Anchor Bolts for tying in old foundation to new

[John24689]

I am going to add brick veneer, 5 1/2 feet high to the front of my home along with a 4 foot veneer wall down the side. Part of the front and side has a concrete driveway. The rest is soil. I plan on trenching out a 1'X 1' hole and pour a concrete footing for the brick. I want to secure the footing to the existing foundation which is brick in the front and concrete on the side. I am trying to determine what type of anchor bolts to use. I have seen the ones where you drill a hole and hammer in a lead insert. Then you screw in a bolt which sticks out into the footing about 6" or 8". Is there another method of anchoring the new footing to the existing footing? Is one #4 rebar enough in the new footing? What are your recommendations?
Thanks for any help. Have a great day.
John

[PEG688]

 John what I would do is drill into the existing footing / foundation about 6" to 8" , do not drill thru your foundation if your pouring this ribbon above your existing footing .  4" to 6" deep should be enough.

  Then  drive in a piece's of 1/2" rebar about 14" long.  We do this to slabs and foundation to foundation cold joints , you could use bolt's it will be more costly and IF there is that much lateral shifting you have bigger isues , MTL.

 Most times it is vertical shifting your trying to prevent not lateral seperation.

Insure your grd under the new footing is good compacted soil.  Pee ( Pea) stone bed 2' wide under your new footing might be a good idea.

What will you do with your existing footing and dwn spout drains ?

 I'd use two bars of 1/2 " (#4) rebar in your footing tied to the horiz. driven bars , which should be about  every 4'.

 Check with local bulding dept. if your getting a permit , they will have a plan for what your doing based on local condition's if any "conditions" need to be met.

Good luck , PEG  

 BTW I modified this post some what after re-reading your post , I'm  now thinking you'll be sort of hanging this footer / ledge off the side of the existing foundation ?? Is that correct?

 I'm not sure I totally like that idea , not knowing how thick the existing foundation wall is , what type it is , soil conditions , and more could change the situation totally.

 So back to a old stand by , IT DEPENDS Breakum out Glenn

[glenn kangiser]

Also if you need them secured you can brush and blow out the holes then use epoxy to fasten the rebars into the old foundation - start filling epoxy clear from the bottom of the hole- pull the gun back as it fills to keep air bubbles out---usually fill it about 1/2 full then insert the rebar with a twisting motion - the hole should be 1/8" oversize-- follow the epoxy instructions - it is pretty expensive and as PEG says - it may not be necessary.  The proper amount would be when it just squishes out at the top of the hole.

[Sassy]

 Pee stone bed 2' wide under your new footing might be a good idea.  

PEG, is that like kidney stones?  Wow, that would take a lot!   Sassy


PS Glenn made me post that!  :-/  

[PEG688]

PEA Stone ?   :-/

   Small rocks that compact thier self to 95% compaction when dumped in the hole  

[Amanda_931]

Hmm.

I thought that around here pea gravel was smallish river rock--i.e. round.

What people kept telling me was "NO on the river rock, you want the sharp edges."  for the foundation/footing.  either the next to smallest of the graded sizes, or possibly "crusher run" known in other parts of the county as "road base."

There are local differences in terminology.

[Billy Bob]

There are some regional differences, Amanda, but one of the key elements is the the idea of "stone" vs. "gravel".  In general practice "gravel" refers to a product of nature such as might come from a river bed, while "stone" indicates a product modified,(i.e., crushed), from its original form.  The pea designator mostly refers to the particle size.  As you mentioned there is pea "gravel", which  is small, rounded pebbles, or pea "stone" as PEG suggested, which is the angular, rough edged stuff.
"Pee" stone I believe is a third entity altogether.  It brings to mind an expression my father had, (where DO they get these?); 'It's gonna rain like a tall cow peeing on a flat rock'.  Crude, but highly descriptive, and an obvious candidate in the etymology of "Pee stone". [smiley=shocked.gif]
Then you get into: roadbed, process,aggregate,egg rock, riprap, traprock, &etc., etc, etc.  It's almost as interesting as the Inuit vocabulary for snow,(I think I recall it's 15 different words.)
Most of the time it's just dirt and rocks, but I think it's interesting how a whole language subset can be developed within a profession.
John, I like the program outlined by PEG and Glenn.  I would like to offer one other suggestion; as far as anchoring your rebar there are some hydraulic cement products for that purpose.  Something like that might be a halfway between the expense of epoxy, and the fact you probably don't need anything.  You mix the stuff up with water, and "push" a bunch into the hole before inserting the rebar.  As the stuff sets, it expands and holds the rebar tight.
Be cautious when drilling the holes.  I once "caught" some reinforcing in a foundation I was drilling with a 5/8" bit in a 1/2" angle drive drill motor; I'm a pretty big guy, but it whacked me around a bit before I could trigger the drill off,( an old fashioned rig with a "click on, click off" type switch.) [smiley=undecided.gif]
Brick veneer sounds great; good luck!

[John24689]

Thanks for all the good information.  If I use epoxy, what kind and where can I find it?  All I can find is in the small tubes you squeeze and it mixes as it come out.   It would take many tubes of this kind.  The new footing will be in the soil next to the existing foundation.  I have about 8' of two thick brick in the front of the house and 3 1/2" of concrete on the side of the house.  The soil has some clay mixed in it.  I will add 2" of rock/gravel or sand to the bottom of the new foundation.  I will have the new trench for the new foundation treated for termites before I add the concrete.  What about putting down plastic on top of the rock/gravel or sand before I pour the concrete?  I have found precut re-bar in 12" lengths.  I would put at least 4 or 5" in the brick and concrete existing foundation and let the rest stick out for the new concrete footing.  Then connect #5 re-bar to the ones sticking out.  This would be about 2 or 3" below the surface of the new footing.  Any other suggestions.  Thanks for the hydraulic cement suggestion.  
John

[John Raabe]

Here's a good review of Foundation Bolts and how to install them.



•  These 2" square washers are an inexpensive upgrade that will help to hold the house to the foundation under earthquake or hurricane conditions.

Here is one epoxy kit that can be used for foundation bolt embeddment in old concrete.

http://www.dynamicinternetsales.com/homeRemedy/lcr/

[glenn kangiser]

Special building Epoxy, John.  Simpson makes some called Simpson Set and other types -- I don't like it well -- runny and slow setting but engineers often recommend it and it is relatively cheap.  Home Depot etc carry it along with Simpson anchors.  Then gun is expensive -

http://loyola-1.stores.yahoo.net/edt22a.html  $65
 


http://loyola-1.stores.yahoo.net/set22.html  $27


Not a recommendation one way or the other -- just examples.

I prefer Hilti HY150 --more expensive fast setting- 5 to 15 minutes or less sometimes when hot - doesn't run much.  

A tube would probably do about 10 to 20 anchors depending on conditions - 22 ounces for Simpson -maybe less for Hilti -usually dealer item but better stores will have it.  Drill holes 1/16 to 1/8" oversize for Hilti probably 1/8" for Simpson - brush and blow for good adhesion fill from the bottom to eliminate air pockets - leave rebar long enough for proper lap --- 20 diameters I think on most-- twist when inserting -- proper amount should just come to top of hole around steel.  Follow directions with epoxy - above by me are general guidelines from my experience.