Toilet drain too high

[glenn kangiser]

Here is a pix of the flange that slips all the way down - trim the bottom a bit on the pipe side if you need more.

[glenn kangiser]

Also found this.

[glenn kangiser]

This is the kind that could have the flange slide near all the way down - I think you could make this work if you have over 2 inches above the pipe and it looks like you have room to fit it in.

[Ernest T. Bass]

I'm a little confused.. How does a 4'' closet bend allow you to put the flange on lower? Also, are these parts that I could find at a local hardware store, or would I have to order them?

Thanks very much for the ideas!
Andrew

[glenn kangiser]

The one that would do you the most good is a 4x3 - measuring the 4x3 I have here I could mount the flange top 2" - maybe a bit less above the pipe if I trimmed it out with a Sawzall.  The 4 Inch pictured above is straight - the flange pictured above is also straight and will slide down as far as you push it.  The top of the closet bend would be sticking up through it so you cut it off as desired.

In your case for the most you could get you would go starting at floor level - flange - 4x3 closet bend -3" pipe as needed, 3" to 4" bushing 4" coupler -

From the pix it looks like you have 4" pipe between the street el and the 45 or 1/8 bend.

Is your street el for the flange above the finished floor right now?

[Ernest T. Bass]

The 45 coming off the wye, the pipe running to the toilet and the street el are all 3''. The camera's perspective kinda makes them look bigger... The top of the street el will be protruding 3''-4'' above the finish floor.

Would it be possible to trim anything off the bottom of the flange for a lower fit? By that I mean, cutting it back a little so it doesn't overlap the closet bend as much? Would this be jeopardizing the integrity of the joint?

[glenn kangiser]

That is what I was talking about above -  I would trim as much as necessary if I had to - even as far as very near the bottom of the flange as long as the glue will still seal it.  I would then put screws into all support holes and put cement around the toilet area to make it more stable.  Wood could wprk but may be harder to stabilize.  You could gain a bit more by going a long slope up toward the flange on the floor without being too noticeable.  Put the flange as low as you can get it then use a 2x4 as a screed  from the flange to the doorway - distant walls etc to  establish grade slope.  It may gain you another inch or so without being too noticeable.  Door bottom may have to be raises a bit to clear if too close.

[Ernest T. Bass]

Do you mean, using cement around the base of the toilet instead of plumber's putty? What kind of cement would you use?

Thanks again!
Andrew

[glenn kangiser]

The toilet will be sealed to the flange with a wax ring - sticky like bees wax.  About $2.00 at  any hardware store.

No, I meant to put a small concrete slab around the toilet to keep it from rocking.  Your treated wood may work fine if you can keep it secure.  

Note that most hardware stores should have the closet bend - ours usually do.  If you wanted something like the flange with the 45 to get into a tighter space it would likely be special order - I haven't seen them except in that catalog.