Bracing a large wall

[MushCreek]

Now that my barn has passed final inspection, it's time to actually make it code compliant! The end wall in the back is 28' wide and 21' tall. The whole thing is framed in 2X6, and despite the fact that the framing crew of 'undocumented workers' used half a forest of framing, it's all 2X6, which I don't believe to be code for a wall that high/wide. It certainly is 'flexible'. Why did I wait? I was afraid that any solution might trigger the inspectors to ask for engineering on it. 2 different inspectors looked at that wall several times, and never said anything about it. Now that I'm in the clear, let's backyard engineer some bracing.

Here's my plan: The room is 28' X 15-1/2'. There is a stoutly built loft across the way. I plan to build up one or two (probably two) beams out of 2X10's. I'll put one on each side of a stud, plus one in the middle to make a triple 2X10. On the outside wall, I'll nail the outer 2X10's to the stud. The edge of the loft is a double 2X10, and is secured by the floor deck (Advantech) being nailed and glued to it. This is where it gets tricky. I found a Simpson connector called a deck tie (DTT2Z), which is intended to be bolted to the framing of a wall, and screwed to a deck member to prevent it from pulling away from the wall. I figured on a pair of these for each beam assembly, bolted to the framing on the edge of the loft, and screwed to the beams. This beam should mostly be in compression anyhow, but there are certain wind conditions that could create suction outside and pull on the wall diaphragm. I feel that two of these beams, evenly spaced, should be overkill for bracing the wall. It's interesting to note that I rode out a storm with 60+ MPH winds in my barn, and that wall didn't wiggle a bit- I actually put my hand on it to see. I'll cap the bottom of the beams with a nice piece of wood to disguise the built-up assembly, lending a nice timber frame effect in this room. Eventually, I'll insulate and panel the walls, and we'll use this room as a seasonal great room.

Am I missing anything on my design? Does it sound adequate?

[MountainDon]

The rear end (gable?) wall is framed top to bottom with 2x6 as I understand it. The 2x6 are one piece top to bottom? If so, that's good. And that end has no loft or upper floor, just a ceiling as high as the roof?  That's what I "see" without a photo.

Then a horizontally placed beam at the 10 foot mark would help more than vertical insertions, I believe.   Don_P frequently mentions using a "plant shelf" at the 8 to 10 foot level when folks want cathedral ceilings. If there was an upper level floor connected to that end wall that would be a stiffening diaphragm. You want to try to emulate the strength of that without an actual floor.

[MountainDon]

...inspectors looked at that wall several times, and never said anything about it...

If it was being inspected as a barn, not a habitable building, then the wall may be adequate as built. Habitable, changes a lot of things.

[MushCreek]

The 2X6's are not continuous, but are doubled in a number of places to prevent having a 'hinge'. There are also horizontal 2X6's, but they don't do much to actually stiffen the wall. I thought of building a deep shelf to function as a beam, but I like the aesthetics of a couple beams better. It is the gable end of the building. The beams I would build would be struts to handle the loading on the wall from wind. I think that a triple 2X10 at 16' long would be able to handle the load without buckling. If i space them equally, it breaks the wall into 9' sections instead of 28'. They would be 12' off the ground, so not equal distant top to bottom, but they'd be close.

[MushCreek]

Here's a real sloppy bird's eye view. The triple beams are connected to the loft frame.