Author Topic: radiant heat and 2x6 decking  (Read 5170 times)

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  • Guest
radiant heat and 2x6 decking
« on: February 28, 2007, 06:53:27 PM »
 i would like to put radiant floor heating in a 2x6  tongue and groove floor in my VC. would this be foolish because i here these boards shrink quite a bit and cupping could be a concern. i have seen some people who have first day cottages routed a groove to accomodate the tubing. would this promote even more cupping?. I am using enginneered joists and was considering routing a groove in the top of them before i put the floor down. then i wouldnt need many clamps to hold the tubing. is a 1 1/2  inch thick  floor too thick  to enjoy the benefits of radiant heat.I am looking for any feedback or ideas cause  i love the look of the barn-decked floor ?


  • Guest
Re: radiant heat and 2x6 decking
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2007, 07:36:23 PM »
Rather than all that time and work routing that I think I would just spring for the pressed aluminum sheet strips that go under the floor - nail them on and be done with it.   There is more info on this forum.  Do a search using the Search link to the right of the words Design Build Forum above - not the one on the menu line with the spyglass.

Thicker wood heats slower and cools slower.  Insulation is necessary under the tubing between the joists to keep the heat in also.

Here is one site that mentions it.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2007, 07:39:13 PM by glenn-k »


  • Guest
Re: radiant heat and 2x6 decking
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2007, 08:00:15 PM »
You [highlight]SHOULD NOT [/highlight]rout / cut / notch the [highlight]top or bottom cord [/highlight]of any engineered "I" joist .  That's where the strenght is , read the instruction before modifing them , even holes in the webbing need to be in the "right" place and there are size of hole requirements as well.

 AS Glenn mentioned there are systems designed to mount the tubing on the under sides.

 You be advised to dry that T&G very well before installing the flooring , it will be very dry once the system is turned on , as low as 2 or 3 % MC,  so when it's installed it should be at least 6% or lower or it will shrink up to open gaps between the boards.

  If it a seasonal cabin , it would be a poor choice of heating , and the flooring will be aways moving if it's unheated part of the year.    


  • Guest
Re: radiant heat and 2x6 decking
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2007, 09:16:19 PM »
I would not do radiant floor heat in a beam and deck floor. Especially in the upper level of a small open house like the Victoria Cottage. A small wall heater (electric or hot water) should meet all the "chill chasing" needed as an upper floor room with a beam and deck floor will be very close to the downstairs temperature under normal operating conditions.

Save the radiant floor heat for the main floor. You can layout the coils yourself on the standard subfloor and then cover it with Gypcrete or lightweight concrete. (You may want to add an extra plate to exterior and interior walls to get nailing for the wall finish).

Get help with the manifolds, controls and slab.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2007, 09:22:22 PM by jraabe »


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