finished, and will probably replace with a ladder soon. I think the dimensions are 4x6 plenty of space for two people if you bring someone with you. I think a propane heater would be great, but I just sit in the cold. Nice enough to be out of the wind.

The windows were definitely old used ones, maybe freebees. 2 are double hung, 2 are storm windows, both mounted sideways. I open them if it's not too cold and windy, otherwise just open them as carefully as possible if I see something. Definitely wouldn't want to forget the hearing protection in an enclosed space like that.

I love my 30-30. I am pretty accurate at 50 yards, plus the stand is in the woods anyhow.

It is a really nice place to sit.

Don_P

Stairs, I love it. You've got the room and ladders/long guns isn't the best combination.

Looks like you're braced and uplift restrained by the tree. That's a mixed thing, a swaying tree isn't good on connections. For a freestanding tower X's across the posts from post base to floor will help tremendously. If you're attached to a tree that is probably not a good idea, the old adage "stiffness attracts load" comes into play, if you don't sway with the tree you are trying to brace the tree, that will break the stand.

Cornish cross chickens in a moveable coop. There is so much corn flying through those things the deer trail the coop :D