PEX crimping tool

MountainDon · May 01, 2007, 01:25:27 AM

Do you have a PEX crimper? What kind... single size? Multiple size using the ratcheting "tab" style clamps? What do you like/dislike about yours? I've rented a couple times in the past and have another two or three projects coming up... not sure what way to go? I'd be needing 3/8 and 1/2 inch sizes for certain. :-/

glenn kangiser · May 01, 2007, 03:16:55 AM

I have the manual mechanical one but not a crimper - it is an expander using extra rings over the end. That may be the one you mean. I think mine is an original Wirsbo. 3/8 1/2 3/4

from here - http://www.thehomeinspector.com/Inspector/SampleMMM.html

Pex down the page a ways.

I use these.

May 01, 2007, 07:29:08 AM

Is there instructions on how to use pex somewhere?

Thanks

MountainDon · May 01, 2007, 09:55:15 AM

Thanks Glenn. Expander... Hmmm I hadn't run across that system. I'll have to look into that more this afternoon. I just need something that works.

However it works.

bnix, PEX is about as easy as it gets from what I've read. Ya have to watch the curves and turns and if you have one of the common crimping tools (diff tool or jaw set for each size) you must have the tool calibrated properly.

Let's see what other gems others may post about PEX.

glenn kangiser · May 01, 2007, 10:00:24 AM

There are other kinds of PEX, but the Uponor/ Wirsbo system requires you to be a trained installer. They also require you to be a plumber or contractor. I don't know if there are any exceptions. The manual comes with the tool.

If planning to use Uponor/Wirsbo, I would check with the supplier for instruction first to be sure you can actually buy from them. They make you take the little 1 hour or so course first - easy but they want you to know it as they don't want reports of failed installs in the field. Once again - I don't know if thye will supply a non-contractor.

May 01, 2007, 11:03:07 PM

Well, Uponor/ Wirsbo won't sell the tool/fittings to just anyone but there are others who only care about making a buck!

The Wirsbo tools are available from http://www.pexsupply.com/CategoryPre.asp?cID=544&brandid=23 who also sell the SSC (stainless steel clamp) system (OETIKER), as well as the CrimpRing (tm) system (uses black copper rings and crimps in a manner similar to the old PB copper colored rings

They also sell fittings, etc for both systems. The Wirsbo tools cost a lot more, but their rings are a lot less. :-/

Also found there are approved PEX compression fittings (no special tools; for odd job here and there) More PEX tools/parts at.....
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u608743
http://www.pexheat.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=20008_37
http://www.pexconnection.com/categories.php?catID=124

Decisions, decisions...... :-/ leaning towards the OETIKER style, one tool, no jaw changing, but most expensive clamp rings (dang!) :-/ curiously these rings are made by Wirsbo (Uponor) The tool clamps on the "bump" and doesn't need to encircle the ring and tubing.

glenn kangiser · May 01, 2007, 11:26:01 PM

Interesting- I haven't tried anything else.

I like the Wirsbo plastic rings because they do nothing but get tighter as they sit longer. You have about 30 seconds after you stretch them out then you better git er done cause she's a gonna git tight.

In a couple minutes it's tighter than a bull's bum in fly time. :-/

MountainDon · May 01, 2007, 11:34:53 PM

The way Wirsbo works sounds good; total rethink on the clamping mode. Thanks for your input... have to see about those tool prices..... hope this isn't a re-run of the PC saw

I could just go copper and showcase my soldering skills

glenn kangiser · May 01, 2007, 11:40:46 PM

Trust me -- you'll love it.

May 01, 2007, 11:44:11 PM

I am good with copper - did 6 houses with it. I now only use it for places where Wirsbo won't do. Maybe the tub spout.

MountainDon · May 01, 2007, 11:50:55 PM

My Dad taught me how to sweat copper, we redid their entire house back in late 50's/early sixties more or less. Copper requires some skill, but mostly meticulous preparation and care about where the flame is pointed.

MountainDon · May 02, 2007, 12:06:10 AM

bnix, more pex info here
http://www.pexinfo.com/

glenn kangiser · May 02, 2007, 12:07:07 AM

That's better than sweating bullets. :-?

I learned from the radiator repair man at Dodge - then on to copper pipe was easy. May have been shown by the contractor I worked for after school also.

While we are at it, for others, copper gets an oxide coating on it so brushing or sanding until bright is required on both the male and female part. When heated the torch will oxidize it again so a coating of flux is put on both parts to prevent it. I like a self tinning or one with zinc in it.

Don't melt the solder - plumbing safe type - with the torch. Heat both sides of the joint until the copper is hot enough to melt the solder. Capillary action will pull the solder right into the joint. A quick wipe around the joint with the solid solder will assure that the solder spreads around the entire joint. If it was well cleaned it should seal 100% with no problem.

Maybe Don can add more.

glenn kangiser · May 02, 2007, 12:19:55 AM

The advantage I see with Uponor/Wirsbo is that it is stretched and only wants to get back to its original size. It doesn't want to be big so it is constantly tight on the fitting.

It seems the others are being forced tight by the clamp rings - all they want to do is get back to their original size also. That means they are looking for a way to leak as soon as they can get loose. I don't know this - haven't used them - just seems that way if they crimp.

Uponor/Wirsbo Pex has a memory so always wants to go back to its original shape - even if crimped accidentally. Just take a heat gun - heat it until it turns clear then let it cool and the crimp will be gone - no need to splice in a new piece.

May 02, 2007, 12:21:25 AM

A wire brush or emery cloth is preferred over sandpaper.

If you're cutting into "live" copper pipe make sure the water's off first. Then drain the pipe real good, then some more. Water in the pipe makes soldering just about impossible.

Bread shoved into the wet pipe will keep the water away, yet dissolve and wash away after the pipes are joined.

If soldering on a valve at least open it so you don't melt the seal.

A joint that didn't "take" is best cut out and redone with new parts.

Make sure the house walls are not smoldering when you finish up and leave.

glenn kangiser · May 02, 2007, 12:27:07 AM

Quote
Make sure the walls not smouldering when you finish up and leave.

I think that is my favorite.

I think I already mentioned the 30 foot flames we had going in the tarpaper when working on the new Carmel Safeway, didn't I? Plaster guys put on tarpaper about 30 feet down slope from where we were welding on the roof- sparks went around the corner, down the roof and it was party time.

MountainDon · May 02, 2007, 12:34:11 AM

Quote30 foot flames

I don't recall that one. Would have been quite exciting.

A sheet of aluminum (thick enough not to melt) or UNgalvanized steel makes a handy heat/flame shield when soldering pipes. For those who don't know... you don't really want to heat up the galvanized too high and breath in the zinc fumes. Ditto, even more so tho. when welding plated metals... not a good idea

glenn kangiser · May 02, 2007, 12:44:36 AM

You got that right - metal fume fever from the zinc fumes, and it doesn't take much. I've had it 3 or 4 times.

Sweating, burning up and freezing so bad your teeth are chattering almost enough to break all at the same time. Not much fun. Worst of it usually lasts about 5 to 8 hours and milk or ice cream helps to get rid of it - calcium I think. After the first exposure it won't affect you too bad for a while - but a few years more or less and you will get it again if exposed.

glenn kangiser · May 02, 2007, 12:50:37 AM

Quote
Quote30 foot flames
I don't recall that one. Would have been quite exciting.

They had everybody working over everybody - not in an organized manner either. We had it out by the time the fire dept. showed up.

Project manager got smart with me - I got smarter with him- told him where to stick his job and said I was getting out of there. Started to pack up but field supt. asked me to not go - they needed me :'( - Project Manager apologized so I stayed.