16 x 28 in Athens, VT

Started by cabinfever, April 21, 2009, 06:13:41 PM

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Homesick Gypsy

Here's a sketch I posted on a while back.   

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=8828.msg114460#msg114460

If the link doesn't work, search my posts for one called "My 16 x 26 version of John's Builder's Cottage". 

I've added two feet and decided to wait on the extra room for scrapbooking and family gatherings. 

I've planned to put a small wood stove (maybe a marine stove) on a raised platform directly across from the day bed, but may put the gas heater there.  That would free up space for the stairs.

Texas Tiny Houses did a rounded loft over their kitchen/bath area with a "book/stair".  There's a picture of it on here somewhere but I couldn't find it. 

I think spiral stairs would be really cool to decorate at Christmas. 


cabinfever

Looks good, gypsy. 16x28 looks big enough right now, but then the place is empty - I'm thinking it will be a lot smaller with furniture. Another 2' in width will give you more breathing room, but have you thought about how an 18' width will impact the way its constructed? I stopped at 16' because I didn't want a beam under the floor, and I could get a lot of dimensional lumber in 8, 16 or 24' lengths. With 18', you may find you're having to buy a lot in 24' with a lot of resulting waste, and you'll most likely need a beam. Not a big deal, but things are easier the closer you stick to standard material sizes. If you're going wider than 16, you might want to consider 24' instead - the cost of framing materials are relatively cheap as a percentage of the total cost. (Using larger materials becomes more challenging if you are building it yourself, though - another reason why I stopped at 16'.)

I considered the library ladder idea, but we concluded that the lofts would be a lot more accessible (to us and others) if we had some sort of stair rather than a ladder, hence the spiral.

To my thinking, a woodstove is critical to the 'feel' of a cabin (as is a porch), and so its a non-negotiable for me. I'm thinking I'm going with the smallest Jotul, although we will also have a wall-mounted, direct vent heater.


MountainDon

re: 18 foot width.  A width of 16 feet worked for us as well (15.75 actually  ::)  )  but if 18 feet fits one's use better it can be done without a center beam. Partly it will depend on what species and grades are readily available and whether or not 18 or 20 foot lengths are available. Here I could get 20 foot lengths of 2x12 even from one of the big box brands, at times. Sometimes they have 20's in Hem-Fit which will just cover the width in #2 grade.  We also have a real lumber yard that stocks 20 foot 2x12 as a more or less normal item. The AWC calculator makes ity easy to see what species would work. The cut off from a 20 foot 2x12 can then be used for blocking between floor joists, so there is not much waste. My waste went for kindling for the VC Aspen wood stove.

We didn't want a loft, so no comment on that, except for, an extra 2 feet of width will also increase loft headroom some.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

cabinfever

Good point, Don - in New England, I was limited to Canadian SFP and the loading wasn't as good as Doug Fir. As far as lengths, I suppose it just takes some pre-planning to ensure that as little as possible goes to waste.

Homesick Gypsy

cabinfever - It's just me and it's for retirement so I think as far as square footage and arrangement it should be fine.  Might add a bedroom to the right of the bathroom.  Door would be where the clothes armoire is.  I added the two feet for the clothes dryer in the bathroom and room for a small table near the kitchen.

I have an open version of John's 20 x 30 with only the bathroom enclosed but I can't get photobucket to cooperate for anything, and I don't want to hijack your thread.  One thing I'm trying to accomplish is being able to heat and cool most of the whole place with one or two wall units.  Don't want to be retired on a limited income and have to shell out $10,000 to $15,000 for a ch/a unit.  If a wall unit goes out and can't be repaired, I can run down to wally world and get a new one.



hillsvillehermit