Questions from a newb

[shmily524]

Let me start of by saying hi to everyone. I have thoroughly enjoyed the hours of reading found on this site and have learned much.

I have not purchased plans yet, but that seems to be the best option...

Anyway, my wife and I purchased a piece of land near South Fork, CO a few years ago. The previous owner had installed septic, water tanks, a 20x20 block foundation, and subfloor before running to Mexico   

This Spring, I am finally building a cabin on the site. The subfloor has been exposed and is completely useless. The TJI 210 joists are in good shape, but they are spaced too far apart. The block foundation is in great shape and can be used immediately. I plan to strip the old subfloor and joists and just start over.

The question is this. Have any of you ever enlarged the footprint of a block foundation by adding piers on one end? Would John's plans be customizable in this way? I just feel like the 20x20 (20x24 with cantilever) will not be quite big enough for our needs.

The county inspector said that I can do this but would need some sort of structural engineer drawings to proceed since this is not covered in the IRC2006 specs. I was hoping John's plans could fulfill this need, but am not sure.  Otherwise, I can just frame up on the existing foundation and call it good.

Any input is much appreciated!

Jonathan

[MountainDon]

   shmily524

What is the spacing on the TJI's? Maybe you can use them and simply add in between them?

A plan can be lengthened easily for walls, roof etc.

It's possible that it may cost more to get an engineered pier extension approved than it would be to build an extra section of block walls on poured concrete foundations. 

Or build it as a 20x20, but draw your floor plan so you could add an extra room or two if you really need the space after you try the 20x20.

[shmily524]

Here are a couple pics. The model is just my first attempt at understanding what it would look like. Many changes already from that point.





Thanks Don. Good suggestion on extending the block. The TJIs are 24" o.c. spanning 20 feet.

[MountainDon]

So if you put in another, making them 12" OC you would have a nice stiff MTL, IF those TJI's are sized right for the span.

The only problem I see with that idea is if you are going to insulate the floor. Batts don't come for 12" OC.

I'd cost out the options.

You can use the joist calculator HERE to check things out.

[shmily524]

So here is another issue I am unsure about. The access to the crawlspace cannot be correct. THere is just a 2x6 laid flat over the opening, and the tji is sitting on that. Surely that is not strong enough? Here is another pic to show what I mean. Do I need to turn the joists the other way? That table should help on the oc. question. Thanks!

[rwanders]

I would either turn the joists or replace the flat 2x6 with a proper header. Also, don't mix dimensional lumber joists with TJIs----use all TJIs or all dimensional joists--the TJIs are much superior and 16" OC would be sufficient. I used the same in a 24x24 with 3/4 OSB T&G and have a rock solid floor.

[shmily524]

So how do I put in a proper header and still cantilever out? attach the header to the block?

Agreed on the dimensional mixed with tji. I am planning to use a timberstrand rim board instead of the current 2x12.

[rwanders]

Replacing with header would require notching the block on each side of the opening or you might be able to place some jack studs on each side if the footer extends across the opening----attach studs to block with masonry lags (would narrow your access a little)

[rwanders]

Just an aside----I agree 20x20 makes for awkward floor plan----an extra 4' really makes for a much happier wife---and we all know 'when momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy".

[shmily524]

So did I post this in the wrong forum? Seems like I should have put it in the owner-builder.. Sorry

Don, you seem to have a good understanding of using solar. So... here are a few more 's. If you don't have time to answer, I understand.

The power company is staking my place today and will be providing an estimate shortly for putting an electric pole to my land. It looks to be in he $2k-$4k range so far. Could I put in a decent solar system for that amount? i.e. Enough power for lights, laptop, fridge, etc. I plan to use propane for tankless water heater and cooktop. Maybe even for refrigeration... Anyway, it seems like it would be a worthwhile investment to have solar if the costs were about the same.

THanks again for all our help.

RWanders, your project is awesome. Already modified a few things to match...

[glenn kangiser]

No way you can beat the grid at that rate for what you want.

That would be a very minimal solar system.  I would say at least 15K for a decent sized system doing it yourself but there are lots of variables.

[Don_P]

All depending, dropping in a header underneath like rwanders described is simplest. If you need the height doubling the joists with solid sawn on either side, cutting off the cantilevered joist over the opening to provide room for a header above the sill and then run header joists crosswise in the overhanging area would do it. There are some details on the Ilevel site.

I joists that have been wet or over a damp space make me nervous. Look em over good. They are stiffer and offer more flexibility in some situations, they are also gone faster in a fire. Like most things its almost always about tradeoffs. Unless there is something i don't see I think I could get a stamped note for a couple of hundred to extend it. Alot of engineers are sitting at home right now too.

[glenn kangiser]

This forum is fine for general questions. 

You can also start a posting in the owner Builder section for more with the specific project name and description in the title.  Add the location or add the general location to your signature so members answering questions will have an idea of the conditions you are dealing with. 

Example -  at my location it seldom freezes.... others seldom thaw.

[sjdehner]

One further thought. I honestly think you'd get more bang for your buck installing a solar hot water heater in conjunction with an on-demand unit (gas or electric) than you would installing an enormous solar array. S.

[MountainDon]

Been away a couple days.

If I could have had the power company connect to our cabin for even $6K, I would have had to think hard about which way to go. The independence factor has to be weighed. As it was the answer for us was very easy.

One thing that could work, if your power company offers a proper cogeneration deal, id to add PV panels as your budget permits after you are connected to the grid. In some areas (NM) that can be a good deal.

[ScottA]

If I where going 100% off grid I think I'd go with a small solar array setup with batteries and a generator for dark day charging and high current needs. My w/h, stove and fridge would be propane with wood heat.