Couple of Framing Things

[spinnm]

Need a little brain storming if y'all don't mind.

1.  We're using Space Truss in the shop.  Floor truss for the loft.  Think Mezzanine in a red iron building.  Mfg by TrussWal.  Dist by Boise Cascade.  Never used b4.  Basically an engineered truss with metal webbing.  Can span with 11 1/4" on 24" centers.  Their engineers say that all we need are some Simpson BT30s (x-crossed metal strapping) at the ends only.  Haven't seen them yet, but we're thinking maybe that's not enough.  Any opinions?  We're spanning a little shy of 19'.

2.  We're building a wing wall that will be about 6' tall and 4' long.  Unsupported at the open end.  We're thinking that we might get some movement.  Got any tricks for that?  I really don't want a post at the end....but I don't want it to move around either.

whadyathink?

[peg_688]

 Shelly MTL it will be fine if a eng. sez it good , it will be . Most pipe truss's Ive worked with have had pretty wide flanges , and they where quite stiff both in flex and deflection.  Once the floor is sheeted that will add to it all stiffening the whole system.  


On the pony type wall could you us a post going down along side a joist ?  You could then block the snot out of the joist bays in that area stiffing the post using the floor system, then sheet one side of the wall to stiffen for rack .  Pick a nice streight dry post, thur bolt it where(IF) possible

Hope it helps , good luck PEG  

[glenn-k]

Seems the allowable span and the span you are spanning may not be right.

I don't see any problem as long as their engineers say that is what to do.  I commonly work with big steel trusses of similar design to the wood ones - usually only a couple of small bolts or welds at the end.  Pay attention to the amount they say should bear and any side bracing requirements before you get on top of the trusses as they can flop over until stabilized as directed by the engineer.

Spacejoist Details

Can you hide a metal post with a base plate anchored with concrete anchors inside the wall --something like 2 or 4  1/2" anchors embeded about 3 to 4 inches in the concrete - bolt 2x material to the post then standard framing from there  or just chip or drill a hole throught the concrete and set the post in non-shrink grout where you want it then hide it in the wall.  First cut the edges of the hole with a diamond or abrasive blade then knock it out with a rotohammer or air chisel etc.  A bit of welding and drilling steel would be required.

[spinnm]

Forgot that part Glenn.  Can't you see what I'm thinking? :-/  Can't do a rim joist on 3 sides.  No way to nail it.  That's why we talked to the engineers and got the info about the BT30s.  Since they wanted to SELL us something, I took it with a grain of salt and threw it out to you all.

And, yes, you can span that distance if you buy the expensive, 420 series, which we did.  We were going to do it with 2x12s to get less depth than a normal truss, but this seemed much easier for the ducting and ele.....any waaayyy more expensive.  Only money.

Thanks for the idea about the blocking PEG.