Permanent Wood Foundations

[Preston]

I am brand new hear and have only browsed through about 15-20 of the 100 pages; so I apologize if this has already been talked about, if so please direct me!!!

I am wanting to know more about PWF's and if someone here has done one before, what the different types are, and if anyone has pictures of the process of their own that would be great!

The kind I'm specifically interested in is without a crawl space, other than the size of the flooring joists, and without a full underground level.

[glenn kangiser]

The little house plans have a skid foundation option.  Little House Plans

Also you can search "Skid Foundation" here for more info.  http://www.countryplans.com/search.html

[Preston]

Can you build a normal two story house on a skid foundation?

[PEG688]

Sure why not Best done on a  sandy high bank water front lot, easies the way to the bottom of the slope in a slide  


You should not even consider  a wood foundation for any two storey house .

Think about it permanent and wood do not go together , so a permanent wood foundation is hog wash / BS in most cases , IMO.

A cabin , a shed , a outhouse , ya maybe. A two storey house you'd be throwin money away, again IMO.  

[John Raabe]

You would not want to build a two story house on a skid foundation. Such a foundation (such as done in the Little House plans) is designed for small buildings with light loads carried by PT skids resting on a simple gravel trench. This is for a shed or such building that you might want to move.

For a two story house use a concrete basement, crawlspace or perhaps a full PT wood foundation. There are details for the permanate wood foundation in the Universal Cottage plans. When done properly this foundation will last the life of the house. But it is not a skid foundation.

One of the main things a foundation does for a tall house is anchor the building into the ground. Shallow skid foundations can't do this.

[hobbiest]

The Cape Cod house (Cape) is native to Cape Cod, Mass, where they were origonally built on skids.  The sandy soil under them would erode, and the house would be trundled or floated on a raft to a new location.  These houses were 1 1/2 stories, so quite strong, but with a maximum of space inside.  I agree about the 2 story house, might as well shell out some dough for at least post and pier.  BTW, the 1 1/2 story houses were developed by the dutch (dutch gambrel design), because heavier taxes were imposed for 2 story houses.  At least that is what I read.

[glenn-k]

Statements like that remind me of the Boston Tea Party, Jens,  although I assume England was no longer the problem.  I just read an eyewitness account of the great event.

http://www.historyplace.com/unitedstates/revolution/teaparty.htm

Linked from here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boston_Tea_Party

[hobbiest]

BTW, the origonal permanent wood foundations (using treated lumber framing) is over 50 years old and still alright.  Even still, I would have a hard time trusting it.

[outhouse]

How about railroad ties?  I've been considering them for light, some small footprint buildings. I got the idea looking at railroad tracks.    Common length is about 8'+.  Spaces at 4' to 6', beams running opposite, maybe 1' cantilever on the joists ?

[JRR]

I think "fresh" (be careful of the ones that have already been used) railway-spec ties would make an awesome footing system for a small building.  Make sure you float them on a gravel mound ... just like the railway does ... for good drainage.  

I forget the fancy word for it, but you could use a welded fencing wire retainer ... staked in place with re-bar... to keep the gravel in place and looking orderly.   Be sure the welded wire is up to the task.  A few wraps of cable around would add some security.   Be sure to dig away and remove the carbon layer (top soil) before building up the gravel mound.

If the building is small enough, you could just plan on support ties on the building corners.   Place the ties under the building corner and at a 45deg diagonal so that each crosstie supports two walls.   For more support, use two or more, crossties at each corner.

Use housetrailer hold-down systems for wind proofing.

[glenn kangiser]

Were you thinking of expanded metal like in the picture Judy posted of the fence, JRR?  At any rate, it would work.



The metal can be cut with a torch or an abrasive wheel in a grinder or Skilsaw.  Also a metal cutting blade in a sawzall would work.

[JRR]

Yeah, nothing that tall or grand (That's a fine looking fence!)... but otherwise, that's the idea.   Welded wire is often galvanized ... kinda rare in expanded metal.

[glenn kangiser]

OK - Like animal cage wire - comes in all sizes and shapes.  I used to get it for making rabbit cages.

[outhouse]

True stuff. I've seen the circular rock pilings with ranch fence and T-posts holding the shape. I believe the weight ads stability and the rocks save money. I imagine using precast patio stones every couple of feet under the ties could also help. Of course at some point it begins to seem as involved and expensive as concrete piers or walls, but it is still worth the consideration to me. Another improvement could be made by firming up the top of the tie with a new 2"x8". I realize it would take some decent old ties, but most I've seen are still strong and just more ragged than anything.  I have even considered using them to supplement in a heavy timber design, however the smell of creosote could be a drawback. I guess a fire marshall or codes inspector would think that was a whopping idea. One other good thing about using them as a foundation is that if you had any extra sticking out...WHAM! Instant Deck Supports!

[glenn kangiser]

I used them as a base under my strawbale walls in the greenhouse and outer bedroom strawbale wall - worked fine - kept them off the ground.  Bit of a smell in the summer sun where exposed - could be plastic and plastered over though.