Gable overhang and gable eave questions

[Alan Gage]

Putting up a shop at my place and am using trusses. Didn't think to ask for dropped gable trusses and now it's too late. Originally wanted a 2' overhang to match the side walls but I realize that's probably out of the question now. Is my only option left to build a ladder to support the overhang and tack it to the wall? Am I going to be safe with a 1' overhang if I went this route?

Also, I would like to build a full length eve on the gable end 2' deep to match the overhang on the side walls (so they carry around the corner). I don't think framing this is going to be a a problem but I'm trying to figure out in what order everything needs to be done. From what I can see in pictures scoured from the internet it looks like the gable eave should be completely framed and roofed before the main roof and even before the gable overhangs are installed. Is this correct?

Thanks,

Alan

[Davegmc]

I think your gable overhang options will be dictated from your snow loads. My area has a 95 psf ground snow load. Most people support gable overhangs with gluelams. I didn't want to use glulams so my inspector limited me to a 12" overhang. I had to frame lookouts, which was quite a bit of work. 2 x 6 lookouts were required every 2 ft or alternatively 2 x 4 lookouts every 16". The lookouts definately have to be done before you sheeth the roof. Lot of work!

[Alan Gage]

Thanks for the response Dave. I assume the lookouts your referring to are notched into the first one or two rafters? Since I have trusses I can't do that so I'm looking for other options.

Alan

[Don_P]

It is dictated by your snow load, but, the gable truss is really a frame that is supported by the walls below, you can notch it 1-1/2" deep x 3-1/2 or 5-1/2" wide and lay 2x lookouts flatways from the last inboard truss, through the notch in the gable truss and out to the fly (barge) rafter in areas with low to moderate snow/wind loads. I've done 2' overhangs this way, it isn't great but it's better than a hog trough hung on the sidewall. You can also make craftsman style brackets that attach to the wall to help support them. Slipping the first truss inboard the full 2' from each sidewall regardless of layout will help with the cantilever even if it costs you a bit of sheathing ply, you don't want 2' outboard and only 1' inboard.

Frame the lower wraparound overhang and sheath it, then frame the upper gable overhang and sheath it, fascia and roof the lower overhang and flash that up onto the framing of the fly then apply its' fascia over the upturned leg of the flashing from the lower overhang, drip edge, and then paper and roofing.

[Alan Gage]

Thanks for that, Don.  My gable trusses are structural and identical to the rest of them except for a couple horizontal pieces 2' OC for nailing the sheathing. As far as I can see the gable end walls aren't going to carry any of the load unless I added vertical members to the truss.

I spent some time driving around today looking at other people's buildings and saw quite a few with no or very little gable overhang and they didn't look that bad. Cold weather is coming, maybe I'll save myself some time and skip it after all.

Alan

[Patrick]

I used manufactured trusses and just notched them for a 2x4 to sit flat around 24" o.c. extened that in 14.5" to nail to the first truss then nailed 2x6 for the facia,we did both gable ends then installed the remaining trusses and trimmed the overhangs then sheathed the whole thing. All overhangs are 20". I have also built the ladder style overhang on my shop they are 16" I sheathed the gable end first then built the ladder and lag bolted those on then trimmed the overhangs and sheathed the roof. Building is about 10 years old with no issues the shop is in MN and we get lots of snow and I never rake the roof.

[Alan Gage]

Thanks Patrick. I think the bolt on ladder is going to win in this case but I'll be keeping it short. Earlier this week the weather forecast took a turn for the worst and I started taking off work early to try and get it sheathed before the rain hit. I was afraid if I took the extra time to look into notching the trusses and taking the time to actually do it it might set the schedule back by a week since they're calling for a few days of wind and rain. Got chased off the roof last night by a quick rain storm with about 65% of the roof sheathed. The rain held off most of the day today and I got the rest of it sheathed and the underlayment nailed down, literally finishing just when the rain started.  Now I can work on other projects inside where it's dry.

I let the sheathing run long over the gable ends so I'll slip the ladders in from underneath and then trim the sheathing.

Alan