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41
General Forum / Can I change the Little House plans to 16x24?
« Last post by maggiethecat on January 08, 2022, 11:53:01 PM »
Hi everyone, I was wondering if we could build the 14x24 little house as 16x24. Will this be alright? Thanks in advance!
42
Referral Links / Re: Wall Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on January 07, 2022, 07:22:40 AM »
It's that time of year again where I look back and analyze what has been accomplished with the plugins over the past year and then try to formulate a plan moving forward.  It has been a very busy year, especially for the Wall plugin.  The number of updates or versions released for each plugin in 2021 was:

Wall Plugin:  118
Truss Plugin:  29
Foundation Plugin: 19
Electrical Plugin: 7

Looking back through my records only 2018 was a busier year for the Wall plugin, but overall 2021 has probably been my most productive year yet.  Not sure if I can keep up this pace forever but I will continue to try.

In my mind the Wall plugin still has a few items that need attention and some of those are actually quite large items (ie. wall sandwich presets) however compared with the other plugins it is quite far along.  I think this year I need to spend some more time on the other three plugins and bring them more inline with the capabilities of the Wall plugin, especially the Truss plugin.

With the Foundation plugin I would like to enable window and door bucks as well as window well hardware in the next few weeks.  I am also wanting to add the window and door module from the Wall plugin to the Foundation plugin so that these openings in stemwall/foundation walls can be populated with hardware.

The Truss plugin has so many areas of needed improvement that it will require a completely separate discussion to lay out all of the roadmap but needless to say the complex roof module still awaits as does a completed dormer module.

With the electrical plugin there are not any really large items that need to be addressed unless I move forward with adding in more regional outlets and switches (ie. Australia, Europe etc...) However there are some nagging little issues with the placement of ceiling and floor lights and outlets that does need to be addressed.

Now on to the new stuff:

1.)  Floor Plugin:  This new plugin is long overdue and is mostly there but does need to be finished and released into the wild.  This will be a big priority over the next few months.  I am actually very excited to get this one out and start moving its further development along.

2.)  Engineering Plugin:  Not as high priority as everything else listed thus far but by far the coolest project if I can pull it off.  Adding a full calculation package to the shearwall module is very exciting and tempting right now, even though higher priorities exist.  I will do my best to only work on this plugin as time allows.

3.) Additional Help:  So at the beginning of 2020 I was seriously considering bringing on additional programming help but Covid kind of made me rethink and ultimately put those plans on hold.  Then, 2021 was possibly going to be a better year as the vaccines became available and somehow we ended the pandemic but later in the year Delta and Omicron changed the script on us again.  For now I will keep fighting the battle alone but when and if this pandemic finally comes to an end I will probably be bringing on at least one other programmer to help with the coding (possibly two).  Realistically there is only so much one man can do and my ideas tend to outstrip the number of keystrokes I can muster, so additional help is warranted and desperately needed.

From a business standpoint, 2021 was better for us than 2020 which was better than 2019 etc...  The trajectory has been upward from day one, I am still surprised at that.  I honestly thought after 2020 we would hit some sort of saturation or cap on growth but I guess I was wrong.  Eventually that will happen (not sure when), there are only so many design professionals who choose SketchUp as their weapon of choice, but I do hope to convince more people that SketchUp is the preferred choice when it comes to architectural modeling.

As always I can't help but thank all of the many users of the plugins and their valuable feedback.  Yes, I've put in the hours and many late nights and continue to do so, but without you the customers none of this would be even remotely possible.  What started out as a curiosity and then a hobby ultimately became my bread and butter.

Thank-you SketchUp for your awesome API and product and thank-you SketchUp Community.

I am looking forward to having a productive and great year in 2022 and if the stars happen to align we might be seeing some of you at Basecamp this year in Vancouver B.C. Canada.
44
Referral Links / Re: Wall Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on January 04, 2022, 01:52:42 AM »
Version 2.6.7 - 01.04.2022
- Converted the window preset system to a Hash data structure.
- Added two additional parameters for configuring window shutters: width and height.





!!! WARNING !!!
This update will require deleting and recreating any window presets. This update will not affect any other preset types (ie. walls, doors, garage doors, etc…)
45
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: extended 20x30 or 14x24
« Last post by hamrnail on January 03, 2022, 09:52:23 PM »
I see where extending building plans are ok, We purchased the plan for the 20x30 one story cottage  and plan on turning it into a 20x40 summer kitchen/ guest room/ storage area. We are in west TN. We hope to pour our slab sometime in late march. We will have a full bath and kitchen. not sure of the roof pitch but would like at least a 4/12 or 5/12 it will be open.  We built a room addition on a home we owned previously and although we are older now, hope to do much of the work on this ourselves. Been looking at some of the posts and love all the great help available. we plan on a 4'' slab with a 12'' footing all around and down the center.  hope to find some good used windows and doors to help keep the cost down. have been searching the local sawmills and will probably go with plank interior walls instead of sheetrock. will raise the walls to 9' and use 2x6 for framing 
Have used Hardi siding previousl and hope it does well in TN as we would like to use that. thanks
46
General Forum / Re: Dog damage to wooden door
« Last post by pmichelsen on January 03, 2022, 01:01:46 PM »
So the height was a problem after all, I would have needed to remove about 1" off that door, and I did not have a saw up there to do a proper job.
When I started removing the junk filler that had put, I used the sink next to the door and it was not draining.  Opened up underneath and the trap was completely clogged with dog fur.  Cleaned it all out, put it back together, and everything was leaking.  The old metal pipes were so thin they cracked and started leaking.  Changed one pipe, another one broke, decided to swap everything (45 minute drive to the hardware store get's frustrating, just replace it all) but the darn thing was still leaking.  Was running out of time before the next renter, threw the dice and a half tube of silicone at the remaining joints and it finally stopped leaking... for now.  Come spring I will have to take it all back apart, and remove the door and see if I can do a more permanent fix.  For now, I removed all of the crap filler above the handle, but below it was too thick to remove, so I added a more closely matched filler and used a touch up pen for furniture.  I know it was not an ideal solution, but I wasted so much time with the water leak I didn't have much time to deal with the door.  Renting sucks...

I have not been impressed recently with the quality of metal traps sold at the big box stores, most of the time I just go with the PVC ones assuming it's in a place that isn't visible. They too are thing, but I find they hold up and seal better than the tinfoil ones.
47
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 28 X 40 California Redwoods
« Last post by pmichelsen on January 03, 2022, 07:50:22 AM »
The water system is about 95% fixed, there is one dressler that I couldn’t quite get to seat properly, but I suspect is will close up on its own. I had forgotten it was even there until I started working, I also didn’t realize there was never a shut-off install on the outlet from the tank. With no shut-off it made my work a lot colder, as I was fighting back 4500 gallons of water while trying to get all of the connections to seal up. My goal was to add the piece of flex in line on the intake side, there is a decent amount of vibration with the pump and it had disfigured the sch 80 so it was sucking air.

I did verify that I have a sch 80 2” ball valve on hand, so over the summer (when it’s a bit warmer) I’ll dive into the tank and plug the outlet so that I can remove the piping, install a shut-off, and get rid of the dressler. I imagine there was a leak years ago and with no shut-off the dressler was the only option. Lots of band aid repairs over the years fixing the system “good enough”, it’s taken a while to find all of these are remove them.

But we did make it to the river every day to throw rocks and just be out in nature. I hope my kids take to the place the way I did, but I’m going to try to not force it on them. I introduced my daughter to sparklers on NYE and I shot off some pyro-gyros, they scared her a little bit.

All in all a good weekend, though it was 38 degrees in the cabin when we arrived.

The water system:



New flex installed ($220 in fitting right there):



The dresser that was giving me grief:



48
General Forum / Re: Roof Ridge Connections
« Last post by niamul21 on January 03, 2022, 12:34:40 AM »
In the interest of explaining the correct way to frame a ridge board roof for those interested, I thought it might be a good idea to post what the codebook asks and try to explain a little bit about the reasons why.

For those wanting to read along this is in chapter 8, R802.3 Framing Details.
https://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Virginia/Residential/PDFs/Chapter%208_Roof-Ceiling%20Construction.pdf
Rafters shall be framed to ridge board or to each other with a gusset plate as a tie.
The top ends of a rafter need to be attached to a ridge board OR if there is no ridge board they can be connected directly to each other with a plate across both faces of the joint, think about how a truss is built for that connection.
Ridge board shall be at least 1" nominal thickness and not less in depth than the cut end of the rafter
A ridge board is typically 2x material but it is perfectly ok to use 1x (3/4") material. A ridgeboard is not a beam, it is simply something to nail the rafters to. The ridgeboard needs to be the full height of the plumb cut to give full bearing to the rafter. This is to prevent the possibility of splitting of an unsupported end. I have seen a 2x12 rafter split and fail when the split began at a gap at the unsupported bottom edge and followed sloping grain till it ran out at the top edge some feet away. In that case the lumber grader had passed a marginal timber and the carpenter failed to provide a fail safe.

That section goes on to discuss valleys, hips and low slopes.

To continue discussing the top end of the rafter I'm going to bounce to the end of the next section R802.3.1
Collar ties or ridge straps to prevent wind uplift shall be connected in the upper third of the attic space. Collar ties shall be a minimum of 1x4 inch nominal and shall be spaced not more than 4' on center
This is a fairly recent addition to the codes in the wake of high wind roof failures. If you remember the news footage of roofs unzipping at the ridge and both halves flying through the air, this little bit would have prevented that embarrasement. Under the ridge, in the upper third, a 1x4 is connected across from rafter to rafter OR a metal strap is connected over the ridge from rafter to rafter to prevent the top connection from blowing apart if wind either gets inside or a very high wind blows across the roof trying to lift it apart. This locks the ridge connections together. Not required in all areas, sure is easy insurance to install.

Stepping back in the last section it discusses the bottom connection;
Ceiling joists and rafters shall be nailed to each other and the rafter shall be nailed to the top wall plate. Ceiling joists shall be continuous or securely joined where they meet over interior partitions and are nailed to adjacent rafters to provide a continuous tie across the building
I left out the details here and those are important, please go back and read this section before building. The intent of this section is that the bottoms of the rafters need to be well tied to each other across the building to prevent them from spreading.

Where ceiling joists or rafter ties are not provided, the ridge formed by these rafters shall be supported by a wall or girder designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice
If the rafter feet cannot be tied to prevent spreading then the rafters should be hung from the top end. A load bearing wall works or a ridge beam (as opposed to a ridge board). If a beam is used it needs to be sized to support the roof load. Where a ridgeboard carries no load a ridge beam supports half the weight of the roof. This distinction is important, make sure you understand it before omitting ceiling joists or rafter ties.

Hope this helps

I start understanding the things here.
49
Referral Links / Re: Wall Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on January 01, 2022, 08:48:56 PM »
50
General Forum / Re: Dog damage to wooden door
« Last post by MountainDon on December 31, 2021, 05:38:11 PM »
Best of good fortune.

I/we have grown weary of renting. 25 years worth. We have one long-term rental condo left. We hope to sell to that tenant in spring. But one way or another it will be sold.

Happy New Year and may the next one be good.
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