Lap Siding Question / Opinion

Started by MountainDon, October 17, 2008, 12:02:26 AM

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MountainDon

Below is a rough sketch of two lap siding layouts. The major difference is at the lower edge of the window trim.

Option A would have the lower edge of the siding boards line up with the lower edge of the trim. Doing this with the width of the desired siding would necessitate using a shorter "reveal" on the lowest board. The very uppermost board would also work out to a shorter reveal. but would mostly be hidden under the large eve overhang.

Option B would use equal reveals starting from the bottom going up to the wall top where the uppermost would be a shorter reveal. However, the window trim bottom would be more or less in the middle of the siding board.

... not to scale...

Express your preferences please. There may be a "right" way and a "wrong" way on this. I have my suspicions, but am not certain. I've found some info stating one thing and many installation directions that avoid the question altogether.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

PEG688

 My preference is to divide the courses below the window up so they are eq. and hit the bottom of the trim on the "main" height windows  as shown in option  "A" Of course on a normal house not every window will be the same height , kitchen and bath windows are generally shorter in height for instance.
This was the "right way" back when siding reveals where smaller, older buildings back east sometimes started with courses as small as two inches and worked the reveal wider as they siding moved up the wall. I think before gutter where common / affordable they did that for better protection from rain water splashing up as it hit the ground.   

In today wide siding / Hardi market your option"A" is often used as a compromise to my above option "C".

I really don't think there is a wrong answer to your question , as long as flashing , papering details are followed properly.

They are all just different views of the same noble quest to keep the rain out.  ;) 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


Whitlock

I think B  You woulden't have the short board at the bottom of the wall. I also think  the window trim would do a better job at keeping the weather out.


Good luck,W
Make Peace With Your Past So It Won't Screw Up The Present

MountainDon

Thanks PEG, I actually had option C on my sketch paper, but didn't go with it for one reason. That reason is that I have access to some brand new Hardi plank 12" wide siding at about a third off... leftovers someone wants to get rid of. It's enough to do approximately 30% of the cabin. The remainder I'll have to buy new.

The distance from the bottom edge of the window trim to the bottom of the exterior wall is 36 inches. If I do an Option C that means an overlap of 3 inches with the 12" boards; a 9 inch reveal. The parsimonious part of me balks at covering up that much perfectly good siding material, and doesn't want to give up the good deal on the planks.  d* d*

I may need to have a good talk with myself  ???   d*


Thanks Whitlock, I do like the appearance of having the same size reveal as in "B"; but I prefer the appearance of the under window are as in "A".   ???  I may have to go with "C"     :-\ :-\

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

NM_Shooter

For option B, are you trimming the lap siding off under the window or leaving it intact?

Also... are you planning on shimming under the window trim to make it planar with the side pieces of trim?

Regards,

Frank
"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"


MountainDon

Quote from: NM_Shooter on October 17, 2008, 01:07:14 PM
For option B, are you trimming the lap siding off under the window or leaving it intact?

On option B the siding would have to be cut to fit around the trim/window.



The window trim is all 5/4 stock (1" finished) It's applied first all around the window and is already installed. The siding butts up to it with a 1/8" clearance. Then it's caulked. Then painted.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

NM_Shooter

Hmmm... if the siding butts up to it, I think "A" might be a bit better.  No cutting of the plank immediately below makes it stronger, and you don't have to play any games with that plank to mount it. 

I'm thinking that unless the top edge of the plank is full sized, it is going to "float" a bit if you have to trim it off, right?   If the plank is full sized and placed just below the window trim piece, the top of the plank gets nailed down like all the other pieces. 

-f-

"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"

MountainDon

#7
I've been leaning in the direction of A all along (or C if it wasn't for the deal that's tempting me.) Actually we were thinking of 12 inch for some time, even before the cheaper starter pile of 12 inch came along.


... Frank raises another question which I was going to get to, but he got ahead of me  :D  ... re Option A or C with the plank right up under the 5/4 window trim board... From what I figure myself,  that plank has to be trimmed to fit up around the trim boards the amount of the overlap. That allows the lower edge of the plank to each side of the window to be aligned with the lower edge of the trim. That's only 1 1/2 " using my figures.

The dashed lines in the image below are the hidden portions of each plank. I trust it's clear enough.



It would seem that plank might have to be face nailed along it's lower edge. Right? Wrong? Sometimes?   ???

Thanks all... there are no more surprises.  And No, we're not going to paint the planks alternating colors white & blue like the blubar paper.    ;D ;D   I just have a lot of it on hand.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

PEG688

Quote from: MountainDon on October 17, 2008, 09:28:46 PM


It would seem that plank might have to be face nailed along it's lower edge. Right? Wrong? Sometimes?   ???





  Right, sometimes they need a nail or two , S/S Maise siding nails , or Galv siding nails work fine. Pre-borings a good idea , they seldom break IF you don't pre-bore but the nails are hard to get started , for ,ah,,,,,,,  how do I put this gently    ???   , some one who doesn't bang nails for a living. 

And yes you do have to knotch the lower piece around the window in both cases , one knotch is just not as deep.

On pieces,( I can't bring myself to type "plank " for cement board , it's just wrong ) with a deep knotch you carry two pieces,  one uncut one , that is used to support the cut one.

 
   

When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


MountainDon

Quote from: PEG688 on October 17, 2008, 09:59:48 PM

for ,ah,,,,,,,  how do I put this gently    ???   , some one who doesn't bang nails for a living. 

Amateur?     ;D


Quote from: PEG688 on October 17, 2008, 09:59:48 PM
On pieces,( I can't bring myself to type "plank " for cement board , it's just wrong )
I knew it! I knew it!! When I was typing "plank" I was thinking, "PEG wouldn't call this a plank. He wouldn't even call it a board".   rofl  It doesn't really feel right I'll admit.   "Piece" fits.   :)   

Planks don't snap if you pick them up wrong. 

Siding is on the list to be started next weekend. Drywall this weekend.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

PEG688

 Don't forget to take that hike this weekend , smell a few flowers eh.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

PEG is always so p/c and he knows the difference between a plank and cemented paper fiber. [crz]
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

MountainDon

Quote from: PEG688 on October 17, 2008, 10:36:26 PM
Don't forget to take that hike this weekend , smell a few flowers eh.

Gotta do that  :)  Gotta split some of that firewood pile too.  :D   ...better than watching TV


I have a trailer load of 5/8 gyproc to take off with in the AM. Well, 19 sheets, not a load really. But heavy enough when you get to the last sheet.  :P
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.