Framing window with PT wood

Started by archimedes, May 17, 2011, 01:15:59 PM

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archimedes

I've got to replace the windows on the front of my wood frame house.  One large picture window straddled by two sidelights.

The existing window is clearly an owner built contraption.  The picture window is just a sheet of glass inserted between the studs with some 3/4" quarter round holding it in place.  The window has apparently been leaking for some time (no surprise) and some of the frame is damaged and rotted away.

I can either;

1)  Rebuild it the same way,  using the existing glass,  and hope to make it more water tight than before.

2)  Tear back the siding and put a window,  with fins,  mounted over the sheathing so that the plane of the window sheds water better.  More work and money but probably a better solution.

Also,  is there any benefit or pitfalls in replacing the framing with PT wood?

Any feedback from the experienced people here would be appreciated

Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.

MountainDon

If you do the job right, using a real window unit and flash it correctly, who needs PT wood?

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


archimedes

Here in FL we have a major issue with termites and moisture.  I can control the moisture,  to some extent,   but can't do anything about the termites,  unless i use PT.   Drywood termites are very common around here.



Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.

MountainDon

Use PT compatible fasteners then.

What about all the other regular wood in the framing though?  Seems like a piece or two by the window isn't going to be much help in the big picture.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Don_P

A good dose of borate on everything you can get to would be another option, or borate treated lumber. I've noticed our Lowes is now advertising it.

I also have no problem with site built fixed glass, it just need to be done properly. I have 4 large panes waiting for install when the roads clean up.


archimedes

#5
I am concerned about the warping and shrinking of PT around the windows.

Unfortunately borate treated wood is not commonly available around here.  I don't know why,  since it seems like it would be useful around here.  I have found some borate that I can do it myself though.

I priced new windows and would love to save that cost since the glass I have is perfectly good if I can re-use it.

Any suggestions on how to do it "right" Don?

My plan was to build a 2X6 box and insert it into the window opening (my walls are 2X4 framing) so that it protrudes beyond the siding.  Attached 3/4" quarter round inside the box at the very front edge.  Then place the glass,  from the inside,   behind the quarter round,  and finish with trim on the inside - essentially sandwiching the glass between the 3/4" quarter round and the interior trim.  I'll attach some form of drip cap above the top of the box on the exterior.  Then trim around the exterior portion of the box.  And chalk with lots of silicone .
Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.

bayview


   You can purchase vinyl moulding from Lowes.   It is the only thing I will use for the overhead garage door jambs and moulding.   I use the brick moulding for entry doors and around windows . . .    I would use the vinyl over PT . . .

/.
    . . . said the focus was safety, not filling town coffers with permit money . . .

archimedes

Just discovered that PVC trim at the HD near me.  Thanks for the suggestion.  That puts things in a whole new light. 

Now to find a beveled PVC windowsill.
Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.

bayview

Quote from: archimedes on May 19, 2011, 08:23:48 AM
Just discovered that PVC trim at the HD near me.  Thanks for the suggestion.  That puts things in a whole new light. 

Now to find a beveled PVC windowsill.

    They have the moulding up to 6" wide. . .    Make your own bevel by running it through the table saw . . .

/.
    . . . said the focus was safety, not filling town coffers with permit money . . .


PEG688


  Make a wood sill ,

 





























 





 

Gotta love a old farm house!!

 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

archimedes

Thanks for the pics.

That was definately my "before".  Hopefully that will be what my "after" looks like too.   d*
Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.

archimedes

It also helps to have a really nice table saw.   ;)
Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.

PEG688

Quote from: archimedes on May 21, 2011, 01:13:03 PM
It also helps to have a really nice table saw.   ;)

Yes it does , and lots of jigs/ inserts / other things :




 


 


 









 


Then there began the blue phase after a generous gift from C/Plans,



Oh and for ripping P.Lam / Formica ,






 




When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

archimedes

Nice,  I know what I want for Christmas.   :)

Peg,
What did you use to attach the glass to the window sill that you made?  Or did the glass already have a frame?

I'm dealing with a sheet of glass with no frame whatsoever.
Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.


rwanders

 [cool] Just finished installing marble sills in all the windows in our in-town home----looks very nice, will never rot, never need paint and were quite easy to install--thinking about putting marble on the outside too. Anyone had experience using marble for outer sills? Bought them at Lowes---$8 each. Only had to cut the 3/4" thick sills to length using wet tile saw and they slid right into place with marble adhesive plus small beads of clear silicone caulk. You do need to get the adhesive made for the translucent white marble---regular construction adhesive will stain marble. 

Marble sills used to be very common in Florida---hold up well against bright sun beating on them.  I think they would also avoid water damage to wooden, plaster or sheet rock sills in windows that get a lot of condensation in the winter.
Rwanders lived in Southcentral Alaska since 1967
Now lives in St Augustine, Florida

PEG688

Quote from: archimedes on May 21, 2011, 02:42:22 PM
Nice,  I know what I want for Christmas.   :)

Peg,
What did you use to attach the glass to the window sill that you made?  Or did the glass already have a frame?

I'm dealing with a sheet of glass with no frame whatsoever.

That sill slipped under the  wider window in the photo.   But generally on that old style of window , you build a frame two side , one head one sill , that assembly gets set in the RO , then the glass is "stopped in", using interior stops  , and a interior "stool" is added on the inside as well.   There's lots of books Modern Carpentry is a book I have on page 234 they have a drawing of how a window is made , similar to what you're doing.

  If you look around you'll find something that shows it.   


  On the marble out side for a sill sure it could work , there'd be hoop jumps to it, But the stone generally isn't a integral part of the window, it's just tucked under the flange and caulked , the window is installed "normally".

  On a window you have  a lot of parts that have names most people don't understand , sill , parting rails , stopped , muntin bars , check rails , stool , etc One of the most common mistakes is sill and stool , the sill is outside , generally sloped to shed water , the stool is inside  generally installed level so things can sit on the stool.

  It's not  overly complicated, but there are a lot of parts that go into a window.             
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Ernest T. Bass

That was a really nice looking job, peg! So, how do you tear all of that framing lumber out without damaging the drywall?

Our family's homestead adventure blog; sharing the goodness and fun!

PEG688

Quote from: Ernest T. Bass on May 22, 2011, 08:18:57 AM
That was a really nice looking job, peg! So, how do you tear all of that framing lumber out without damaging the drywall?


When you remodel a lot you learn , or should learn , how to cut JUST thru  barely the drywall , so I cut the nails thru the plates and /or rough sills , sometimes if there's room I'll slide the blade between the stud and drywall and cut the drywall screws or nails , generally once the framing nails are cut I just wiggle the 2x side to side which loosen the drywall fastener and it pulls thru the drywall. There sometimes a small nail head type hole to patch on the inside , but on jobs like this it better to keep the  inside as undamaged as possible.   

On this job I left the base board and interior apron that under the interior stool / sill in place so I could feel the blade tapping the back side of those pieces as I cut the framing nails free.

The rot in ways helps out with removal , some times your just vac-ing / sweeping out crumbs of rotten wood , grab the drywall nail with some front end nips and pull it out :)

Thanks for the kind words. c*
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

rwanders

Quote from: rwanders on May 21, 2011, 03:42:45 PM
[cool] Just finished installing marble sills in all the windows in our in-town home----looks very nice, will never rot, never need paint and were quite easy to install--thinking about putting marble on the outside too. Anyone had experience using marble for outer sills? Bought them at Lowes---$8 each. Only had to cut the 3/4" thick sills to length using wet tile saw and they slid right into place with marble adhesive plus small beads of clear silicone caulk. You do need to get the adhesive made for the translucent white marble---regular construction adhesive will stain marble. 

Marble sills used to be very common in Florida---hold up well against bright sun beating on them.  I think they would also avoid water damage to wooden, plaster or sheet rock sills in windows that get a lot of condensation in the winter.


thanks for terminology lesson PEG----marble "stools"----really like them
Rwanders lived in Southcentral Alaska since 1967
Now lives in St Augustine, Florida