framing for a pocket door

[rdzone]

I am currently framing the first floor of the universal 2 story.  It calls for a pocket door leading into the laundry area.  I have not framed for a pocket door so I am unsure how large to make the opening.  (No I do not have a pocket door kit yet)  I read somewhere twice as wide as the door plus several inches.  I believe what I read also said add several inches in height also to allow for the track and any finished flooring (ie tile or hardwood).  Any insights would be greatly appreciated!  

[hobbiest]

Sounds like you read some good info.  It would help to go measure a kit, or simply talk to a manufacturer/retailer and get a RO size.  It is always easier to make the opening smaller BTW.

[okie-guy]

Home Depot or Lowes sells a kit for about $25.00. This doesn't include door, but has a set of framing plans. You need to buy a kit first beause the framing is done with 1X4 's on the pocet side of the door. This is so a door can slide in between the 1X4's, and you need to put the slide in before you sheet rock. Good Luck with your project.

[peg_688]

Seeing this post is sort of old in builders terms  , Johnson Postmen are the best I've seen , the one with the steel reinforced "studs" ,


Door width x2 +1= R.O. width :  Height 84 1/2"

Read the instruction on where to cut and what to cut , read them twice , one of our newbie who "knows it all" cut the head , to short of course , and then put the "metal studs" in on layout from the other wall studs .

So read , then reread the instructions .

On the interior finish  trim "sticky " thread I have some tips on trimming out pocket doors you may want to read as well.



Link : http://www.amazon.com/1500-POCKET-DOOR-FRAME-125lbs/dp/B0006FTKBE/ref=sr_1_5/105-3709327-5822023?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1180889336&sr=1-5



I screw in all the parts , no nails , plumb the exterior two by where the door goes into the pocket , space the other ones for  EQ. space . I also fill in between the metal studs with 3/4 x 2"  material , if one side is beside say a closet where you'll be trying to put in shelf cleats put in some 3/4 " backing plywood from the header to the floor then you can screw your closet cleating into that backer plywood , with the right lenght screws of course , so they done hit / scratch , hold the door into the opening.

Ya DAH you say , it's been done  






 

[hobbiest]

don't forget to switch to short screws for the drywall, or you could end up screwing your new door shut.

[rdzone]

Thanks for the information.  As PEG said it was a little late (in bulders terms) but highly appreciated.  I went and bought the kit PEG suggested last thursday as I took Friday off to frame interior walls.  I used the instructions from the kit to frame the pocket door openings.  

I am moving along all of my 1st floor walls are framed, including all of my interior walls.  I have preped all of the joists and rimboard and should be moving on to the second floor next week end.  My goal for next weekend is to have the second floor deck done.  Then on to the second floor walls, weather permitting.  

[peg_688]

Sorry about that RD don't know how I missed it . Sounds like you got er done , you can go back and tune it up , dbl. check it , I do'nt generally set the Pocket door frames till the roof is on and a I have some "free / less stress / less going" , on time .

Have  a great day

[rdzone]

Thanks Peg.  I wasn't planning on installing the frame until later as you said.  Thanks again for the advise.  The only thing I am going to have to figure out is how to fir out the one pocket door.  I could get a 1560 unit for a 2x6 wall.  Everyone here in Alaska carries the 1500 unit and said that is what all the builders use.  I don't think it will be that hard, but I won't worry about it until I am further down the road.  My major goal is to get the roof on.

[peg_688]

Thanks Peg.  I wasn't planning on installing the frame until later as you said.  Thanks again for the advise.  The only thing I am going to have to figure out is how to fir out the one pocket door.  I could get a 1560 unit for a 2x6 wall.  Everyone here in Alaska carries the 1500 unit and said that is what all the builders use.  I don't think it will be that hard, but I won't worry about it until I am further down the road.  My major goal is to get the roof on.

Why not buy the standard set up , use only the track , use nice straight 2x4 studs on the flat with a 2x2 top and bottom "plate" , you'll have extra room in the pocket which you can "cover up " with the interior jamb piece's  at trim out.  

It would be a better pocket door / strong wall unit that way.  The way I figger it you'd need to add a 1/4" ripping / plywood piece to the track part to flush up  the on the flat studs with 2x6 wall framing.  

[rdzone]

PEG

is there such a thing  "use nice straight 2x4 studs on the flat"    Thanks for the input I will keep in my to do file.