Pole building a small house

[JStrobel]

Hello,

I have been frequenting this fantastic website for about a year and a half now, and now I have a question.

I am looking to build a pole built house. I am wondering if 6x6s sunk 48'' in soni tube with cement (frost up north) with 10' above, every 6', will be sturdy enough with angle bracing at each intersection. I will attach 2 2x10s let in to the outside for the rim joist and 2 2x10 in the  center of the home,  then attach the joists on the same plane  as the rim joists with joist hangers.

Of course 8x8s will be stronger, but will it be necessary. I will have a 12 pitch roof with collar ties. Id like to build 20x40, one floor open floor plan with vaulted ceilings. Thanks for your time and responses. I couldnt have found a better website for all of this.

JOHN

[John Raabe]

Welcome to the forum JStrobel 

I'm not sure what the reason would be to go to pole framing on this house. It seems that a sturdy treated pier foundation (as you are proposing) with standard braced frame construction for the wall framing would be easier to build and finish. You would need a ridge beam for your vaulted ceiling and that would probably need a couple of interior posts. Those could be eliminated if you truss framed the roof.

This would be an extension of my single story 20' x 30' plan HERE.

[JStrobel]

Thank you for the response, that is the floor plan I wanted to expand to 20x40. I will go the route you seggested as it does seem easier to build and finish. Thanks again.

[Squirl]

John makes a good point.  You would need large beams to run in between the posts at the floor level and at the roof level, instead of just at the floor level.  And the stick framed would probably be sturdier.  In addition, PT posts sunk in concrete do not last as long as attached to the top through a simpson bracket. 

[Don_P]

Bear in mind that either way proposed here is non code so you're really just getting our opinions.
There is very little bracing most of the pier and beam foundations seen here, this is a serious flaw which will very likely show itself if the house ever encounters high wind or an earthquake.

If the house has braced walls with full height posts protruding down to the foundation it will be far better equipped to resist lateral forces. This presents its own set of design challanges which is why either one is best handled by an engineer and the building code specifies a continuous perimeter foundation.

I have no problem with you running the ground contact rated posts down to a footing well underground. You'll pick up some additional amount of bracing from the soil. If at some future point the post rots at grade, cut it off, excavate the lower portion, pour a pier to that level and reconnect the post. A footing at the bottom of the post below frost level, gravel fill, and a concrete collar around the post at grade that is sloped and sealed will provide more bracing without totally immersing the post in a pool of water. This is one post frame detail.

You proposed notching a 5-1/2" post 3" deep for a double rim. Although this is considerably stronger than sitting atop a fully cut off short pier it doesn't leave much meat. If you notch from both faces of a corner post it leaves a 2.5"x2.5" "post" to run from there up. I'd be more comfortable if you notched one ply deep and used a hanger with inturned ears for the remaining ply of the rim. This would leave a 4x4 or 4x6 section remaining. I would still brace the posts below the floor in both directions, this could be a treated ply skirt incorporated into the sheathing plan.

If you stick frame above the floor between the posts an upper beam is not required.