prepping for plumbing inspection....

[MikeT]

I will spend part of this weekend taking my dry DWV set up and gluing it.  One question I have is where I should cover/seal up my lavatory drains--should I include the trap arm set up?

And regarding my water testing of the system, since I have a two story set up, does it make sense to use a cleanout that is midway up my stack between the first and second story to fill water into the DWV lines to that point and check for leaks rather than going all the way to the roof vents?

And in the Hemp plumbing book, he talks about using some cover with a hosebib at the end of the system to facilitate draining without having to constantly glue a plug in.  What do others do?

Finally, how common is it to find leaks?

Thanks,
mt

[Dave Sparks]

This is a rough-in inspection correct? There was a slab? more info...
From my dark memory of the whole process the goal is about 10 feet high, full of water so that if the inspector even touches it he gets sprayed....

[ScottA]

I usualy just cut the vent stacks 4' above the second floor and put in a coupling after inspection. You only need to cut 1 vent if you're filling the entire system from 1 point. If you have a tub upstairs usualy the inspector will let you get by with just filling it up to the tub overflow point. I have had inspectors make me fill it all the way to the roof but they are not the norm.

[MikeT]

I had the DWV lines in the slab inspected last year.  All was good.  But now I need glue up the whole thing, up to the vents.  I want to be able top use the thing!  I guess I will email him and ask if I should cut the vent at 4' and fill from the one spot....

And am I correct that I should run the arm that goes into the P trap around 6-8" and cap it off there?

[ScottA]

I had the DWV lines in the slab inspected last year.  All was good.  But now I need glue up the whole thing, up to the vents.  I want to be able top use the thing!  I guess I will email him and ask if I should cut the vent at 4' and fill from the one spot....

And am I correct that I should run the arm that goes into the P trap around 6-8" and cap it off there?

You need to have all the glue joints done so yes.

[davidj]

I'm pretty much at the same stage (although no slab).  When setting the closet flange, I guess I need to temporarily shim it up to the height of the finished floor?  And it's set 12" from the finished wall (not 12" from studs)?