family cabin

[alex trent]

On keeping the beam on the post.  I notched my posts. Used nails to hold beam on. I nailed in the first layer of the built up beam (2x10) with 4" ring shank nails (4 each post), so I had 2 inches into the post through the beam. Then the same in the next layer, so that was just into the  beam not the post. If you use a triple 2x10 notching and nailing will not work, but your "H" connector idea sounds like it will.

I also had some T brackets that I used on some of the posts where I had a splice in the beam..Simpson 16" and fastened through the beam and the post with machine bolts..5/16" and I think there are 4 on the post and 6 along the beam.  All the connectors a a good ways from the ends of the beam/post.Pretty stout and you might consider that. The beam is not moving off the post.  Actually, I feel good with just the nails.

I think I would have used he H connector as you describe you want to have made, but could not get them here easily.

On the post footings, you could pour concrete with rebar 12"x12" or more down at least 4-5 feet and put the post on top with a connector. The area of the concrete pier depends on the soil. I did not have a great idea of my soil so I widened the bottom of the pier hole to 18x18. That gives a great footing for the post, but the pier/post connection is a really weak link.  The worried me.  Putting the posts in the ground does away with that connection...you need a lot longer posts but should be able to get that where you are and treated the right way. You need to pour a good base for the post to sit on and needs to be bigger than the 6x6 post.

I did x bracing on mine (like your last example)..side to side and front to back. Of courese we have not hd a real test yet, but sure seems solid.

[Don_P]

This is a sketch of what I was talking about. The decking goes over the projecting steel knife plate then the mortised upper post drops over. When it's all bolted up you have a fairly good uplift connection, those connections can get very stressed out on a windy porch.

At the house end of those joists, I do not bring any framing through the house rim. Structurally it is tempting but it creates an almost impossible flashing detail. I've seen more leaks there than not. We are prohibited from attaching to an engineered floor system without a note stating that they were designed for that. Whenever I can bring up posts from the house footings against the house to support the inner rim that is usually the best solution. I still tie to the house but I bear on those posts.

[markert2523]

Thanks Don for the visual.  Makes it very clear.  Seems like it would make a good connection to the posts, but I'm not sure I have the wood working talent for the mortises.

I hadn't thought whether it is ok to put a ledger board onto the rim of the engineered floor system.  I will have to check with the supplier to see if that's allowable. 

[Don_P]

That mortise into the end of the post can be a bear, I'm trying to hide the hardware. A steel plate or Simpson strap on the surface would do the job. I have cut the mortise with a chainsaw which is a very dangerous plunge cut, don't do it.  Another way which is slower and leaves more fuzz in the hole is to get some long drill bits and waste out as much wood as possible by drilling multiple holes and wandering around along the line. Then using 12" Milwaukee "Axe" sawzall blades clean out the mortise using these long stiff blades.
I use rustoleum primer and several coats of their paint on any of those steel parts.

[markert2523]

I met with a structural engineer today to informally talk about the cabin. 

I had always envisioned mounting the front deck beam on top of the posts using a heavy duty simpson connector like this one.  Kind of pricey at about $100 each:


The engineer suggested I could instead hang shorter sections of beam between the posts using heavy duty simpson brackets like this.  Much less expensive but would require using 8x8 posts due to the width:


He suggested the posts could then be braced together with tension cables in an "X" pattern utilizing adjustable turnbuckles.

It sure would make building this deck easier to only have to deal with 8' sections of beam (likely double 2x10's), but I guess I'm a little wary of having nails holding the whole thing up.  I think if I hung the beam that way I would be tempted to bolt some 2x material on the posts under the beam for extra peace of mind.  Unfortunately, having to up the posts to 8x8 would negate any savings from using the less costly connectors and would be a bear to wrestle in to place.

[markert2523]

But.....I did find out that Simpson makes a concealed flange version.  Looks like a pain to install but would allow 6x6 posts.

[markert2523]

Still trying to get the cabin project moving forward.  The club's board has yet to approve the construction so I'm still in the planning stages.  There has been only one cabin built here in the last 50 years or so and it may take some doing to get the membership open to "change".  To help my cause I had a friend sketch up a rendering and floor plan.  The floor plan still has some dimensions that need to be cleaned up a bit.





My contractor is putting together a rough estimate to build the foundation/block wall and everything up to floor level, including PT decking on the front porch and advantech on the main space and back sleeping porch.  He's proposing to put a center foundation and wall to support the floor Ijoists.  Also including a 1/4 basement on a corner of the downhill side. 

Any guesses as to the cost to get everything to floor level?  Initial bid will not include septic, plumbing, electric etc--just the structure.