Sunroom Plans

Started by stricsm, October 18, 2005, 12:52:47 PM

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stricsm

I purchased the sunroom plans to glass in an existing covered porch using double tempered glass from sliding glass doors.  I need to mount the glass on the inside side (dry side) of the 4X4 posts (opposite from shown in the plan).  If I mount the glass on the opposite side (dry side) would it be OK to place the double stick glazing tape to the 4X4 posts and then connect the glass using the 3" butyl tape or would this defeat the purpose of the butyl tape?  Also, is it acceptable to use neoprene setting block material that is sold in rolls (1/4" X 5/8") such as:  http://crlaurence.com/ProductPages/S/SBRL1_330.html?Origin=  

Thanks for your help.

John Raabe

#1
The rolled neoprene should work fine for the setting blocks.

Just so I understand what you are planning. The posts are exposed to the weather and on the dry side (interior) of the posts is where you want to mount the glass.

The tricky part is sealing between the wood post and the glass. It will be difficult to trim out, but you could use the tape as flexible flashing and seal it on the weather side that way. You would also want to slope the sill so it drains to the outside. You could probably cut the tape lengthwise and use the 1.5" strips for this flashing.
None of us are as smart as all of us.


stricsm

You understood what I was trying to ask.  

I assume that what you are saying is to use the tape as if it were pan flashing attaching it to the glass and then bending 90 degrees and attaching it to the sill (aluminum side facing out and up) and to the upright posts.  Trim out to cover this.  BTW, the porch is on the second story and is built on PT decking which will eventually be covered with cement board and tile.  I'm I reading your response correctly?

jraabe

#3
I think that would be the most waterproof way to do it. But it isn't elegant.

You could also just set the glass in the glazing tape, put the wood stops on the inside, slope the sill and then let everything stabilize (in dry weather!) for a few days or weeks.

Come back and carefully caulk the gap of the tape with a good clear flexible sealant like Lexel (it can be painted). If you keep on top of it it will stay watertight.

However, this is one of those early generations of glazing details I talk about in the plans. You won't be able to forget about it for 20 years. This detail holds up better for a window wall than it does on a skylight.

stricsm

Thanks John for your sage advice.  After talking with several of my fellow workers, we've come up with the plan that follows.  

We'll use the double stick glazing tape on the 4X4 posts.  We'll lay down horizontal PT 4X4's as exterior stops for the glass.  These horizontal 4X4's will be in between the 4X4 posts.  We'll rip a strip off of the horizontal 4X4's such that water will drain away.  Our setting block will be behind the horizontal 4X4.  We'll use double stick glazing tape on the inside and trim out with 1X4's to cover the space between the windows.  After setting the glass and letting it stabilize we'll apply caulk to the gap between the glass and stops, then cover that with a synthetic exterior trim and more caulk.  Maybe this will be weather tight for a few years.  

Thanks again.

Mark


jraabe

Sounds like it should work. Best wishes on the project.

stricsm

I've collected all of the glass except for 3 panels, however, the double pane glass is of varying thicknesses.  This isn't a problem for me since I plan to add spacer blocks to make it look the same on the inside.  I purchased the neoprene rubber setting block material in rolls.  The material is 5/8" wide & 1/4" thick.  It appears that some of my glass panels may only be 1/2 or 5/8.  Is it OK if the setting block material is slightly wider than the glass panel thickness?  The manufacturer of the setting block material recommended that it be slightly narrower than the glass panel thickness.

jraabe

I don't see any problem with the setting blocks being wider. You do not want the blocks so narrow that one of the glass panels can slide over it.

The are also easy to cut with a razon knife so I would trim them to right size for each panel. There are only two per panel and they only need to be an inch or so wide.