Siding Question

[ChrisH]

Hello,

I am building a 12x14 1.5 story cabin on a friend's farm, mostly making it up as I go. Things have gone amazingly well so far, and I will post pictures and write a more detailed account at a later date. The walls are framed, the roof (55 degree gable) is sheathed w/ 1" random width white pine, then covered with tar paper. I'm either going to shingle it or use metal. Our local Habitat ReStore has metal roofing from a commercial building in good condition for about $.50 a foot, 3' coverage, 16' lengths. They also have a ton of new in package shingles for free. I think both would be good choices, obviously the shingles would be cheaper, but probably wouldn't last as long and would be heavier? The metal roofing is thicker then the stuff I've used on a goat shed, I expect it will be difficult to work with but would last forever. Any thoughts?

My real question is what to use for siding. My wall height is 8', so I have about 420 square feet to cover. I'm kind of sick of spending money on this cabin (although I've only put in maybe $800 so far), so the cheaper the better. A number of houses around here (mountains of North Carolina) have "mountain siding", which I'd describe as cross sectional 1x12 boards that do not have the sides trimmed. The look is quite rustic and attractive. Is anyone familiar with this siding? Does it need OSB/plywood sheeting under it? If not, should it be backed with tar paper to keep drafts and critters out? The lumber yards I've been to don't list it on their price lists, is it typically as expensive as a regular finished 1x12"

Is it possible to just use 1" random width (median width is ~5.5", ranges from 4" to 12") white pine over tarpaper for siding? The wood I can get for $350/1000 board feet is green rough cut, so I expect it would shrink a bit, leaving cracks. Does siding have to overlap like clapboard or can it all be on the same plane? Whatever I use will have to be painted front and back, correct?

What have other people done for siding?

I'm planning to move in as soon as the siding is in and finish the interior at a more leisurely pace, perhaps with plaster and lathe instead of sheetrock or (god forbid) more random width boxing.

This forum is an amazing resource and inspiration, thanks everyone.

Chris H.

[desdawg]

You can install the 1x siding vertically and use a 1X2 batt to cover the crack. Usually it is all the same width i.e. 1 x 8 boards.

[MountainDon]

You really need the OSB or CDX plywood sheathing to give the structure good rigidity. Then a layer of #30 felt /paper. Over all that you can do almost anything for your finish siding. For the wall area you mentioned 14 sheets would do the job. Around here the OSB would be less than $100, plus tax

I do suppose if there was no code enforcement involved you can do whatever you want.

As for the roof you can't beat free shingles. But I do like metal. Commercial is heavier gauge than residential, so would be a little harder cutting.

[glenn kangiser]

I've heard several names for it -- the one I remember is Adirondack siding.  I used it on my garage.  It will span the distance fine but as mentioned  plywood , OSB or other bracing is necessary.

[ChrisH]

Thanks for the responses. I'm using metal wall bracing straps instead of OSB sheathing and I'm not 100% happy with the stability, it still shifts somewhat when I'm hammering in the loft. I think the addition of some kind of siding or perhaps cut in 1x4 diagonal braces will firm it up.

Vertical siding is appealing, but probably would require OSB sheathing to nail to and that would push the price up some. Heck, building a (tiny) house for less than $1,000 is nothing to complain about.

I called a couple of lumber yards asking for Adirondack siding by name but no one had heard of it and no one stocked anything like it. Must be called something else around here, as it is not uncommon.

Chris H.

[PA-Builder]

You may want to try lumber companies that actually do the sawing of logs into rough lumber, as compared to the companies that just sell finished lumber (e.g. Lowes, HD will not have what you are looking for).

[John_C]

Live edge siding and Featherboard are two other names I know of for that material.


A board which has been sawn from a log but has not yet had the edges dressed is called a flitch.  A mill may well know it as Flitch Sawn Lumber. Flitches for siding are commonly a full 4/4 thick. It should be relatively inexpensive.

[glenn kangiser]

A small local mill would be able to make it - just someone with a small saw sawmill.  I use 5/8" but don't need strength- just something to cover the sides.