Installing drip edge - is gutter weld ok?

[Jackson Landers]

I'm *finally* done with sheathing the roof and it's time to install the drip edge. However, I've run into a bit of a problem. The 3/8 plywood that I used for sheathing overhangs the fascia by a few inches.  When I try to nail the drip edge on, the plywood bounces so much that literally I can't get the nails to go in.

Would I be safe getting a couple of tube of gutter weld and using that to fasten the aluminum drip edge to the sheathing?  It seems way easier than re-cutting all of that sheathing an inch shorter.

Incidentally, it's a 10 in 12 roof that nobody could possibly walk on anyway, so I'm not worried about someone eventually stepping on that edge and finding that it does not support their weight.

[glenn kangiser]

How about screws?  Self drillers if necessary, but sheetmetal screws will likely go right in using a clutch drill such as the Ryobi or others at about $39 if you don't have one.

[Jackson Landers]

Glenn,

Sheetmetal screws are a good idea, except that I don't have any such powered screw driver and really can't spare even $40 to buy one at the moment.  I have tendon problems in both hands and elbows that make it very difficult to put in more than a few screws at a time with a regular screwdriver. 

I'd rather spend $10 on a few tubes of an appropriate adhesive product, if possible.  But if something like gutter weld is a dumb idea, I'll bite the bullet and spend the money on screws and a clutch drill/electric screwdriver.     

[glenn kangiser]

I'm not familiar with gutter weld - I assume metal to metal -

How about Liquid Nails or equivalent - it will stick about anything to wood. 

http://www.liquidnails.com/products/product.jsp?productId=21

[Jackson Landers]

Ah, Liquid Nails. I use the heavy duty adhesive (interior/exterior) for pretty much everything. Everything from extra holding power for sheathing to simple furniture.  In fact, I've been out of wood glue for about 3 years and haven't bought more on account of finding that construction adhesive usually works better for most of my applications.

But using for roofing work seemed too good to be true. I've never used it to hold aluminum and the website does not specifically cite aluminum as a material that it will properly bond too. It's not the end of the world it it fails, though. It's easy enough to replace some drip edge down the road if I have to. I think I'm going to be the guinea pig here. 

[glenn kangiser]

I think it is covered in "metal and most other common building materials". 

What you are doing is not common but I think it would work fine.

[ScottA]

Got a staple gun?

[Jackson Landers]

Scott,

I do, but my experiences with using it to secure anything to 3/8" ply that is not backed by something stiffer have been poor. There's enough deflection that 90% of the staples only go about halfway in.  I tried using it to flash rough window openings with roofing felt and it only worked over points where there was a stud or plate directly behind that point on the sheathing.  If I was using something like 5/8" plywood then I think it would work better.

Glenn had the right idea about using Liquid Nails.  I'm going to try it after work today.

Somewhere there's a professional carpenter thinking to himself, 'man, I can't wait to get off work and leave this job site and go get on the internet.'  He and I need to switch places.

[PEG688]

 
Jackson , I gotta ask 

  #1: Why 3/8 ply for roof sheathing?

  #2: Why does your roof sheathing overhang your facia by 3"?

  #3: The part about "trading places", I'm thinkin you need to do more building to think you could "trade places" at least with this carpenter. #1 and #2 above seem to indicate that you may need some time as a helper / apprentice before your ready to "trade up"     


BTW glueing on metal drip edge is just wrong , even if Glenn sez it Ok.

I like to see the detail of this drip edge situation, it sounds far fetched to me.   

[glenn kangiser]

I was only thinking it would work for what he wanted to do - right is somthing else.

[PEG688]

I was only thinking it would work for what he wanted to do - right is somthing else.

Humm, so much for vetted experts 

I wanta know why it's that way. Somethings not right about it, might as well fix it now as pay double or triple to fix it later.

Sort a like using bubble glue instead of a tack weld!       

[glenn kangiser]

Getting to the right way here - do you consider both of these right, PEG? hmm

[Jackson Landers]

PEG,

1. Because I'm working completely alone on a 10 in 12 roof. I would certainly prefer to be using thicker sheathing, but weight is an issue. I can only hustle a 4 by 8 panel of but so much weight by myself. I've done this entire project solo and my choices of materials and methods have had to accommodate that reality.  We get mild winters here in central Virginia and the roof is steep enough that snow will fall off and there will never be much of a live load on it.  When I build the new house (this is just a 200 sq ft practice round) I intend to use thicker material.

2. I thought that would help guarantee that the fascia would not get rained on and that it might last longer. I work in insurance and have reviewed probably hundreds (maybe over a thousand) inspection reports on houses of ages ranging from brand spanking new to almost 300 years old. Those times when I have seen rot in a roof have most often involved rain getting at the fascia causing rot that went undetected behind the paint and eventual wicking through the ends of the rafter tails, where the rot then spreads to. Maybe this is a dumb way of preventing it? I guess I'll see what happens. It's only an outbuilding and if that 2 inch overhang starts to sag or something then I can always just cut it off and reinstall the drip edge.     

3. I was not literally suggesting that I am in a position to do a professional contractor's job for him. Just reflecting on the irony of the weekend warrior's plight.


Yeah, using construction adhesive for the drip edge did feel kind of wrong. I tried it on a short section yesterday after work and it's a bit of a pain on account of having to clamp it at so many points. This isn't an ideal solution but it seems to be working ok.

[PEG688]

Getting to the right way here - do you consider both of these right, PEG? hmm

B is the right /best way the sheathing is fully supported, add a style "D" flashing and your golden.

Few use style "D" flashing and Jackson is right without it rot will happen due to that failure point.

 

[akdreamin]

PEG,


2. I thought that would help guarantee that the fascia would not get rained on and that it might last longer. I work in insurance and have reviewed probably hundreds (maybe over a thousand) inspection reports on houses of ages ranging from brand spanking new to almost 300 years old. Those times when I have seen rot in a roof have most often involved rain getting at the fascia causing rot that went undetected behind the paint and eventual wicking through the ends of the rafter tails, where the rot then spreads to. Maybe this is a dumb way of preventing it? I guess I'll see what happens. It's only an outbuilding and if that 2 inch overhang starts to sag or something then I can always just cut it off and reinstall the drip edge.    

If you were looking for some overhang to protect the fascia, you could start your first course of shingles with a 1" or 1-1/2" overhang.  Here, aluminum fascia covers are the norm, tucked up under the drip edge.  If you overly concerned with fascia rot, that might be the way to go.

[MountainDon]

Re the difficulty in raising 4 x 8 sheets of 7/16 OSB or 1/2 plywood because of the weight.

I push the sheets up a ladder that has a step half way up. I've also done it with a set of plywood brackets bolted to the two ladders rails. It gives a place to rest the sheet while you climb higher and get ready for the final push over the top. Talking one story building. No photos; but I'll do a drawing if needed.

There is also a clamp grip available to lifting. And then of course a couple small holes drilled near the edge will allow a rope sling to be clipped in with carabiners and you can pull up.

I like my ladder as I can flop a sheet onto the roof framing right at the edge where I'll start.

I also use a couple of clamp on edge stops to keep the first sheet from sliding off the rafters.

Another thing I did on the cabin recently when my shoulder was hurting was to rip the 7/16 OSB to a 2 foot wide panel x 8 feet long. It seemed to weigh about half as much.