Concrete work tops....best method ?

Started by UK4X4, March 09, 2015, 07:54:41 AM

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UK4X4

I'm concidering a concrete worktop for my yet to be built kitchen..for a couple of these reasons

Robust
Hardwearing
Renters can't damage it
Cost

So theres the mold and flip over method using formica

and the make in place and attempt to get it smooth method

Both would need diamond polishing , just one would be more work than the other to get a smooth surface

Who's tried it ? happy with the results ?

hell no just go spend the extra on granite...--use wood and some bartop resin was another idea

Wife wants a country-robust-simple design kitchen think more shaker and slab wood than ornate and floral prints

My kitchen would be aproximately 4off 3ft lengths
1off 3 ft length with a hob cutout
1off  10ft bar top



tommytebco

If you make it, make two!! It's an artsy craftsy process. The first one will have proof of your learning curve.

I made a table top in the driveway 20 some years ago. After trowling it off, it started to rain. I didn't know about the vibrator to raise the fines. etc etc.

It never ceases to function,  but it's downright homely.


hpinson

I think a key part of the process is using a thumper to get the bubbles all out early on.  I used to do concrete mold work, and if you did not do that well, the piece was lost.  This could be a simple as wacking the sides of the mold with a 2x4, but you can also rent them I expect. Proper consistency of the concrete was also darned important. The Formica/ flip method sound like a better approach to getting a smooth top surface, and is what I have seen in the various online tutorials.  Formica on the sides as well! Troweling a completely smooth surface seems like it would be an art.  I don't think there is any way around doing a few for sacrifice.   The edges need to be trimmed with a router too.

Done well it can be a thing of beauty - especially if the concrete is attractively stained.

If you do it, can you document it or maybe keep us posted here. I've been considering this for several counters that need replacement.


flyingvan

I've done a few---both methods.  The form and flip method is the way to go if you can handle moving the weight.  (My outdoor counter took a 90 degree turn and was way too big so it got formed in place).  Pick up Fu Tung Cheng's book on concete countertops if you haven't already.
Here's a re-post of a smaller project (great way to start)


   Like you mentioned, the main part of the form is melamine.  The sides are wrapped loosely in visqueen---I wanted some smooth wrinkles.  The corners have a bead of silicone caulk  to round over the edges.  The rebar and anchor bolts are pre-set.



   Don't mix your concrete too wet---that's probably the biggest cause of problems.  Water will puddle in the form and it will also weaken the concrete.  Use a water reducing product and poly fibers to eliminate the little cracks.  Color as you see fit, but if it's something other than earth tones start with white concrete.



   Figure out a way to vibrate the whole thing.  My forms were blocked a little off the floor and I took the blade off my sawzall and it shook out all the bubbles.  LET IT CURE for a few days at least.

This little hearth weighs 400 pounds.  You really don't have to go this thick.
Find what you love and let it kill you.