Preserving floor deck wood

Started by youngins, May 12, 2007, 10:58:42 AM

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youngins

The lumber order for the floor deck materials (Joists, T&G OSB) will arrive Monday.  PA_Kettle suggested to me to preserve the wood since it could be awhile before the structure is weather tight.

My question is what kind or brands of preservative do people think work best?

My thought is to apply the preservative right when the lumber came so it was out of the way from the get go. I understand that, if I make any cuts to that wood - preservative should be re-applied over the exposed cut.

Thanks

Chris
"A spoonfull of sugar helps the medicine go down.."

PEG688

If it's Edge gold  OSB it'll take quite a bit of weather, how long will it be exposed ?? Months or weeks ?? Most treatments won't soak in to new OSB it's already got something on / in it . So IF your going to be months I'd wait a bit let the factory treatment wear a bit then add Benite , or Olympic water seal to it when that breaks down a bit .

Your best bet would be to cover the deck with a tarp if it's going to be long term , that decks not that big , we've bashed this around before . on other threads , but a tarp that held up with a temp ridge board like a tent that will let air move over the subfloor will be your best bet , IMO, Not strapped down tight but" tented up" so any water that does get in can quickly dry out , just move the tarp and temp ridge up as you add walls, till your in the dry ( have the roof on) .    

You still haven't said how your going to lower those pier pads , are they now attached to the beams , or are the beams just sitting in the saddles( not nailed )  in your photos ??

When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


youngins

Thanks PEG - I will try to work out the "tent" strategy.

Planning on getting neighbor to assist with lower piers, once I have done my math to make sure I put them at approx. the right height.

Just as you had mentioned - the piers are very heavy. They are not attached to the beams - I was just trying to fit them in to see if there where any problems.  I noticed I made a major flaw in judgment as far as the built up beam.  The plywood spacers were placed as such as the would be centered where the piers meet the beam.  I also used that same location to secured the beams together with screws.  After putting the beams on the pies, i realized that I did not account for the fasteners which attached the Simpson PB44 connectors to the beam.  

As Homer Simpson would say - DOE!

Chalk it up as a rookie mistake and move on.
"A spoonfull of sugar helps the medicine go down.."

PEG688

Hehhehe well thats the beauty of screws they'll come out easy , well if they don't snap when you try :( Generally all but one will come out and then you figth the darned thing for a 1/2 hour  >:( :-[
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

Thats what they make metal cutting Sawzall blades for. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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PEG688

QuoteThats what they make metal cutting Sawzall blades for. :)


Ya but the snapped off screw is still in the way  >:(
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

MountainDon

If your luck is any good at all Chris, (unlike mine) the ones that are in the way will be the easy ones. leave the others 'vcause as PEG stated there's always at least one that won't cooperate. Use a new driver bit.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.