subfloor spacing

Started by dogneck, August 19, 2008, 07:06:46 AM

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dogneck

I haven't nailed the subfloor down yet, but somehow it just looks like the subfloor will be getting slightly off the 16" center floor joists at the third sheet.   Your supposed to leave a 1/4" gap on the ends. 

Since I have about one hundred nails in each floor joist, I cannot remove and replace.   Can I sister a 2x4 along the side of the 2x10 floor joists, so the 4x8 subfloor will hit exactly right?   I don't need to sister another 2x10 in there do I?

MountainDon

1/4" gap seems like a lot. The panels are usually under-sized by just the right enough to allow for the manufacturers recommended gapping. My OSB T&G subfloor panels were about 1/8 inch short on the long 8 foot dimension. The width on a T&G sheet is another matter; that dimension is usually under by up to a half inch.


So if your panels are not aligning with each joist properly because of the gapping you have two choices as I see it.
1.  Add blocking as you suggested; 2x4 should be fine. I'd glue and screw or at least use ring shank nails. Or,
2.  Trim the sheets enough to correct the length and have the joint lay over the center of the joist.
Either of those choices would be better than trying to remove nails.  My personal choice would be #2. With a good clamp on cutting guide you can make the cuts very precise.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


glenn kangiser

Also  - the long direction of the subfloor should be 90 degrees to the joists.  The Avantex shortages wouldn't show up until you reached the side then.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

dogneck

Mtndon is correct the spacing is 1/8" not 1/4".     I got it on advantec website.   I think that was the problem, along with a few of the joists being slightly bowed (just happens to be the ones at 8 and 16 ft).  When I get the bridging in that should help.

MountainDon

I used solid 2x10 blocking in the center of my span (15 ft 6 inch, joist end to joist end). Even though the 2x10's were very good there was enough bowing to have caused problems without the blocking.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


soomb

Quote from: MountainDon on August 19, 2008, 12:00:34 PM
I used solid 2x10 blocking in the center of my span (15 ft 6 inch, joist end to joist end). Even though the 2x10's were very good there was enough bowing to have caused problems without the blocking.
Do you have a photo of it? (blocking)
Live- Phoenix, Relax- Payson

MountainDon

The only picture I have showing the blocking can be found at the end of this link...

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2335.msg61571#msg61571

Hope that helps.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

soomb

Wonderful thank you.

PS- 2000 White Jeep Cherokee on 31's with Rubicon 4.5 lift.  (so I can't be all bad)
Live- Phoenix, Relax- Payson

MountainDon

#8
You are most welcome.  :)

Great taste in 4x4's.   :) :)

Do you have much rubbing on the lower arms at full lock? That's my only beef with my 32's.

Also, do you have the Rubicon disconnects, the ones with the removable center tube?

more of mine here
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2532.msg31926#msg31926
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


soomb

A little rub.  I notice it most when reversing slowly as I turn out of my drive way.  I do not have the disconnects. The RE kit is the more firm ride as I do a fair amount of highway and my wife is a white knuckler.
Live- Phoenix, Relax- Payson