roof sheathing/deep well pump quest.

[Michael Lopiccolo]

Hi, thax for this great forum! 1st quest. ,I would like to use T&G 1x6 pine for my roof  sheathing.I like the look and also will be killing two birds with one stone,but in a 16 x 24 straight gable structure using a wood burning stove in upstate NY,will I stay warm?
  Second, we were lucky enough to find a peice a land with septic and a deep well,the well works great with a generator,the pressure tank is located 10 feet from the well in a small shed ,I would like to put it in the cabin,my question is , the cabin will be 40 feet from the well ,can a 1/2 h.p. deep well pump get my water 30 more feet to the cabin? the well is 75 feet deep. thank you

[John Raabe]

The 1x6 will work fine for roof sheathing (over standard rafters) and will look nice on the interior if you watch how you put the roof down and use short staples. However, if you don't insulate the roof you will only want to use the cabin seasonally.

You can put foam insulation on the upper side of the sheathing but it is a lot more expensive per R.

Most roofs done to expose the interior framing use 2x6 T&G for the sheathing or decking and then are able to build up several inches of foam insulation (to R-30 or more) and screw down OSB on top of this and into the decking. That becomes the working deck for the actual roofing.

It looks like an old fashioned rustic cabin on the interior but meets current code and comfort levels. Too bad it costs so much...

[Amanda_931]

My understanding on pumps is that pulling water is hard, pushing it is easy, and horizontal distance hardly counts.

Seventy five feet vertical lift isn't far, from what I remember when I was actually considering pumping water up here.  But as a well it is deep enough to require a submersible pump.  Submersible so that you can push water all the way.

You might take a look at Dankoff Solar:

www.dankoffsolar.com

They have a right serious German solar direct submersible pump that might be what you need.  Not much in the way of moving parts, tolerates quite a bit of trash, all the electronics are in the pump house.

I looked at the slowpump since the big point was no wires across a stream that floods all the time, and the water was from a spring.  Expensive if wonderful.

Filling out and sending in their questionaire might teach you a lot.

(I think that doing pump research was the first time I encountered this site)

[Dan]

Sounds like you already have the pump?  It does depend some on the pump, but as Amanda stated if it doesn't go uphill any more to get to the cabin, it should do fine.

[glenn kangiser]

As mentioned  above horizontal distance doesn't matter much if the pipe is big enough but 30', even 3/4 " should do pretty good.  Elevation makes more difference, however long horizontal distances do have loss and on a long enough, small enough horizontal pipe you can have flow problems.  For every  foot elevation you go up it takes .433 lbs of pressure.  10 feet would take 4.33 lbs pressure so if you have 30 lbs at the pump now and went up 10 feet higher you would still have about 25 1/2 lbs pressure at the faucet.

[JRR]

Michael
If the pump is currently working, why not string garden hose to the final build site just for experimentation?

[Amanda_931]

Glen's right.

The Dankoff site probably still has tons of information on it, by the way.

With a slow-pump I was going to have to put filters before the pump, and a cistern up here, with either the (pretty wimpy I understand, I've never used it) trailer pressure pump or a jet pump and pressure tank up here where there was electricity.  And there would have been a pretty long run from a solar panel to the pump site, with a choice of either going to and then back from 120 v ac, or absolutely humongous wire.

It sounded easier not to bother.