sole plates, anchor bolts, and bottom plates

[MikeT]

I am seeking any tips or guidance so I do not venture off into no-no land or end up having to re-do my work.

I set my sill plates today--sort of.  No problem with that but the anchor bolts stick out the height of the nut or in some cases a bit more.  But now I have plate the walls (no floor joists yet because these are pony walls and I need to frame up to the height of the floor.  When I set my bottom plates, I have to work around or compensate for the height of the anchor bolts.

Should I counter sink the nuts into the sill plate?  Should I bore out holes for the nuts to fit underneath in the bottom plates?  Is it builder's choice?  Does it matter?

Thanks for any help....

mt

[peg_688]

Bore hole right thru the bottom plate with a 1 1/4" or so bit. That way the inspector can see your bolt & nut. And also so you can tighten those nuts in a year or so when everything has shrunk up  a bit.  

 Do you also have a bearing plate  1/4"x3"x3" to contend with ??

We use a bottom cutting router bit and "rough out" a place for the bearing plate as well. The plates are required around here.


You could also hole saw a 3" hole thru the bottom plate instead of the smaller one.


Remember to use Galv. nails if your PT plate is ACQ treated. For bolt connecting the two "bottom plates" and for any sheathing nails you drive into the PT when you sheet your walls.

G/L PEG    

[youngins]

Happen to have a pic of a bearing plate?

[peg_688]

Nuttin but a BIG / expensive  washer, square in nature.

Link: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/bp-lbp.html

[MikeT]

Yes, PEG, I do have what I called thick, square washers to deal with.  Now I will sound much smarter when I refer to them as bearing plates!  Thanks.  When I built my garage and had to deal with the plates, I just really reefed on the nuts and the plates kind of sunk themselves into the sole plate.  Is that a bad idea?

[peg_688]

 Is that a bad idea?

Yes , more so if you did it when the concrete was sort of green , it can pop the concrete. And crushing the wood generally is not a good idea.

The routed or chiseled  ( the treated wood will dull your tools quickly) recess is best.  You can do a planer cut with your skilsaw as well if you confident / good with the saw.  Set it to about 1/2" depth ,  make some saw blade kerfs long ways and across the grain and then hold or pin back the guard and rock it back and forth to gouge out the wood , yes  it can be dangerious , chips fly around ,etc , And if you cut yer self I NEVER Said this    

 

[MikeT]

Got it.  I can recess them in a more proper manner, I am sure.  Any suggestions about what to do if (or is it when) one of those locations happens to land right where a stud will fall?

[peg_688]

If your using 2x6's cut out a "U" if it's more centered, or a "L" if it's close to the edge.  And yes a few will fall that way , PITB

 And what ya mean "Any suggestions about what to do" did ya think that was a "stumper" question fer ole PEG


 Edited cuz saw is a word but should a been  "was"  

And my spell checker symbol has disappeared or I did some thing with / to it  

[MikeT]

Oh contraire, ole PEG.  I knew you had the answer (or is it AN answer).  I was not trying to stump--rather I was seeking what I got--good guidance.  Gracias!

mt

[cedarglen]

I've been looking for some good pictures or detail drawings of cripple walls. I have Wagners book but it pretty much assumes that you are building on a slab or basement. I would like to see a typical wood beam pocket in a cripple wall if anybody has a drawing or photo. Also can't the studs be nailed right to the pressure treated sole plate?

I by the way just got Johns 2 story universal plans permitted here in CA. I will start building in the spring.

[peg_688]

Also can't the studs be nailed right to the pressure treated sole plate?

Sure can just use Galv. nails IF your PT is the newer ACQ lumber.  They have to be hand drives , gun nails , even if they are galv. are NOT hot dipped Galv. the protective coating is to thin , so gun nails , at least here will not meet code. Nor do you want to use them with ACQ lumber as the will corrode away.

G/L PEG