Nice!

There!  Level floor

I was sure I replied to this, but don't see my reply now.  Hmmm...  
Looks much better, thanks.  What software did you use to rotate the image?

Quote from: Adam Roby on June 27, 2023, 11:22:21 AMWhat software did you use to rotate the image?

A 20+ year-old version of Photoshop. 

On a 10' wide structure, what spacing would you recommend for rafter ties? I was thinking having two ties attached to the top of the walls, evenly spaced, and will also have collar ties on every rafter with ridge beam.  Since I was not planning on any jacks from those rafter ties to the ridge beam, I suppose dimensions are irrelevant?  2x4's for example?

I believe code says every rafter needs a rafter tie.  With the small building you have I think you could skip every other without any significant consequences.   

You could also consider raising them up (keep them in the lower third) if they are getting in your way....

If snow loads are not s factor ties on every other rafter pair might be a safe bet.

Rafter ties can be raised up as far as 1/3 the vertical distance. Note that raising increases the stress on the rafters and the rafter size may need to be increased.

I don't have access to the bookmarks I need right now to link to the chapter in the IRC. Maybe later today

https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P2/chapter-8-roof-ceiling-construction

That is the IRC section on rafter sizing. Table R802.4.1.(9) has the adjustments for raising the rafter ties. Raised to the full 1/3 the table shows an SPAN adjustment factor of 0.67.  That means the allowable span listed in a table is reduced by a ),67 factor. So If the table states the max span for a certain size rafter is 20 feet, the adjustment is..... 20 ft x 0.67 = 13.4 feet as the adjusted maximum span.

There is also an adjustment for how many nails are required for the rafter/rafter tie heel joint and I am sorry I cannot locate it tight now.

Was about to upload an updated image, but imgur seems to not be working for me anymore.  I can't seem to add images. 

You can upload an image directly to the country plans server. At the lower right, just under the field where we type a new message, there is an "ADD FILES" button. Click that and drag the image into the narrow space with the "Click or drag files here to attach them" notice.

I added a non-relevant image as it was handy on my desktop, just to show how it will appear.  Click on the displayed image to enlarge.

I can see the "Add Files" button in the "How To", but on my screen all I see are the "Preview" and "Post" buttons.  
Do I have enough permission to upload images?  I think I am being prevented to do it by the forum.

Oh, that might be correct.

It should be possible to insert images hosted on image host services. I have trouble doing that from imgbb.com when on my phone and I am away from home so can't check on my pc.

I could post a url to a hosted image though... Test...

https://ibb.co/x2vkdpG

Well, not sure why imgur was not working from home last night, but it seems to be working from the office today so I will take advantage.



It's not much to look at, but it should be weather tight until I can get back to it in the spring.  
There is 5/8" plywood sheathing over 12" OC rafters with a doubled center beam.  If I can get back soon enough, I will add the rafter ties, as for now there are only 2 pcs of 2"x4"x10' spanning the width evenly spaced and screwed to the top plates.  Hopefully that's enough to keep it together if the snow hits soon.  I only installed the front window for now.  Both sides are framed for windows which are already purchased, but I knew I would not have time, so I never cut out the plywood.  It never looks as impressive when it's this far along, but working alone in the middle of the woods is not easy.  

I still need to add a metal roof, some possibility of this year but likely only next spring (time restraints).
I did the soffits along the sides of the building to block out any larger critters, still need to do the gable walls.
Facia and drip edge also need to be done, but I needed to keep the bare wood to staple the tarp to for now.

Good to see you get an image posted. Looks good so far. I'll hope for an easy winter for you, weather-wise.

Looking great!

Looking good!  Hope the trees help block the wind from trying to remove your tarp.....

Thanks fellas!  Indeed, I hope the tarp holds up.  If it does not tear, it should be ok.  I was thinking to double or triple tarp it, but at that point I might as well just add the roofing.  I am going on a hunting trip starting this Friday so my brain in not in build mode right now.  Once I get back, I will see what the forecast looks like, and check with the metal company to see what kind of delays there are for the roofing.  I also want to build some additional scaffolding for safety, as the metal will be too slippery to climb on.  

I learned a valuable lesson with Covid when the border closed down.  I had no access to the cabin for a couple of years and it fell apart.  Now, anytime I leave there, I try to imagine I won't be back for a while and I do my best to protect everything.  It takes forever to tarp and untarp stuff every weekend, but at least I shouldn't be left hanging with my proverbial pants down.  

Looks great. Love seeing some build pics on countryplans!

It looks like you secured the tarp very well so I think you should be OK.  Something to look into is getting some used billboard tarps, they are really heavy duty and cheap.  I used one on a cabin I built to get me through a winter and I was very happy with the results...

I used the strongest tarp I could find at my local Canadian Tire.  These things tend to hold up really well on my tractor, where others fail after a single season, they tend to last for years.  That said, I draped a 20x40 over my main cabin last fall, and a few weeks ago it ripped off in a storm, so I am now questioning their durability.

I had a rather odd question.  I am not sure I can explain this, or even draw what I mean, but let me try.
I need to vent the attic.  The easiest way would be to add a vent on both gable walls, but since I have jacks holding up the ridge beam, I would need two (one on either side) otherwise it will look lopsided.  When I bought the soffits, the Home Depot where I live only had vented soffit, so I bought it for the gable overhangs as well as the normally vented soffit area.  Since they will be vented, I now wonder if I could drill out some 2" holes in the gable walls within that overhang near the ridge for the venting.  They would not be visible from outside, and I could make as many as needed based on the required square footage of venting needed... only caveat is that the airflow would not be direct, it would go down a bit...  would that work? 

This is my feeble attempt at explaining this using paint.

My 2 cents, unless you're heating the thing all winter I doubt you're going to have ice dam issues.

Are you going to have an unfinished attic space or is this a vaulted ceiling up to the ridge?

Either way, I'd lean towards venting the eaves while everything is accessible and then only bother doing the gable vents if you have issues with ice damming. In reality, I think rodent prevention is more important for a seasonal camp. Just my opinion!

In reality, if I even install any heat, it will be 3-4 weekends per year, and maybe one trip in the winter to check things out and take snow off the roof, etc.  Rodent prevention is my main goal, and I will be installing anti-rodent trim and fine wire mesh anywhere there's a chance they can get in.  My old cabin reeks because of these things, I need to keep them out at all costs.

I am still on the fence with the attic.  I definitely need rafter ties, so either the attic starts in the lower 1/3, or I install more bracing at the top plate level and put the ceiling higher up.  Either way I want some air movement under the ridge beam so that a cross wind can help ventilate between the gable ends.

Is it an attic or a loft?

There are ways now to just insulate the roof well and have no venting...I think it was MD that showed me some stuff on that years ago.  I for one, won't do a vented roof in the woods again.  It's just a bug and rodent entrance.

For me, I'll go with two layers of R10Foam and vapor barrier and move on.  Other locals have done that for years without issue on vaulted cabin ceilings.

Quote from: OlJarhead on October 24, 2023, 12:51:14 PMIs it an attic or a loft?

There are ways now to just insulate the roof well and have no venting...I think it was MD that showed me some stuff on that years ago.  I for one, won't do a vented roof in the woods again.  It's just a bug and rodent entrance.

For me, I'll go with two layers of R10Foam and vapor barrier and move on.  Other locals have done that for years without issue on vaulted cabin ceilings.

Thanks for the feedback. I thought I had replied to this but seems I did not. I am sitting here watching your YouTube channel with my daughter, just by coincidence.

I am still not sure if I will make a small loft or just an attic. I need to get up the ladder and see how much space I'd have once insulated and vented (or not).  I definitely want some storage up there, or at least a hiding spot for an air gun or more expensive tools.  At this point I am working out my 12 VDC requirements as well as how I will connect my generator for any 120v requirements (building or topping up batteries).  Once that's worked out I will insulate and then have to decide on the attic area.

I've been playing around a bit with my 3d printer.  It looks better in person, but I wanted to have a light on all 4 sides of the cabin.  I have 9W 12-VDC LED E27 bulbs which will go in back and 2 sides, with an 18W in front which is really bright.  Having 4 switches inside may be confusing, so I made this light switch plate / controller to do the job.  It will be mounted on the right-side wall as you walk into the cabin.



Essentially, it is the cabin.  The switch on the right is for the front, top is right, left if back, bottom is left.  I wired up some LEDs to show when a light is lit, which should help me from leaving them on accidentally as well.  Once I know the siding color and metal roofing color to compliment, I may even paint this to match. 

These are the kind of strange projects that I will be keeping busy with during the winter while planning for next spring.  If we do get a "warm" day during the Christmas holidays, I may go up and do a bit of wiring or insulation... whatever I am most eager to start.