Started by MountainDon, December 20, 2006, 02:03:09 AM
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Quote from: redhead101551 on September 29, 2009, 04:45:39 AMIs your place your week-end retreat?
Quote from: MountainDon on October 21, 2007, 11:58:40 PMAnother weekend, another small thing attended to. Up to now my small generator has been housed in a makeshift shelter of stacked firewood and OSB scraps. It now has a "home". I used recycled 1x4's and 2x4's, some old 6x6 PT landscape timbers, PT 2x4 leftover from the gazebo, metal roofing leftover from the house, and some salvaged pieces of "new" 2x3. There's a cooling exhaust air vent on the right side. I'll be adding one more panel next time up in the mountains.The top is hinged so I can fill the generators top mounted integral gas tank.The sections of 1x4 for the doors were so sun baked and dried out they split easily. Even pre-drilling holes before inserting the screws didn't prevent more splits. So I used some polyurethane glue to help secure the door boards to the horizontal battens. Some of the glue oozed thru some splits. I'm out of old boards right now so have to be content with the glue marks. :'(\\Rear view showing the rear ventilation opening. The rear bottom panel is hinged for access to gasoline storage. The generator exhaust exits through the opening. I have an auxiliary super quiet muffler I have to refit. It will be outside the box. The rear vent opening will have a 6 to 7 inch wide "shed roof" installed next time up.*********************It was dang cold Sat night. Thermometer read 26 degrees at 7:30 AM. By 11 AM it had warmed up to a whopping 38 degrees. Then it very briefly snowed for 20 seconds or so. Nothing to photograph. My old abused (do as I recommend, not as I do ) RV batteries (dating from spring 2003) did not like the cold at all. I dragged them home and will see if a desulphation cycle or two can coax a few more months of life out of them. The cold sucked some of the life out of them, and the RV furnace sucked the balance out of them overnight. :'( Hate to buy new ones now... and then have them sit through Dec - March/April if we can't get back up there because of snow.
Quote from: MountainDon on July 29, 2008, 10:27:34 PM... along with a row of center span blocking. ...
Quote from: ScottA on September 30, 2009, 07:42:51 PMYou should put solid blocking over all beams. Keeps the joists from twisting under the floor. They say you don't need it if the ratio of board width to thickness is 5 to 1 or less. ie. a 2x6 is less than 5 to 1. I'd did it anyway though.
Quote from: MountainDon on October 01, 2009, 12:41:38 AMI saw that; wondered if you would. Good. I think Scott was thinking that if the span was wide enough and there was a center beam as in the 24' x 32' Lake Cabin in Oklahoma topic, then there should be a row of blocking over the central beam. You would not need blocking over your two inset side beams as they are close enough to the ends where they are held by the rim joist. BTW, you will sometimes see bracing that is made from 2x3 or 4 material and nailed in place in a "X" pattern. You also see the same thing but with Mr. $impson's metal bracing. These are sometimes used in long span joists, but over a central beam the blocking should be solid 2x o the same depth as the joists.Yes an air nailer is very handy. Mine fit nicely between the joists, except for the one at the end where the 30 foot length made the last joist bay smaller. I did not pound too many of my nails by hand. I used it for just about anything and everything. Speaking of air nailers, just in case you use one. If there was an inspector coming by one thing they should be looking or is overdriven nails. When the wood fibers are compressed and torn strength is lost. They particularly look for over driven nails on sheathing. I set my air gun pressure kind of low. It would drive most nails and stop flush with the surace, but every so often the nail would need a whack by hand. That's better than overdriving them and having less strength (and a red tag, if there was an inspector). When they are overdriven you need to place another nail nearby.BTW,6D for walls & floors, 6" spacing on edges, 12" in the field8D for roof, 6" spacing on edges, 12" in the fieldI use ring shank nails or sheathing as they never work loose on their own, unlike common nails
Quote from: MountainDon on October 01, 2009, 11:09:15 AMYou were lucky it was only a flesh wound, as they say. They can be just about as dangerous as a firearm. But they do save the arm.
Quote from: MountainDon on September 30, 2009, 06:33:54 PMWow, that's a little reach back in time. We still have that gen box and the Yamaha generator too, only now it has many hundred more hours. Up to 750 I think, give or take.There's now a little shed style roof over that rear opening to help keep any rain out.Enjoy!
Quote from: MountainDon on October 02, 2009, 01:53:20 PMI printed out the maintenance schedule from Yamaha on a sheet of paper and taped that under the lift up lid on the generator box. I mostly follow that. I change the oil about every 100 hours. I also added a large capacity automobile fuel filter. That I'll probably never have to change. I use Mobil One synthetic 10W30 oil. I've used Mobil One pretty well in any 4 stroke engine from the lawn mower to cars and trucks since the early 80's. The only ones I didn't use it in was one that burned and leaked too much oil; the RV.When I could foresee continued use over a period o time, like spring through fall in previous years I never worried about the fuel. I used it fast enough to keep it from going bad. Now that our power needs are being met by the PV system the generator will see much less use. My plan is to run it once a month, at/near the beginning opf any month. With that in mind I'm doing two things with the fuel. Number 1, I'm being sure to add a dose of Sta-Bil to each and every purchase of fuel. Previously I would only be sure to add Sta-Bil to gas that was likely to sit stored for several months. Number 2, I will close the fuel supply valve whenever I run the generator and let the carb run dry. Previously I only did that in the fall and winter as it was used frequently enough in summer to make that unnecessary.BTW, I also run small engines lie the chainsaw dry when they are not likely to be used in the next couple weeks. I've ound that if I do that I'm never plagued by carb/fuel problems.