Another Reloading Press Question for the Reloaders Among Us

[MountainDon]

My son and I are getting close to decision time on a press/kit. I'm leaving most of the leg work on this up to him.

He gave me his short list of three... 2 basically the same except or the scale I think.

RCBS Rock Chucker Master Reloading Kit  
https://www.grafs.com/product/267168 which he can get for $258.99 with his C&R discount.

Lyman Crusher Expert Kit
1.  https://www.grafs.com/product/264753  for $251.99 with his C&R discount.

or
2.  https://www.grafs.com/product/264756  for $282.99 with his C&R discount. (electronic scale)


To that we'd add die sets: .223,  .308,  .30-06,  .45LC,  .45ACP, .45-70 and 454 Casull. To begin with.  

Bullet casting for the 45's are on my short list as well.

ALSO... are any particular brand of dies better than others, or a better value? Do they interchange? See I'm a novice at this reloading. 

[NM_Shooter]

OK.. here comes a bunch of unsolicited advice....

Don, any of the presses you named are good.  But I don't think I would buy a Lee press over an RCBS or Lyman.  The press you will use forever.  Don't cheap out on that one.

I would also avoid the electronic scale, as sexy as they seem. 

Here's why:

1)  The balance actually has better resolution.  You can tell when the beam is off by 0.05grns or better.  The linearity of the beam is better.
2)  When a balance scale breaks, you know it.  They either completely work or they don't.  Not so with an electronic version.
3)  Subtle things can go wrong with the electronic scale (digit failure)
4)  No batteries required with the balance. 

There are some fancy options for automatically throwing a set amount of powder with an electronic balance, but I prefer the safety of measuring my own. 

Get a powder trickler for helping tweak your loads for the higher performance stuff.

Here in NM,  the plastic funnels tend to build up static and make powder cling.  Get a metal funnel or a static dissipative plastic.  Scratch that.. stick to metal.

The RCBS 505 is an exceptional scale.  If I recall, it has an agate bearing surface (or used to).  No matter what scale you get, Borrow somebody else's scale (mine?) and use it to do a calibration check.  Weigh a bunch of small objects, up to 100grns or so on both scales.  Record the weight of those objects, and save them for later checks.

Only buy carbide dies for pistol calibers.  It will save you a ton of time.  If not doing competitive shooting, there are really no benefits to spending lots of $$$ on dies.  Lee dies are fine for pistol.  I like RCBS for most of my reloading, and I use Redding competition for my competition stuff.

You can get a carbide button for your depriming rod for rifle calibers, which keeps you from having to lube the inside of the neck.

Don't use spray lube like "One Shot" for anything larger than .223.  It just does not work as well as the RCBS grease pad. 

Be careful when resizing bottle neck cartridges.  Don't push the shoulder back too far or you risk case failure.  Consider getting case gauges to keep an eye on headspace issues.  Beware ultra light loads.  They can generate excessive pressures.  Never tumble assembled ammo after reloading (some folks do this) as the powder breaks into smaller pcs and the burn rate and pressure goes way up. 

Consider getting a Stony Point Cartridge comparator for the rounds you will be reloading.  They also make a throat measurement tool for measuring your chamber depth.

BTW... I use an RCBS handheld primer seater, and the new seater won't work with old shell holders.  I seem to wear out priming tools like crazy. 

A flash hole deburring tool is handy to have, and you will need a neck chamfering tool eventually too.

Most reloading mfg have a lifetime warranty on everything.  Never throw out a broken anything.  Just send it back to them and most will replace free of charge.

Get a good powder measure, and learn to use it in a consistent fashion.  I tap twice on the upstroke and twice on the dump to get consistent charges.  I don't approach max loads without weighing every one.  BTW... don't count on max loads in the book being right.  Work everything up, and watch the primer for signs of excessive pressure.  I also immediately seat a bullet after throwing each charge.  Some folks like to charge a ton of cases and then seat.  I prefer to avoid the possibility of a double charge.

Eventually get an inertial bullet puller.  One time or another you are going to want to pull a bullet. 

Clean your dies after using them.

I'm sure there is more and you'll get some good feedback here.  Let me know if you want a hand setting stuff up.  It is not too bad to figure out on your own, but I'd be happy to help corrupt you guys.

[NM_Shooter]

I got way too anal with that last post.  Don't let me scare you off.  Tons of ammo has been loaded with the Lee handloader kit.  It can be as simple or as complex as you want.

[peternap]

I got way too anal with that last post.  Don't let me scare you off.  Tons of ammo has been loaded with the Lee handloader kit.  It can be as simple or as complex as you want.

This is a tough one Don.

First, everything NM just said i correct, but we differ on some points, Before I start, I have a lot of reloading equipent including a number of presses and RCBS dies, Lee Dies and die I made or had made.

There are two biggies in loading, the press and the scale.

The RCBS Rockchucker is generally considered the king and for good reason. It was created as a swaging tool and built that way...It has slipped ever so little over the years though and the quality and strength are NO better than the Lee Cast press. Not the aluminum ones, the cast. The Lee is a better value also.

The scale. I have Lyman scales, Redding scales, Lee scales and RCBS scales. I also have an RCBS electronic scale. I find myself using the electronic scale more because I just turn it on, calibrate it and use it.  Beam scales should be disassembled after use unless it's one with a rest control that takes the pressure off of the knife bearing.

I ALSO DON'T LIKE THE ELECTRONIC. I don't fully trust it and it's slow as molasses. If I were to only have one scale, it would be the RCBS 10 series scale. It will do everything you want and your grand kids will be using it when they are old.

I don't like powder dispenser's but if you get one, Don't get a Lee. The RCBS are pretty good and the Lyman better. All need to be checked often with your scale.

Lee dies are fine and I only buy RCBS when I run across them used at good prices. I find them at gunshows for 5 bucks sometimes.

I use a Lee hand primer also. I don't think I have the priming arm on any of my presses. They're in a drawer. The hand primers wear out, are easy to fix and inexpensive to buy. The auto prime won't auto feed Federal primers which are mostly what I find these days. They have to be fed one at a time.

Bullet molds. I have a bunch of Lee molds. They are inexpensive, as a rule accurate and ALL LEE MOLDS NEED WORK. Caster have a name for it. Leementing. They are just things to be done to make them better. I use them for bullets I might want to use or don't use much or to make other designs. I changed a 7.5 mm mold last week to make 30 cal paper patch or knurled bullets.

Rcbs or Lyman dies cost twice as much but are steel and built for a lifetime. The handles are expensive but Lee 6 cavity handles cost 12.00 and fit everything...and are very nice.

For your guide gun, you will need to cast a .460 bullet because of the Micro Groove rifling. That means you will have to lap the mold some. Easier on the aluminum Lee but again, your grand kids will use the Lyman or RCBS (and a couple of other manufacturers}

Now you have my most inner feelings on reloading equipment,

[peternap]

Oh...sizing lube. The traditional lubes for the pads are really only STP.
My favorite lube is Anhydrous Lanolin and I just rub the case with a little of it on my fingers.

[OlJarhead]

I have a Rock Chucker and beleive for the novice it is the best way to go -- one stage at a time.

I've used a Dillan and it's great but more for the master reloader I think.

Electronic scales work but after 3 my father-in-law settled on the RCBS becuase it was the only one that seemed to always work right.

Manual scales never have the trouble electronic ones do.

I like the RCBS dies myself but the LEE dies are fine too -- my advice?  Buy a rock chucker and start slow.

Also, get carbide dies when you can.

Build a STRONG bench.

[NM_Shooter]

Ditto on the start slow.

BTW, I like my vibratory case cleaner.  But to save media I wash my brass first in a light application of simple green, and rinse.  Then I stick it in a mesh bag in the sun to dry.  Gets a lot of the initial crap off the brass.

Sportsmans Warehouse has the best deal on corn media I've found.  I think it is $25 or so for a 5 gallon bucket.  I like corn better than walnut, as it seems like walnut makes too much dust.

After tumbling, be careful when separating.  There's lead in the primer residue (lead fulminate?) 

[Windpower]

I can't argue with any points made here

RCBS   good

carbide dies are well worth the extra cost



you might want to consider a case trimmer

I have a little hand cranked version  like this one from Lyman