Interior wall raising/joining

[MarkAndDebbie]

I have a roof!

Before I (and my roofing help) put the roof on I put the loft floor joists on to keep the walls from spreading. Now I need to put up the interior walls.

In the Wagner framing book, he has you put them up and lap the cap-plate. Since my interior walls will be shorter (8' interior - 10' exterior) I can't do that. I have seen several ways to tie the interior wall to the exterior - just toe-nail the first interior stud to the top and bottom plates; put in 2 extra studs and one flat in-between; etc. But I am having trouble thinking about how to get additional studs in behind my ledger in the exterior wall (poor planing not to have them in originally). I could run them up only 8' to the bottom of the ledger.

1. How much of the extra studs in structural, and how much just to attach wallboard. Any problem running them up only 8' (not much to attach them to at the top)?

Problem number two is tipping them up. Some places say just to tip them up, but I have enough geometry to know that will be hard I've also seen people nail the top and bottom plates and then toe-nail in the interior studs. I thought about doing a double top plate as well - tip it up with one top plate on to give it some room (probably enough for a 2x4 wall, but not a 2x6). Then tap a second top plate in the gap between the joist and the first top plate. Or tip up walls perpendicular to the joists (the hard ones) and then pivot 90 degrees - maybe leaving them an 1/8 short and shim them.

2. What are others doing? What's the best/easiest way?

Thanks!

P.S. The other possible advantage of the double top plate is the ability to lap the interior walls at the corners where two interior walls meet.

[MarkAndDebbie]

goochi goochi goo 

I'm leaning toward the double top-plate method to tie stuff together.

[PEG688]

So you've framed your self into a corner eh


  So of your questions are hard to figure out.

  As for backing in the stud bays where you need to attach the interior wall first stud you could just ladder block the bays (cross ways blocking that looks like a ladder) do then every 16" OC from the floor up.  The top of the wall , the interior wall , make sure you split that ladder block so it becomes a sheet rock backer as well as a nailing point for the top of the wall.  Another thought on that is put the block so it's flush with the top of the sub-plate ( the lower of the two top plates ) This would allow the "real" top plate to stick past 1 1/2" so you could nail down into that ladder block. A slightly better tie point.

You should use double top plates yes.

On standing them up generally you have to make sure they are the right height , before you force a joist up.

But once your sure the wall is the exact height the way to stand them is tilt up the wall so the top ends up very close to where it needs to be , engage the ceiling first then drive the bottom over to your snapped lines on the floor.

Once it's up right you can sledge hammer it around the last little bit. You may have to just toe nail the top plates as best you can. Generally the interior walls are up and you frame over them.

You've just made it a bit harder on yourself .


G/L PEG



   
   

[MarkAndDebbie]

So you've framed your self into a corner eh

or rather 'out' of a corner 

Thanks PEG!

Hopefully this will serve as warning for others as well ... must plan entire process before picking up hammer