ceiling joist is not attached to rafter - how to fix

[sharbin]

I am in the process of going over the interior framing to make sure that nothing was missed before starting with the insulation.

So found out that the framer that I hired to frame the roof, left one of the ceiling joists without nailing it to the double rafter on one of the dormer sides (I have in the open cathedral ceiling part four 3x6 ceiling joists 4 feet apart). In addition, he left 1 1/2 inches gap between the double rafter and the ceiling joist. 

I thought of using 60d(?) nails to go through 1.5+1.5+1.5=4.5 inches of wood before reaching the ceiling joist which will leave 1.5 inches going through it.... this is if I was able to get the nail through the tensioned wood without bending it.

What options do I have? any ideas?

[PEG688]

Put a H-2.5 on it , slide in a pressure block on both sides, more than likely that joist is on layout and the doubler isn't . It's more than likely toe nailed down to the top plate already.

  I assume there is pressure blocking between the rafters and joist? Bird blocks / vent blocks / anti-rotation blocks / pressure blocking/ all pretty much the same thing , with a different name for the same blocking.   

[sharbin]

Put a H-2.5 on it , slide in a pressure block on both sides, more than likely that joist is on layout and the doubler isn't . It's more than likely toe nailed down to the top plate already.

  I assume there is pressure blocking between the rafters and joist? Bird blocks / vent blocks / anti-rotation blocks / pressure blocking/ all pretty much the same thing , with a different name for the same blocking.

Thanks for the reply.

Unfortunately, there are no blocking between rafters, however in constructing the dormer he put several 2x6 on top of each other to act as the base for the dormer window, and these are between the 2 double rafters. So in a way for the ceiling joist/rafter in question they do have that.
But I did not understand where to put the H-2.5, is it on the ceiling joist or the double rafter? Also, isn't the purpose is to tie the double rafter to the ceiling joist?

I will try to find a picture an post it for clarification.

[PEG688]

Unfortunately, there are no blocking between rafters, however in constructing the dormer he put several 2x6 on top of each other to act as the base for the dormer window, and these are between the 2 double rafters. So in a way for the ceiling joist/rafter in question they do have that.

  It's not the end of the world to not have anti-rotation blocking, thousands of homes don't have any blocking , but today we by code need to stop the joist  and rafters or  trusses from rolling over.  They are nailed to the sheathing above and generally to to top plates below, but then your counting on the nails to hold them in a high wind or  earth quake, the solid blocks do provide more stability.



But I did not understand where to put the H-2.5, is it on the ceiling joist or the double rafter? Also, isn't the purpose is to tie the double rafter to the ceiling joist?


  H-2.5 / H-1's are designed to hold things together and "down" to resist uplift from wind mainly. I'd put one H-1 (preferred / more hold down strenght , easier to install ) on each one that I could get one on.  H-1's are designed for one 1 1/2" member , they are U shaped where they attach, the H-2.5 attaches only to one side of a member so it can be attched to the side of doubled up / hard to get to in corners / odd spaced members, so  H-2.5 may be your best option. 

I will try to find a picture an post it for clarification.

  That would help, here's maybe sort of what yours should look like,

 

 





  These photo's where taken before we added the  Simpson hardware .

[sharbin]

So I ended up sandwiching one 2x8 and several 1x2 to make up the same high as the 2x8 (for a total of 2 1/4 inches thickness gap, v.s. to what I though 1 1/2) between the beam joist and double rafter and then nailing two 5 inches nails on the rafter side, and nailing one 8 inches nail from the beam joist side (of course I had to pre drill beforehand). This is the maximum I can put because of space restriction. In addition to that, I installed the H2.5 on both the rafter and joist. Did the same thing for the other side, however that side has even and additional 1/2 inch gap so I had to add yet another layer of plywood to make up the difference.